Roping up for roof work...

I'm interested in seeing what people have to say in regards to gear needed for "technical" roof work. For example, if I wanted to be roped in while replacing shingles on a roof, removing snow, etc. It seems to me like anchoring the rope securely to the apex of the roof, then rappeling in on a gri gri would be a safe, simple setup. However I'm not sure if it is necessary to have a backup like an autoblock below the gri gri or something. I guess you could just tie a knot in the rope just below the roof and call it good. Also, is it handy to have an ascender on the line for climbing back up the roof? Does anyone have experience with the best setup for this type of work? Thanks!!

I'd suggest using a Purcell prussic. Just as easy to move about (up and down the rope) as the gri gri, but won't ooze rope under load like a gri-gri. For backup, just tie in short.

use a gri gri and one ascender. Back up with a knot if you so choose. Pound 4 (or more if your scared) 16inch nails bent over the rope on the opposite side of the roofs ridge line for an anchor. Be sure you're in a joist or ridge beam not just the ply! Do it in the snow, and it's better training;)

Grigri would be the best idea, just make sure your rope is anchored right. Tying a knot in your roof would be a smart idea, but what if you are clearing snow, and you slide down the roof and off the edge and it's too slippery to jug yourself back up? I guess it's just how you manage your rope and grigri.

If this is a work operation, you'll need to comply to OSHA standards for fall protection. Climbing gear is not rated. One method I have seen is a static line with an ascender-like device. Without constant loading, I think a gri gri would be a bit sketch, but you could always just tie-off a knot. Also, there isn't much on a regular roof that would be bomber enough to rely on as a safe anchor point. Commercial roofers use a shackle that takes at least 10 nails or screws to secure.
A fall protection harness is a full body unit with the ring centered between your shoulder blades connected to the system with a shock-absorbing lanyard.

Mike Lane wrote:If this is a work operation, you'll need to comply to OSHA standards for fall protection.

Hahaha

For roof shoveling I usually run a rope from trees on either side of the house, perpendicular to the ridge, and leave about 10 ft of slack in it. That way setup is quick and I can access both sides of the roof. Make sure that if the rope runs over sharp edges like with a propanel roof to pad it with a jacket or carpet or something. Even garden hose or 1" webbing can work as a sleeve for the rope. I usually just use a grigri with a stopper knot on a bight below it near the eave. If the roof's really steep you can throw an ascender above the grigri. If no trees or vehicles or posts or railings are available you can use several long deck screws to attach a 2-by to the roof with a loop of webbing running around it, but this is pretty sketch and puts a lot of holes in the roof. Good luck, Mitch!

--Andrew

If this is for work you'll have to comply with osha as others have said. Check out sprat.org and irata.org If you're standing and not hanging and just want protection we usually use a petzl shunt otherwise it's always a two rope system. As far as tie-ins, chimneys, or any other solid part of the structure is usually used.

If you're going over the side of the roof we use an anchor on the opposite side of the house (fabricated out of steel and with removeable weight, I think it's about 900lbs loaded) Then it's a two rope system with a shunt on the safety line. Your main line we use a handle ascender and croll to ascend and a petzl ID for descent.

You can get everything you need from a roofing supply house. They sell kits called "compliance in a can". In these kits are a rope, harness, anchor, and ascender. I think they cost about $250.00.

Resurrecting this thread for a similar question--

I'm working on a tall shed with a hip roof. What if I put an anchor at both of the "vertices" and ran a rope between them with enough slack to reach the edge, like this:

In my head, this mitigates a swinging fall from the corner of the building, but it does limit my reach at those corners. Overkill? Stupid? It's just at my parents house so I don't need OSHA compliance.

Theoretically, you could anchor each end of the rope and then use two prusiks, one on each rope. That could position you along the roof wherever you wanted to be. Beware the tension created when you approach the peak, should you fall while connected that way.

tagsafety.com/library6.aspx

Last time I worked on a steep roof (at home) I simply threw the rope over the top and anchored it to a miscellaneous truck axle I had on the ground opposite of it. When I cleaned the 2nd story gutters at my folks house, I simply had my wife belay me from the opposite side of the house.

