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Weather in the Black Canyon in October?

Original Post
Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970

I'm toying with the idea of taking my first trip to the Black in mid or late October. What's the weather like then? And I'm considering Escape Artist. How sunny is that route? Are there routes that would be better if it's particularly chilly?

Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410

The single worse forced bivi I've ever experienced was a pitch and half from the rim, hanging in slings, in a all night rain storm in the middle of Oct. The day before we had climbed Escape Artist for our warmup in tee shirts. It can be hit or miss. Just watch the weather and you'll likely have a great time.

Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 410

Escape Artist stays in the shade for quite a while. We climbed in early June and the sun was on us about 1 or 1:30. However, we started up right a dawn to be the first on the route which I'd recommend as it is very popular.

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 862

Great route! Start early as the days are short. get on it!!!!

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,743

That time of year is usually pretty good, though the days are a bit short for Grade V's (for the average climber). Escape Artist is pretty shady but might be doable. Russian Arete is a route of comparable difficulty that gets sun most of the day. Journey Home (which is way more sustained) and Checkerboard Wall (shorter but harder) are classics that get morning shade but come into the sun quite a bit earlier than EA.

Nights will be cold!

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970

Suh-weet. Thanks for the info, guys. Hmmm... Journey Home looks pretty rad. I might have to make that one the route to do. I was thinking of easing in to Black Canyon climbing with a 5.9 but hey, go big or go home, right?

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Was at the Black last weekend and it was HOT. October should generally be good if you have a favorable forecast.

Journey Home is an awesome line, and will get decent sun from 9 am until 1 pm or so. Would be a pretty stout introduction to the Black.

Wally

Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

Tristan, maybe "go big or go home, right?" but just keep in mind that the first pitch of Journey Home could send you home in a cast if you aren't solid at the grade. Not trying to harsh on your buzz, but that pitch is pretty serious.

Wally, is there anything that you are not climbing these days?? You really seem to be gettin' er done.

Jeff Bevan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2000 · Points: 10

As has been said before, October in the Black can be a crap shoot. the later you go in the month the higher the crap shoot quotient goes up. Have climbed there extensively in Oct and generally consider late Oct to be iffy. This year seems to be setting up for a very good Indian Summer so maybe. Certainly Journey Home is amongst the sunnier climbs at a lower .10 grade. Escape is not really on a par with Journey Home, more sustained and harder. If you are a capable trad climber a little later start on Escape Artist to put you closer to the sun window won't be too detrimental. But be solid on changeovers, route finding etc. etc. Escape Artist can go much quicker than Journey but if you are just getting comfortable in the Trad arena at that difficulty and grade go easier than harder. While Maiden Voyage is certainly a full step off, maybe more (easier), than Escape it is a good warmup and intro into black dynamics.

Ray Hellinger · · Gunnison, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 350

I've climbed in the Black a LOT....Oct is the BEST time of year to climb there. Don't worry about the posts that say "its a crap shoot".

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970

Sweet guys, thanks for the feedback. Journey Home is solidly within my abilities so either Escape Artist or Journey home should be good. Looking forward to it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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