Webbing vs. Cord

Ive been in the climbing game for a few years now, and have used 1 inch tubular webbing as well as 7 and 8mm cord for various applications. Im sure this has been discussed many times before, but I would be interested in seeing some general observations about using one over the other. Webbing is surprisingly strong and is sometimes rated almost twice as much than many brands of cord (in kn). But I have also heard that cordelette is much more resistant to abrasion due to its construction. What about shock loading? I have seen videos of nylon slings breaking quite easily under the strain of factor 1 and 2 falls. Are there any dynamic properties in cord that might help with that?

This is obviously a pretty general question, but what I'm really getting after is this:

1. Which one is stronger?
2. Which is more durable?
3. Which one do YOU prefer for YOUR anchors?

To answer question #3

I use both.

1. Which one is stronger?

To answer this:

"Webbing is surprisingly strong and is sometimes rated almost twice as much than many brands of cord (in kn)."

2. Which is more durable?

Depends on how you use it. Webbing handles sharp edges a little better.

3. Which one do YOU prefer for YOUR anchors?

Generally, I prefer cord because it is easier to work with. The cord I use is sufficiently strong that the pieces in my anchor should fail first (however, NO failure SHOULD happen). However, I'll use webbing to avoid running cord over an edge without hesitating.

I use webbing for TR, cord for trad/multi. Webbing is heavier, but cheaper. Cord is lighter, but more expensive. Both are great

The pros and cons have been pretty much covered. I tend to carry cord because it is easier to deal with and doesn't bind up as much as 1 inch webbing in equalettes and such.

Use what you have handy.

One pro of webbing is that it is easier on trees. I use it to setup slacklines.

webbing is also cheaper to bail on.

Tim Pegg wrote:Webbing handles sharp edges a little better.

This is not true.

It has been tested again and again yet I still see people claiming this. The best thing for sharp edges is a STATIC line or something under/around the rope/webbing that protects it from abrasion.

If you're going to give advice on something like this make damn sure you are correct.

Let me repeat. Webbing is MUCH LESS ABRASION RESISTANT THAN ROPE. Surprisingly less abrasion resistant. It takes relatively little abrasion to saw through webbing that is under tension.

...and this question has been beaten to death on just about every mountaineering, climbing, or canyoneering site out there. I might suggest google as a research tool. Try typing in something cryptic like "webbing vs. cord" and see what comes up.

With all that said. I'll still use webbing to rig a TR as long as it's not going to be continuously loaded over a sharp edge and of course I always make sure to make it redundant.

I feel like it is all dependent in situ. Webbing is nice for fast and easy sliding X anchors or for equalizing so-so pieces. I have a 7mm cord that is dynamic, and it is super lightweight.

Trasgo wrote: This is not true. It has been tested again and again yet I still see people claiming this. The best thing for sharp edges is a STATIC line or something under/around the rope/webbing that protects it from abrasion. If you're going to give advice on something like this make damn sure you are correct. Let me repeat. Webbing is MUCH LESS ABRASION RESISTANT THAN ROPE. Surprisingly less abrasion resistant. It takes relatively little abrasion to saw through webbing that is under tension. ...and this question has been beaten to death on just about every mountaineering, climbing, or canyoneering site out there. I might suggest google as a research tool. Try typing in something cryptic like "webbing vs. cord" and see what comes up. With all that said. I'll still use webbing to rig a TR as long as it's not going to be continuously loaded over a sharp edge and of course I always make sure to make it redundant.

Abrasion and cutting over a sharp edge are two different things. I'm not surprised that webbing is less resistant to abrasion, but I'd be very surprised if it's less resistant to being cut over an edge. Can you post a link to good/interesting test results?

Tim Pegg wrote: Abrasion and cutting over a sharp edge are two different things. I'm not surprised that webbing is less resistant to abrasion, but I'd be very surprised if it's less resistant to being cut over an edge. Can you post a link to good/interesting test results?

http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Qualifying_a_Rescue_Rope.pdf

This testing is mostly focused on static or low stretch semi-dynamic ropes used in rescue systems but they do test 1" webbing and the results are not impressive when it comes to abrasion or cutting over an edge as you put it. I fail to see the distinction that you are making between the two terms but you can go ahead and continue to believe, as many climbers do, that webbing offers good sharp edge protection. It does not and this comes as no surprise to anyone who has bothered to look at what the people who manufacture the webbing have to say about the subject.