If you're replacing a large area of shingles take four feet of 2x4 and 4 standard framing nails. From a clip or a box of loose nails. Get a ladder just below where you are working and nail the 2x4 in to place. This works best when you know where the rafters are, but nailing them into modern 5/8s roof sheathing will be safe too. You can then load all the tools and shingles up there to rest on it, then use the ball of your feet to press against the 2x4 to keep you secure and to provide mobility while working. Plug the holes with a bit of tar. My preferred method. Adjust size and number of toe boards to the size of your project.

In a lot of the mountain houses here in CO there are two eyebolts that line up on every ridge rafter, and they are sunk into the ridge poles. You can then string up a rope between the two, and use a lanyard or personal anchor system to keep you at the height you want.

A bit of bitchithane(weatherproofing) and two eyebolts and a lanyard would set you up for this. Please ensure you are purchasing SS eyebolts of at least 1/2" if you do go this route. Not every bolt is the same.

I know not to put a rope in a trunk or toss it on the asphalt, but don’t many shingles have asphalt in them? Could this potentially corrode my rope?

Carter Neely wrote: I know not to put a rope in a trunk or toss it on the asphalt, but don’t many shingles have asphalt in them? Could this potentially corrode my rope?

No. The concern with placing a rope on a paved surface is that there MAY be bad stuff like battery acid there. The asphalt itself is not a concern.

roofers use this stuff hard and put it away wet. they ain't wimps like climbers... if you buy an OUSHA harness make certain it has multiple clip in points. the ones we have at work suck as they only have an anchor point in the back right between the shoulders. I can't do it myself.. Yuk!  many of the harnesses  do have multiple clip in points. 

Camp goblin

Carter Neely wrote: I know not to put a rope in a trunk or toss it on the asphalt, but don’t many shingles have asphalt in them? Could this potentially corrode my rope?

The roof is rough and will chew it up a bit, but it won't corrode it. 

Ahh I’ve found the group. I’ve deployed just about every method you guys mentioned, I run an unregulated climbing harness, with one of those “compliance ropes” and about as many red “10 screw anchors (7will hold) as I can carry to the ridge, installing steel panels requires, some thought. And I’m about to invest close to 200$ in edge protection and more carabiners, anchors, and other goodies. The ascender that comes with the compliance bucket will not ride up, you’ve got to manually depress the lever, often requiring one of your two hands, other other hand,.clamped tightly to a sheet as you ascend, you very quickly leave the ascender behind as your amigos assisting in the lift only understand to lift without letting lead man to catch up. And installing a ridge when any sort of anchor is being used, over the top to an object, or temporarily installed, both hinder the ridge cap from sitting naturally. Try maneuvering a 20’ single piece ridge on a 12/12 with slack in the rope..ahh go get a job they say. Cool tip, if you take an old pair of roofing shoes (vans are my fav) when they get retired, cut the sole off, and screw them to the tops of ladder and riggers on stabilizers, using self tap pancake head square  #2’s way more durable then those over priced Werner pads. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote: roofers use this stuff hard and put it away wet. they ain't wimps like climbers... if you buy an OUSHA harness make certain it has multiple clip in points. the ones we have at work suck as they only have an anchor point in the back right between the shoulders. I can't do it myself.. Yuk!  many of the harnesses  do have multiple clip in points. 

$30 buys you an 18” OSHA-compliant lanyard extension - clip it to your anchor point on your back, and you won’t need to awkwardly reach around to your back to clip in.

I hate  being  tied in  on roofs.  Feel so  encumbered that an  accident  might be more  likely.  We  only use the  compliance  in a bucket when  working  in high  visibility  areas,  commercial  jobs near  or in town ..  real roofers  seem to have the same system.  Compliance  in high  visibility  areas  and cowboys  out in the  country.  Those  guys are a  different  breed though and take  the  cowboy  approach way  farther than we do.  We are  Carpenters who occasionally have to do roof work. 

I spent the whole summer on a 15/12 using no OSHA anything except the two roof brackets at the top that were connected with chain. The grigri and ascender combination was key, OSHA crap would have slowed the job down immensely. That old rope is still good for another couple roof jobs.

I like that old shoe trick, I'd imagine it could leave scuff marks though.

I always just pull a rope over the ridge and anchor it to a tree, or my truck. If it's your truck, take the keys with you...there are stories. Getting the rope over the ridge isn't always easy. I like to use an old spinning reel and rod, with a weight, you can cast that rig right over the house, pull a piece of nylon string back over the ridge, attach the rope to the string and pull it over. I'll let you guys argue about harnesses and lanyards and OSHA.