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mike526
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Jan 24, 2011
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schaumburg
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 0
I was wondering if anyone had suggestions as to ways to practice anchor building at home. I live in Chicago So getting to a cliff isnt always an option. I know i can practice with tree's etc in my backyard but was curious to hear other suggestions as to what they may have done to practice.
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Unboundquark
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Jan 24, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 195
Mike, Without rock it's hard to simulate gear placement for anchor construction. However a board with a bunch of screw eyes (to simluate gear placements) would allow you to practice the actual rigging of the simluated gear placements in various configurations.... cordelette, equalette, alpine equalizer, a.c.r, double loop figure eight, oppositional pieces, etc.... This would allow you some ability to evaluate various configurations for their various characteristics such as extension, redundancy, equalization, etc... It's something I suppose, better than nothing, but nothing like a real life scenario either. Hang in there... Devils Lake will be warmed up in no time! -Glenn
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bearbreeder
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Jan 24, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
if you mean non gear anchors ... for gear anchors ... find a concrete/brick building where you can do funkay stuff with cams ... underground parking lots sometimes have ones with "cracks"
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Brian Snider
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Jan 24, 2011
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NorCal
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 732
This is my anchor wall. I used some scrap angle and just drilled some holes in it to make hangers. Then used Molly bolts to attach them to the drywall. I placed them at four different locations as a gear anchor might be. I have had it for over a year or so and still have fun with it. I have literally built hundreds of anchors for rapping, belaying, setting up z pulls escaping a belay ect ect. I never gets old and is right next to the tv so when there's nothing on I play around with it. It also keeps it fresh in my mind if I don't get out for a month or so. I also use it to teach my girlfriend and hang up the rack when not in use. I would highly recommend one for an aspiring climber, get a book and practice every type of anchor and rigging until it's second nature. After awhile you'll just get smother and faster at setting up anchors. Remember climbing takes only a short while to learn but a lifetime to master. Have fun and be safe.
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Tim Stich
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Jan 24, 2011
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,526
Does your local gym not have any fake cracks?
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Matt Marino
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Jan 24, 2011
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Georgetown, MA
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 10
If you want to build gear anchors there's no replacement for spending some quality time on the ground at a local crag. But if you're like me and feel the need to build something in the middle of the night you could do something like this. I placed bolts in various places on my balcony when I was starting out. It definitely helps with the learning curve if you take some time to practice at home. Pick up a good book like Climbing Anchors (John Long and Bob Gaines) and go through it cover to cover.
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Andrew Blease
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Jan 24, 2011
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Bartlett, NH
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 470
Pick random objects around your house and build an equalized anchor off of them. It can't simulate gear placement, but it does a good job of giving you odd angles and locations to work with.
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Mark Cushman
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Jan 24, 2011
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Cumming, GA
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 975
Strategic piercings. Oh, and where is that picture of the "busty" TCU placement?
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Erik W
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Jan 24, 2011
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Santa Cruz, CA
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 280
When I was learning I used the legs on the dining table and accompanying chairs. Girth hitch slings around the legs, pick a spot on the carpet where you want the power point to be, pick a primary direction of pull, and have at it.
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Bill M
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Jan 24, 2011
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 317
Someone has to dig up the busty TCU placement photo . . . .
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Mark Cushman
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Jan 25, 2011
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Cumming, GA
· Joined Sep 2006
· Points: 975
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Tim Stich
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Jan 25, 2011
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,526
That's just going to slip in and out of there, Mark,
And that's
OK.
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JPVallone
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Jan 25, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2004
· Points: 195
Mark Cushman wrote: That Cam is way to small for that crack, I find that Offsets work really good in these types of cracks.
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Tits McGee
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Jan 25, 2011
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 260
I have my hang board mounted to a couple of 2x4s with about an inch plus in between. I can get cams and tri cams in between the boards, as well as in the pockets of my hang board and maybe a slung knob on the bigger holds on the metolius simulator. All the placements are horizontal, but I have built bomber hanging belays from them.
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-sp
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Jan 25, 2011
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East-Coast
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 75
Mark Cushman wrote: You should give a seminar.
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