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mixed climbing in climbing shoes

Original Post
Ian Cavanaugh · · Ketchum, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 620

Why to mixed climbers use boots like the Lowa Ice Comp GTX on routes with no ice rather than regular climbing shoes. I seems like in routes such as Jason Nelson's new routes Zero to Hero. Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson used these techniques on the Hallucinogen Wall. It seems to me that if the route is completely dry why not use real shoes. People have climbed routes just as steep without tools or crampons, why the need?

Second I understand that it is wrong to dry tool on previously established free routes, but is it wrong to free climb a mixed route. And if it could be free climbed, would it then be wrong to climb it again with tools?

Just some thought, let me know what you think.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

generally the climbing shoe in a winter setting may not be effective if the face has smatterings of snow & ice; also consider the elements and taking away your insulation in a committed setting. however, people go to vail all the time in the summer to work in tools and shoes.

As well, not really mixed, but the splatte sees action on the really hard routes in the winter because the shoe friction is better, granted the faces are clean.

free climbing a mixed route, sure, why not; yes, it would continue to be climbed as a mixed climb.

Jason Nelson · · Ouray, CO · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 710

Ian, it can work pretty well to use rock shoes on drytooling routes. I've taught a number of people to mixed climb that way, especially on steep routes where you would want fruit boots (like the Lowa's), but maybe you can't afford them, or they just aren't available at the moment. I find it really helps people who know how to climb, but find all those scary spikey things a bit intimidating to wrap their head around - especially in a figure four. I find on drytooling routes the difficulty difference between rock shoes and fruit boots fluctuates some, but is essentially the same experience. Now someone may call you out on it, but screw em, your climbing experience is yours, not theirs.
As for rock climbing on drytooling routes... sure, have at it. Keep in mind that most of them are so chossy that they've been overlooked by the rock climbers for a reason. I've rock climbed a number of the mixed climbing routes in the Ouray Ice Park and had a good time. That said, I don't think I'd do anything but make a fool out of myself telling everyone the next winter that they can no longer climb the route with ice tools.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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