wired bliss tcus vs metolius tcus

got a set of metolius, but im digging the fact that the wired bliss use a softer metal, so, which would you carry? also, how do the sizes/ranges compare?

Have you considered the RockEmpire equivalents? Hate to throw another one into your list of possibilities but I love my little 4pc set of Micro Robots . I think the set I have is the .25 up to a 1 and they get more use than anything else on my rack. Soft, place incredibly well, big footprint, don't walk much (stiff springs), clean well, durable, on and on..

I just recently bought some Wired Bliss and have been really impressed with the quality and feel of them. I used them all of last week in the Utah desert and will be buying more soon.

jacob, did your wired bliss cams come slung with dyneema or nylon? their site shows pics of both, just curious,

daryl, not really digging the rockempire for some reason

bump for an answer on the dyneema or nylon question... either way, I am going to get a set of Wired Bliss tcu's really soon.

yeah im def curious too, it seems that the wired bliss cams have just a litttttle bit more range than the metolius, though they are a little bit heavier, probably not really noticeable though, the .75 wb tcu is 2.6 oz, with a range of .60-.89, whereas the #2 met. is 2 oz with a range of .62-.89

curious as to if the sling will help reduce the weight any....

I Love my Wired Bliss cams! Just be aware that their customer service leaves allot to be desired and their shipping is VERY VERY slow! took 7 weeks to get my order. But I guess it was worth the wait.

Wb just started up again. By now they should be up and running more smothly so shipping shouldnt take more than two weeks

i think the lighter weight and cam stops on the met. tcus make the decision easy

They are slung with nylon. I had a great experience with them as far as customer service. The owner got back to me within a day or so on emails and even looked up what sizes of the WB would fill in the gaps on my BD's. I have a set of metolious TCU's and power cams also and find them very comparable, but personally prefer the softer metal of the WB's.

a climbing partner of mine has a few original WB tcu's, they still are in fantastic shape and I love the soft metal lobes. really high quality and well made, still I think you should get a mix of WB and metolious mastercams. both are good, but the 4 cam units give me a little more peace of mind freeclimbing (I'm a pussy) Cam stops shouldn't be a factor in your decision really, who actually places tipped out cams? and if it is tipped out I'm not trying to fall on it.

what exactly are the points of cam stops? i was always taught the only cam you can place passive are double axled cams like the c4s and dragons...

WB TCU's have rolled pin cam stops. They are just not "full strength" enabling you to place the pro passively. But as was mentioned, if you place the gear correctly, it becomes a non-issue.

Wired Bliss cams have cam stops - they are rolled pins similar to the rolled pin on a tricam. Cam stops are supposed to prevent the cam lobes from inverting, which might help if the cam is placed tipped out and also in a bottom-narrowing placement.

Wired bliss cams feel so nice in the hand. Their actions are smoother than velveeta, and I've found, in term of expansion range, that the quad cams (though they obviously don't have as MUCH range) actually work nicely as in-between sizes with a set of camalots. Although camalots tend to have very sufficient overlap.

Plus WB's are cheaper, and made in AMERKA! And the soft aluminium really enhances the confidence on any kinda rock, from chossy to polished. Don't know about metolius cause I haven't much used 'em but I deeply love my Wired Bliss cams.

froggy wrote:what exactly are the points of cam stops? i was always taught the only cam you can place passive are double axled cams like the c4s and dragons...

Not true. The metolius cam stops are rated for full strength. My then girlfriend now wife tested them once, when she placed a cam in what looked like a parallel crack and the cam then walked into a dish where it fully opened. She fell on it, and it held. If her weight had landed on those little roll pins, things might have been different.
I don't know how often dishes like the above happen, but inwardly flaring cracks aren't that rare. If the cam walks back and then opens, as long as it can't fall out the bottom, you're still protected. This makes me feel safer.

In terms of customer service, Wired Bliss recently reslung all of my old cams. They were fast, friendly, and did an excellent job.

I'm a big fan of the Wired Bliss TCU's and recently ordered another two (now owning the blue through gray). Although it has taken a little bit of time to get the cams, I'm super happy with the customer service. Just going to have to give them some leeway for being practically a startup; I'm willing to do so knowing its being made by a domestic entraprenur.

Jesse Davidson wrote: Not true. The metolius cam stops are rated for full strength. My Then girlfriend now wife tested them one, when she placed a cam in what looked like a parallel crack and the cam then walked into a dish where it fully opened. She fell on it, and it held. If her weight had landed on those little roll pins, things might have been different. I don't know how often dishes like above happen, but inwardly flaring cracks aren't that rare. If the cam walks back and then opens, as long as it can't fall out the bottom, you're still protected.

I think the lesson here is use longer slings and place better gear. If the crack narrowed to a constriction just below a cam in flaring pod in an otherwise parralel crack why wouldn't you place a nut? Or a hex? Or a tricam? I'm pretty sure they're all full strength. Or pay attention to gear placements and don't put cams in flaring pods. Instead you might want to use them in the parallel portion of the crack? Sorry but your story doesn't do anything to further the cause of having "full strength" cam stops. Cams are not stoppers and should not be used that way nor should you expect it to act as one because you (or your then gf now wife) didn't know how to place proper gear.

I have only one wired bliss cam. The action is so buttery I don't even like to use it for fear that I'm going to fall on it and put a kink in it or something. It's a thing of beauty and I will eventually be buying a full set of their TCUs. Wish they would start making offsets for my aid rack.

Yarp wrote: It's a thing of beauty and I will eventually be buying a full set of their TCUs. Wish they would start making offsets for my aid rack.

Do you think a small company like WB would take specific requests to make offsets? I know metolius will occasionally make custom gear and they're larger than WB

froggy wrote:got a set of metolius, but im digging the fact that the wired bliss use a softer metal, so, which would you carry? also, how do the sizes/ranges compare?

I'd say that unless you have a need for more cams or the cams you have are not serving your purpose, just stick with what you've got.

The Met TCU's are great. I personally value the cam stops. Nobody plans on placing bad gear, but life happens.

We all chase the magic gear wand, but the bottom line is that any advantage of the wired bliss over the Met. is situation dependant and slight...and there are situations where the met. will have a slight advantage.