Eldorado Canyon vs. Lumpy Ridge

We're heading to Colorado on Monday for a few days. We're interested in either Eldorado or Lumpy - is either better in early August?
We're 5.7-8 climbers, so any great "must do climbs"?
How about camping areas?

Lumpy is better in August with closer camping in RMNP. If it is a hot day, get an early start and climb the classic 7s on the Left Book before the sun hits it at appx 11.

There are lots of 6s, 7s and 8s. Check out Batman Pinnacle, Batman Rock, and the Pear.

Two 7s and 8s that should be at the top of your list are Kors Flake and Pear Buttress. Be prepared however for Kors Flake has a long off width that ideally needs big gear and Pear Butress has a 20' unprotected start with a bad landing.

The temps are hot as balls in Eldo right now. Lumpy will be much more comfortable temperature wise.

Lumpy has still been hot but if you get an early start it's not so bad... or maybe you'll luck out and we'll get a break w/ the afternoon thunderstorms and then you can head up to the Park.

Lumpy is the way to go this time of year although both should be doable depending.

Pear Buttress***(5.8) on the book, classic as it gets and if you look at the runout start and don't want to lead it, you can walk around the detached pillar on the left and get to the top of the 1st left facing dihedral.

Kors Flake(5.7) I would say don't be fooled by the 5.7 rating on it. It is a serious climb not to be taken lightly. I would send you on pear buttress before that.

Melvins wheel**(5.8+)3pitch never done the 3rd pitch chimney but the 1st 2 pitches are great.

Osiris(5.7)4pitch*** The 1st pitch is harder (offwidth) than it looks from the ground but this is one of the longest and best route of its grade at Lumpy.

Batman and Robin(5.6) not a bad rout and it ends on a pinnacle but id do the classics on the left book before this as the climbing is not that memorable.

Left book is a good start to the climbing at lumpy(white whale, hiatus, the dog) but be careful not to spend all your time there. I see it as a good place to go to get acquainted but move on to the real Lumpy classics.

As far as camping goes, there are a few good areas you can go that are free and not in the park. They are not publicized and many people don't know about them so PM me if you are interested in hearing about them (closer and less crowded than Johny or Pierson park).

Adam

If you do go to Eldo, you hit it early in teh AM and almost everything is in the shade. By afternoon, pickin's are slim.

you'll also want to hit lumpy early as most of it is south facing. nothing like climbing slabby routes when the sun is beating on you (and your feet) like a baseball bat. there are a handful of good lumpy routes on west facing walls in small alcoves. worth doing some homework ahead of time to try to maximize your day.

After climbing Batman and Robin wind your way up and right to climb Hand Over Hand, a beautiful 1 1/2 pitch 5.7 on Batman Rock.

I'll add that the pear at lumpy has a very mellow approach compared to pretty much all the other formations. its about 1/3 the vertical gain to the base of the climbs. La Chaim into Magical Chrome Plated is a sweet 3-5 pitcher at 5.7 there. Kors flake is sweet (be ready for the wideness tho!), but damn, that approach. Good luck getting up and off that thing before its hot hot hot/lightninging on you.

Eldo is fantastic right now if you go early. like parking lot by 6:30, then hit west ridge/rincon/Peanuts and you can climb till noon in the shade. Gambit, Long John Wall, Vershnidung,

have fun!

Maybe give Sharkstooth a shot -- should be cooler up there, and it's within your range.