Are ice climbing crampons appropriate for mountaineering?

I have some ice climbing and trad rock under my belt and plan on getting out to do some mountaineering this winter in the northeast. I have BD Cyborgs for ice climbing. Should I have a different pair for mountaineering? If so, what kind/brand?

You might find that you have less purchase on steep snow, the vertical front points may just slice though it. Personally, I'd just stay within your limits and give it a try using what you've got. If it sucks, get another pair. FWIW, I have BD Sabretooths that I use for everything, including vertical ice. It's just a little harder.

I agree with Chris; stick with your current gear unless you're absolutely certain that you're going to love winter mountaineering and do it a lot. IMO mountaineering style crampons are a bit better in snow traction (due to the horizontal front points), hike a bit better (due to the non-rail/semi-flexible contruction) and IMO don't allow snow to ball up under foot quite as much as many ice crampons (again due to the non-rail/box construction). Watch that last thing, snow balling up under foot can turn your crampons into skis.
-Tom

I'd just stay with the cyborgs. You should be perfectly fine. I would use them as dual-points though, and reserve the monos for ice and mixed stuff.

Enjoy

I have petzl M-10s and they ball up horrendously. But I agree not wasting money on something else until you definitely know its something you're into. I have homemade antibotts made from zip ties and plastic milk jugs that work okay. You shouldn't be too bad because your 'poons have horizontal side rails, and I think that makes a huge difference.

I have the Petzl Sarkens for Ice Climbing but I have used it for mountaineering. It does have the anti-balling plates and they seemed fine when walking in steep snow, with the vertical points. However, they are semi flexible and not flexible which I was told makes them a little cumbersome, I`ve never used mountaineering specific crampons, but I have held them and they are definitely a hell of a lot lighter.

You'll be fine with the Cyborgs. Save your money and put it towards an ice climbing trip to Ouray.

Probably, but it depends.

If you're going to be mainly crossing snowfields -- no big deal, use the cyborgs. They may ball a little more than a mountaineering crampon due to the vertical front points -- but they are much better for balling than the crampons of yesteryear which had vertical rails, like cookie cutters (e.g. M10).

However, if you're going to be crossing boulder fields, climbing mixed mountaineering routes, etc -- know that you will beat the snot out of your sharp cyborgs, and climbing water ice with them may feel different after all the points are dull. Of course, you can replace the front ones at a cost and sharpen the other points, as needed (though you can only do that so many times).

An ideal mountaineering crampon is a pneumatic style with the horizontal vertical points like the Sabertooth. They will accommodate most boots, even if you have overboots, etc on; to some, the flat points tend to be a little nicer crossing solid terrain and seems to feel more stable on the horizontal ledges.

From plenty of winter experience in the Adirondacks your better option is a pair of MSR Denali snowshoes with heel lifters 99% of the time. With good technique technical snow shoes will get you up just about everything but the nastiest verglas. The benefits are: you won't post hole, you can glissade safely, you can move a heck of a lot faster and the heel lifters are great for going up hill. Microspikes are good for shoulder season when things are slippy.
On a side note, at least inside the Adirondack park snowshoes or skis are required to be worn by law and you will get ticketed if you are only wearing crampons on a DEC trail in winter. I always carry my crampons when I'm planning on being above tree line but I rarely put them on unless its something long and nearly vertical.

just as you can climb water ice with an alpine axe, you can climb snow with vertical ice crampons. they'll certainly work but there is a reason for two specialized forms of crampons and each will work better in the conditions they're designed for.

i'd agree with others who've suggested that you try it out in a situation that is well within your limits to see how it works for you.

Chris90 wrote:I have some ice climbing and trad rock under my belt and plan on getting out to do some mountaineering this winter in the northeast. I have BD Cyborgs for ice climbing. Should I have a different pair for mountaineering? If so, what kind/brand?

Chris,
I also have the BD Cyborgs and have done a descent amount of winter playing in the Northeast. To echo what others have said previously, you'll be fine with the 'poons you already own!

Have fun,

Jason

I use both cyborgs and sabertooths, BUT you'd be fine with either...I easily succumb to the gear fairy. Of course each one is "better" for a specific job, but considering the crampons that were used in the not to distant past you'll be just fine...in fact, better than fine.

as what most people say. The biggest problem will be balling up which anti-botts (either home made or store bought) should help

Luckily BD comes equiped with the 'botts right out the box now....my fingers are so happy I no longer have to slice them up.

Man I bled putting on the latex antibotts on my M10's.

I bought the Cyborgs a couple of years ago specifically for mountaineering, (glaciers) and have been very happy with them in all my snow climbs as well as the glaciers I bought them for. Previously I used the BD Contact.

I think the vertical toe points are an advantage in steep snow, especially early morning when its rock hard. I have sailed up couloirs with single kicks while partners have had to kick three or four times to get purchase.

I say stick with the Cyborgs. To me they have been a huge improvement over the old BD Contacts for my snow and glacier travel.