Mountain Project Logo

old hexcentrics and stoppers ... best way to repair/refurbish?

Original Post
Justin Tomlinson · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 270

I have a whole set of old (pre 1985, not sure how pre) hexes and some stoppers. Most of the hexes are threaded with 10.5?mm rope, I assume static. The smaller ones are threaded with something around 8 or 9 mm.

I plan on cutting the rope out and replacing it. Should I use the same diameter rope or can I get away with 7mm nylon cord, double fishermans? Will it be a problem that 7mm doesn't fill the holes in the hex? The guy at REI thought I should replace with same diameter rope to avoid friction of the 7mm moving through. What do you think?

As far as the stoppers, are they safe to use? Should they be rewired? Does Black Diamond do this?

Thanks for your input/help!

Chris Barker · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 50

As long as you know the history (no long drops or hard falls) passive metal protection should last forever. I would rethread them with a high breaking strength cord like Blue Water 8mm Accessory Cord . Threading hexes you need something that is very strong. Look for anything Dyneema or with a breaking streingth of 14kn or more. The double fisherman's is a great low impact knot but it still reduces the breaking strength of the cord by 30%.

Hope that helps!

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Don't use dyneema. Use perlon cord. It stretches and helps
take some of the force on falls, unlike spectra or dyneema.
Lasts longer, and takes knots better also. I always used the
suggested diameter cord for each of my hexes/stoppers, still do.
I'm sure if you check the BD site they'll have recommendations
for what sizes.

Larry DeAngelo · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 5,315

useful info here:

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

Chris Barker · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 50

Sorry Steve, you are right, dyneema and spectra are wrong. Perlon is the way to go for sure. I found a great site with some specs on the durability (strength after 200 bending cycles) and strength when tied in a knot or anchor. It compares perlon, spectra and tech cord. Check it Out

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "old hexcentrics and stoppers ... best way to re…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.