reccomended (non-alpine) onsight level for Casual Route

In your opinion, what grade should someone be consistently onsighting in Eldo, or elsewhere, before having a strong chance of success on the Casual Route on the Diamond?
(assuming adequate cardio fitness)

The climbing is Eldo is generally a lot different than the stuff you find on most diamond routes- especially the casual. I'd concentrate on the splitters (I'm sure there's something around your neck of the woods), I'd recommend the s.platte around here.

But to answer your question- standard all around 5.10, and in every discipline. Moving fast, linking pitches and having the systems down can make the climb a lark. I don't remember there being a 5.10 move on the casual, but lots of honest 5.9. Hope that helps.

The Casual Route is just that, casual. But if your onsighting 5.10 consistently that might help. Your best chance of success though is not so much dependent on how hard you climb but rather how fast you climb. Almost all of the route is moderate (meaning 5.7 to 5.9) so if you can climb fast at those grades then you'll have a much better chance of success. If your crawling up the wall, taking half an hour to set up an anchor and another half an hour to rerack and start climbing again, well then good luck.

Climbing fast and efficiently and not screwing around should get you up and down before the afternoon thunderstorms. And if your really getting after it you might even make back in time for Happy Hour.

My buddy Mark and I did the casual last year and he may chime in.

I think we decided afterwords that if you can link the yellow spur to the green spur you can probably climb the casual route.

I also second the real crux of the route being the long day, far walk and need to keep moving quickly. (Good weather helps of course.)

-Jon

cheifitj wrote:I think we decided afterwords that if you can link the yellow spur to the green spur you can probably climb the casual route.

Yup. I remember we did the Double Spur after the Casual and thought that it was a fair estimate of the actual climbing on the Casual. We did simul-climb the North Chimney up to the top of P1, so this counted as part of the approach. Be quick and have your systems dialed and you will be OK.

The crux move is a chimney thing that might be a .10a move or two. So if you have the endurance for that amount of work then if you can climb trad 10's and are not intimidated by chimneys then you would probably be ready.

+1 for moving fast. it was one of my longer climbing days to date

The crux is being in good cardio shape. Being solid at 5.10 is important, but I've always felt that getting up to and get off Broadway is the most physically taxing aspect of the climb.

Cheers

You've also got to pace yourself pretty well for that ridiculously fun, ridiculously long 5.8 corner. It's gotta be above 13,500.

I lead a hand full of 10b routes in the Platte before I went up there.

I think if you are onsighting 9+ or 10a in Eldo you are good to go on technical difficulty.

Thing is, that is a small part of the equation. Long's Peak and the Diamond are massive and the logistics are not to be taken lightly if you have never been up there. Are you attempting car to car or with an overnight bivy? Are you going to the summit or doing the raps? Are you soloing the North Chimney or roping up? The details go on and on. If you are fit and efficient and the weather is great, you will have no problem. But, if you are fumbling and the weather rolls in, you're hating it.

If you haven't been up there, consider doing Directissima on Chasm View wall next door. It has almost the same approach, it is slightly harder and more sustained, but half as long. If that goes well, you should be fine on the Casual Route.

Devan Johnson wrote:The climbing is Eldo is generally a lot different than the stuff you find on most diamond routes- especially the casual. I'd concentrate on the splitters (I'm sure there's something around your neck of the woods), I'd recommend the s.platte around here. But to answer your question- standard all around 5.10, and in every discipline. Moving fast, linking pitches and having the systems down can make the climb a lark. I don't remember there being a 5.10 move on the casual, but lots of honest 5.9. Hope that helps.

moving fast is probably the most important part of getting the casual route done in an enjoyable fashion - for both you and everyone else on the diamond. however, i disagree that training splitters is a good way to "train" for the casual route. the crux is face-y and technical, more similar to eldo climbs i've done than anything i did previously in RMNP or at Lumpy Ridge than any "crack" climbing i had done up until then.

i would recomend undertaking a couple other, less committing, alpine climbs in the park at that level. check out the East Prow of Spearhead, or even a couple easier routes on Hallett or something to get in some alpine mileage.

Aaron Martinuzzi wrote: moving fast is probably the most important part of getting the casual route done in an enjoyable fashion - for both you and everyone else on the diamond. however, i disagree that training splitters is a good way to "train" for the casual route. the crux is face-y and technical, more similar to eldo climbs i've done than anything i did previously in RMNP or at Lumpy Ridge than any "crack" climbing i had done up until then. i would recomend undertaking a couple other, less committing, alpine climbs in the park at that level. check out the East Prow of Spearhead, or even a couple easier routes on Hallett or something to get in some alpine mileage.

Training on slitters is a good way to train for the diamond, but not mandatory for the casual- so I agree with you there. Nevertheless, proficiency on cracks would still be a prerequisite, as linking the long handcrack dihedral is the way to go on the casual. I can't think of anything in Eldo that compares.

A high level of cardio physical fitness is the key. Also, be acclimated to the altitude. My partner had altitude sickness and was vomiting on Broadway. To his credit, we did do the route regardless.

Colin Simon wrote:You've also got to pace yourself pretty well for that ridiculously fun, ridiculously long 5.8 corner. It's gotta be above 13,500.

This corner is probably one of the better pitches I have climbed. Especialy due to the setting it is in. I was sucking air when I got to the top of that!

Being efficient is the key for any route in the Park. Most days during the summer, weather will be a potential issue. I agree with doing some other routes to get used to the setting, weather patterns, and acclimatizing.

Culp-Bossier on Halletts, S Ridge of Notchtop, the Petit, etc. will give you a feel for climbing in the Park. With that being said, standing on Broadway looking up can be a bit intimidating for the first time. Once you get going up the route you will be stoked, it is an amazing setting.

If you are fit, car to car in a day is my preference. Some of the bivy sites are cool, but go early and light and knock it out in a day.

Lynn S wrote:With that being said, standing on Broadway looking up can be a bit intimidating for the first time. Once you get going up the route you will be stoked, it is an amazing setting.

This was exactly my experience. I felt like throwing up, but 20 feet off the belay I was psyched and taking pictures while on lead.

That photo is a *perfect* view of the 4th class descent route (NOT the camel).

I highly recommend sleeping at the base the night before if it is your first attempt. Much easier to be well rested, get started early, acclimatize, and is a much more enjoyable overall experience - IMHO. Also if you get there early the day before you can locate the North Chimney in advance.

I'd recommend staying to the left on the slabs at the start of the North Chimney if they aren't covered in snow.