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Climbing areas near Fort Bragg, NC

Original Post
Erik Campos · · Fort Bragg, NC · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 405

I will be stationed at Fort Bragg, NC next month and was wondering where is the closes places to climb, gym and outdoors.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Fayetteville has a surprisingly psyched climbing community. There is at least two gyms that I know of, and a group that seems to try and get outside as often as possible.

Closest climbing area is Moore's Wall, and it's a good one.

MP.com has a great database of climbing for NC.

Erik Campos · · Fort Bragg, NC · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 405

I was looking on MP.com and I didn't see too many sport routes in NC, can someone please point me in the right direction.

-Erik

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

The best sport climbing in NC is at the New! There are some sport climbs here and there, especially if you can climb 5.12 and up. There are a bunch at Pilot, some at Hawksbill, some at the Dump, a few at Moores...I have heard there are some in Linville that don't yet have a guide. Unfortunately, Sauratown is closed, and that had the highest concentration of sport climbing in the state. Basically, though, if you are looking for sport climbing, you are in the wrong place. There is fantastic climbing, but you'll have to place some gear.

Erik Campos · · Fort Bragg, NC · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 405

Thanks CS! Im getting stationed in Fort Bragg, NC and wanted some insight on the state. Im moving from California where I have been sport climbing, I guess now I would have to start investing in more gear...

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

It really is worth learning to trad climb, and NC is a great place to do it. There are A LOT of quality lines in NC that go between 5.5 and 5.8. I wouldn't call a 5.8 a "beginner route" in NC but if you've done some sport climbing you'll probably get there a lot faster than true beginner climbers.

Erik Campos · · Fort Bragg, NC · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 405

Thanks for the info Ryan. I'm gonna have to start somewhere. Do I really need doubles of every cam and stopper out there?

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

You definitely don't need doubles of everything. My "standard" rack that works for most trad routes I've climbed in NC:

Single set of stoppers
Doubles of Blue and Yellow TCU, single orange
Single 0.5, 0.75 Camalot
Double #1 and #2 Camalot
Single #3 Camalot

When I started, I was able to get by on single pitch (Moore's) and on bolted anchors (Table Rock) with just singles through that entire range.

Tricams are a good cheap way to get doubles in certain sizes around here.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

You'll add more gear as you climb more, but I climbed plenty of pitches in NC with the following:

Blue-Orange TCUs
.5-3 BD Camalots
Single set of ABC Huevo Stoppers

You'll want to get some shoulder length slings, but you can also use sport draws when rope drag is not an issue. I'll be home in a week or so and go through my box and sell you some used gear to get you started.

Ryan.Tyler.Williams@gmail.com

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Oh God I almost forgot about tricams! Learn to use them, you will thank us later!

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Speaking of selling used gear, I've got some Trango Flexcams for sale. #2-4

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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