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Question: Best gym rope for lead climbing

Original Post
S.Stelli · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 150

I'm looking to buy a rope just for lead climbing in the gym. I'm no gym full timer, but I'm tired of dragging my 60m lead rope around...

Anyways - I searched on MP forums for about 45 minutes and could not find a good list of gym ropes for lead climbing.

I was hoping for some of these specs:

  • Thick. Like 10.5 or something. (10.5 used to be tiny, didn't it?)
  • Durable
  • Cheap
  • Good hand/feel/clipping
  • Length 40-50m (Does any rope manufacturer make a 40m or sell by the meter?) I think a 30m might be a bit short for some of the long roof routes and such at my local gym
  • Doesn't have to be dry coated at all (indoors only)
  • Cheap

Suggestions? Thanks!
Kai Huang · · Aurora, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 105

chop your lead rope in half and get 2 gym ropes.

then buy a new lead rope for the year.

Marc Squiddo · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

Right, so if you don't feel like "retiring" a rope to gym use and buying a new one for outdoors, short ropes are available. These tend to be available sporadically though and subject to manufacturers availability.

For Example, GearExpress has them. They are all sold out now but check with them as the inventory changes often.

tinyurl.com/4m8wpgt

Otherwise, you can snag 50M ropes on the cheap. I'm way less picky with a rope I'm clipping gym draws with than those I'm placing gear, putting in my own draws on.

Also, keep the length/height of the local gym in mind. Those stretching past 50 feet can be a real bitch to lower off if you are on a sub 100 foot rope:-)

Brian Adzima · · San Francisco · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 560

No dirt, no sharp edges, and lots of belaying I would not think off getting anything over 10.2, and I would consider smaller. However, I do all my belaying with a grigri where the handling seems to improve greatly with smaller diameter ropes.

I'd also recommend trying to get something as close to the minimum length as possible. Less rope to flake out and its faster to pull threw when you want to do multiple laps without untying.

rhyang · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 620

Dunno about the 'best', but I picked up an Edelweiss Ally 10.3mm x 50m non-dry for about $80 from alssports.com with a discount code last year. Handles like a thinner rope, clips well. I also use it for short stuff at some local crags.

+1 on Gearexpress.com ... sometimes if you wait you will see great deals when places like REI blow out last year's models.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

When I built a climbing wall I bought a chunk of Sterling Jungle Gym from Gear Express. It's been good for that use, but we just TR on it.

For glacier travel and leading at (short) local crags I got a 38m piece of Fusion Nano (9.2) from them. It was so good I bought a full 60m Fusions Nano for longer stuff.

Neither of those is a good choice for you, I guess I'm just saying GearExpress shorts are awesome.

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100

Chop a 60m or 70m rope in half....plenty long for lead in a gym

Erik W · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 280

I chop my old ropes in half and use those. Store one in the closet and climb on the other; when the first starts showing serious use from all the catches, retire it and start using the second half. By the time you've gone through both, it'll be time to retire the next outdoor lead line and the rotation starts again (YMMV, I only climb at the gym during the winter months, so the ropes last a bit longer). Ask your gym what length ropes they use and if 30m will work - just to be sure, I knot the brake-end of the rope the first couple times I use it on the longer routes.

S.Stelli · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 150

Wow thanks for all the great responses! As usual the MP community comes through for me!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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