"Don't Screw Up"

So I've been climbing for awhile and never totally understood the "Don't Screw Up" saying for the belay biner. I understand that you want the carabiner to be oriented along the major axis and all, is having it positioned this way supposed to make it more likely that it will stay this way? Any other reasons that you'd want the open part of the gate closer to you?

I thought that was just a mnemonic device to remember to orient the biner so that gravity and vibration do not accidentally unscrew your locker. Now a days we have spring lockers, ball locks and those plastic things that bridge across when its closed. Here's another if you see "red yer ded".

Yep, its always best to orient All lockers to screw down so that vibration/gravity doesn't unlock it.

Some/most biners, like mine, screw to the pear shaped side. I like the belay device rigged on this end because it doesn't bind up on the atc like the narrow end. This means that you're screwing up, which is not ideal. But...this is common practice and not a real concern IMHO.

Just squeeze check, and screw down firmly but remember not to wrench it down.

Evan

Anybody remember those older Chouinard lockers that screwed down to lock? the slogan was "Screw down so you don't screw up."

Ryan Huetter wrote:Anybody remember those older Chouinard lockers that screwed down to lock? the slogan was "Screw down so you don't screw up."

Did Chouinard get sued over that screw down biner? I've heard a 'story' about a window washer here in Atlanta suing/trying to sue over the fact that it was opposite of the normal screw method.

What's funny is that the carabiner loads just fine the other way, and allows you to feed or take up slack a lot easier. I check the gate several times during any pitch to ensure that its still screwed shut, that seems like a more effective measure than intentionally making my job as a belayer harder.

Really? I never heard that one. Seems like there are as many or more negatives to a screw-down orientation as having the screw on top. E.g. it's much easier to visually inspect the gate and locking mechanism with the screw up and MUCH easier/faster to get the rope/device into and out-of the 'biner - *especially* if you have a lot of layers on like when ice or alpine climbing. I will continue to "screw up" I guess. (Unless I'm misunderstanding what's being said here).

This topic is more derived from working with rescue systems while performing multiple hauls & system resets; or things like industrial rigging applications.

I could also see this on top rope cycles; but with opposite opposed biners, it's not that big a deal. Any other anchor situation, I'm not concerned about it. Although I think it is good practice to keep checking your belay biner or harness point for your prusik ascension & make sure it's staying locked.

Justin Dansby wrote:Did Chouinard get sued over that screw down biner? I've heard a 'story' about a window washer here in Atlanta suing/trying to sue over the fact that it was opposite of the normal screw method.

Alright thanks for the clarification, seems like it isn't really all that necessary. I've never found it to be either but also know that it is sometimes taught at gyms.

Screw you before you screw me is what I learned.

Evan1984 wrote: Yep, its always best to orient All lockers to screw down so that vibration/gravity doesn't unlock it.

That seems like a myth.  Vibrations are stronger than gravity:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK44XwiczFw (moves both up and down from vibration)
• https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1777511642568798 (moves up from vibration)

This one shows it mostly unscrewing downwards, but it seems like it could still go either way depending on the vibration:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-HshwArsks