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Oregon Climbing trip

Original Post
Joey Faust · · Pocatello,ID · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 300

Planning on a trip thru Oregon for 2 weeks from Pocatello, Idaho. I will have a truck and 23 ft trailer. Planning on Mtbing,climbing and surfing on the coast. Any suggestions? Smith rock is on the Agenda but any other great areas. We are trad climbers first, then sport. Also, any great sites along the way that are a must do. Leaving in July or August.
Thanks for any input.

JBroom · · anchorage, alaska · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 920

I have never been but I hear Trout Creek is rad and I would love to go. If you like cracks I would bet it's worth checking out.

Dustin Ebel · · Bend, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

I am jealous that you have the time! Here are some ideas for ya.

Check out Smith for sure. It has the largest concentration of climbing in Oregon. The lower gorge will probably be what you want most though there are some other climbs in the main area like zebra zion and Spiderman. Zebra zion has the best pitches in the park! When you go to smith check out Redpoint Climbers Supply and Eric (the owner) will send you in the right direction. Be careful of climbing in the sun. It is going to be hot at that time of year. Climb on the back side in the morning and the front side in the evening. Take a nice nap from noon to about two. Red Wall moves into the Shade at about one or twoish. Superslab is a classis over there and there are many more fun climbs If you go into the lower gorge climb in the morning and late in the day. The mid day will be extremely hot and the rock will be really greesy and bad. So early and late!

Trout Creek is also really cool. Once again stop by and ask Eric.

Some other fun areas are in the Willamette valley are the Callahan's. There is more climbing here than people think. There are a couple of different areas and is well worth the time. Though you want to be careful of bees. They seemed to be everywhere.

In the portland area there are a few places but in my opinion Ozone is the best. It is on the Washington side of the Columbia River and is an 800 ft basalt cliff band. There is a lot of different style routes from easy to hard sport and trad. I love smith but this is also an awesome place to climb. There is also a lot of adventure climbing in the Gorge if you like that. But it is true Adventure climbing. Most of the rock is slightly worse then rotten but can be a great adventure. I just climbed the Bunny Ears and DON'T recommend it but there are a few other pinnacle and areas that are worth it.

Surfing on the coast is sweet also. Make sure to have your 4/5 wetsuit. Depending on what you like to surf there are a few different areas. Gold beach has some good areas but is pretty far south. Newport has the south jetty that can be pretty sweet. Agate beach and yaquina head are more beginner spots but when raging put out some of the best waves. Both of those have good camping near by. Definitely check out Ossies surf shop they will give you some good info. They are in Newport and seem to have the best knowledge.

For Mountain biking you have to hit the Black Rock trail outside of Corvallis. It is probably one of the best trials in Oregon with different features and trails.

I hope this helps.

Reed Fee · · White Salmon WA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 155

Check out Beacon Rock State park if you are in the Gorge after Aug. 1rst. This 600' basalt monolith has some of the best trad climbing in the area. There are numerous crags scattered around Mt. Hood but none would be easy to acsess with a long trailer.

Joey Faust · · Pocatello,ID · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 300

Thanks for the beta. Can't wait to get out and climb.

Owen Darrow · · Helena, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,795

If your trad climbers first definitely check out Trout Creek, cracks galore! There is even a free downloadable guide for the area in the comments on the Trout Creek page on MP. Have a fun trip! Another thing, I was just driving back from Smith Rock to Seattle and just on the smith side of Warm Springs there looks to be quite a few big basalt columns that have not been climbed that I know of and have some serious potential, just a thought...

Joey Faust · · Pocatello,ID · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 300

Thanks for the beta Owen. Trout creek is on our tick list. Thanks again.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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