What constitues a "Standard" rack?

I am starting with trad climbing, and many routes mention "standard" rack. What is usually meant by "standard"?

Will this suffice for a standard rack route?
7 BD cams (0.3 - 3)
9 nuts 4-12
nut tool
sufficient sling and biners

-Nikhil

"standard rack" is very area/route specific.

I'd say that you have a "light" standard rack if you have enough slings/cordalettes for extending piece and building anchors.

Don't forget some self-rescue goodies like a knife and prussiks.

Start climbing on well protected and straightforward routes and you'll probably figure out if your rack is sufficient for your climbing plans. Then you can add from there.

My standard rack is yours plus:
double cams from .5-2(some various brands for variety)
double nuts from 4-9
pink tricam
knife
prussiks
belay gloves for longer days
9trad draws
4-5 extra slings
4-6 extra biners

Evan

Like Evan said, it really depends on where you climb and what you climb.

That rack has gotten my buddy by at the New for a long time, but isn't good for anything other than single pitch cragging usually.

I'd refer to some of the guidebooks you might be looking at for clarification to the area's specific. Additionally time probably has taken a toll on the overall definition.

To me it's a double rack till about a BD #3, single set of nuts, trad draws etc. Basically you wouldn't expect to see a #5 or a big bro.

I do a double rack including TCU's up to #2, 1-2 #3's (depending), single set of nuts, tri-cams (this isn't standard) and about 12 trad draws (10/60cm, 2/120cm, nut tool, possibly a cordellette and a few biners/locker.

.3 to 3 BD is a good start. Get the set of anodized tri-cams, maybe a few TCU sizes, and about 8 trad draws and 2 shoulder slings. Don't forget you have to make anchors at the top of the climb if you want to bring someone up. The tri-cams normally work great for trad anchors, plus whatever extra gear you didn't place. Make a plan and get a few guide books. There are a few routes where you would want doubles of certain pieces and there are some that require all TCU's, we've also placed the occasional #4 BD, etc...

as stated, thats a great start for a single pitch rack, or a compliment to your partners rack if they have more or less the same rack. if you want to do longer pitches or multi pitch, doubling cams .5 to 3 and mid sized nuts. you might want to think about thinner gear as well (tcus, mastercams, c3s) depending on where and what you are climbing.

I think every one here has a good point, however, most of my guide books that I glanced through say you have a "standard rack". According to my "Serious Play" book (based more towards beginners), a standard rack is:

4 shoulder length slings
8 free carabiners
1 locker
#2-#5 RPs or equivalent
a full set of stoppers with extra 1/2"-3/4"
Hexes and/or cams 3/4"-4" (.5-#3 or #4) with extra 3/4"-1" (.5 and .75 C4s)
8 quickdraws
Belay device
cleaning tool

And like others have said, this is for the Front Range or Colorado, other areas will vary from here. Also, like others have mentioned, remember to take some extra cord/slings and biners for building anchors.

Edit: I would hold off buying doubles until you find out which pieces you use most in your area and filling any holes you feel that you have.

My default rack is:
2x cams up from red C3 to #3 C4 (I sometimes swap one #3 for a #4) Mostly BD cams but a few Metolius in the finger sizes.

1x set of stoppers plus a mixture of micro nuts and brassies

Tri-Cams, the little black through brown (4 total). Just started this last year instead of carrying a second set of stoppers and I find that I place these babies on nearly every pitch.

2x double runners with biner
10 trad draws (runners tripled up)
5 or so regular long draws
couple spare biners
Nut tool
Equilette

Thanks guys... seems like the consensus is that the rack I have will be good enough for most single pitch climbs (mission gorge, mount woodson), and need to get doubles for anything multipitch (Tahquitz).

My target right now is to do east buttress this summer, for which I guess the standard is to have double of everything.

Nikhil wrote:Thanks guys... seems like the consensus is I need to get doubles for anything multipitch (Tahquitz). My target right now is to do east buttress this summer, for which I guess the standard is to have double of everything.

This kind of surprises me. For all of you who said you need doubles, why do you say you need doubles for multipitch stuff? You get all of your gear back between each lead, so why the need for doubles? Now I certainly agree that some areas (Indian Creek, etc) need doubles or more of a size, but, what is your reasoning for doubles for multipitch? I have climbed with basically the OP rack on a handful of multi's without a problem, but I'm still a rookie in comparison...

Thoughts?

Wehling wrote: This kind of surprises me. For all of you who said you need doubles, why do you say you need doubles for multipitch stuff? You get all of your gear back between each lead, so why the need for doubles? Now I certainly agree that some areas (Indian Creek, etc) need doubles or more of a size, but, what is your reasoning for doubles for multipitch? I have climbed with basically the OP rack on a handful of multi's without a problem, but I'm still a rookie in comparison... Thoughts?

I climb with way too much gear, but I'd rather have it than not. I'm not ballsy enough to lead big pitches with a few cams and nuts. I like to be prepared, especially when it comes to building a good belay.

I'm sure we all know that it can be done with next to nothing (see the 1960's), but that doesn't mean anybody wants or need to.

Think about it...1 rack of cams on a pitch you've never seen. What if it mostly takes small hands? The you have like 3 pieces to use and in 60m's that's not a heck of alot.

Scott McMahon wrote: I climb with way too much gear, but I'd rather have it than not. I'm not ballsy enough to lead big pitches with a few cams and nuts. I like to be prepared, especially when it comes to building a good belay. I'm sure we all know that it can be done with next to nothing (see the 1960's), but that doesn't mean anybody wants or need to. Think about it...1 rack of cams on a pitch you've never seen. What if it mostly takes small hands? The you have like 3 pieces to use and in 60m's that's not a heck of alot.

All true. I think you will definitely need doubles when you have to build your own anchor and are climbing close to your limit. I have something close to this:

climbinglife.com/tech-tips/…

Wehling wrote: This kind of surprises me. For all of you who said you need doubles, why do you say you need doubles for multipitch stuff? You get all of your gear back between each lead, so why the need for doubles? Now I certainly agree that some areas (Indian Creek, etc) need doubles or more of a size, but, what is your reasoning for doubles for multipitch? I have climbed with basically the OP rack on a handful of multi's without a problem, but I'm still a rookie in comparison... Thoughts?

I've got a single rack (set of BD nuts, .5 to 4 C4's, a few small TCUs, a pink tricam, barely enough slings/draws). When I started out I just had passive pro though I never really enjoyed having so few pieces.

When I'm climbing harder full 60m or 70m pitches, I find I'll use darn near every piece I've got, often hoping I have enough left for the belay. I'll wonder if I should place a cam early in the pitch or if I'll need it for the belay or a crux section. I run it out when it's easy and there looks like there is pro above. I've pretty much always managed just fine but when I climb on Aaron's rack or someone else who has double cams in the .4 to #2 range it's a lot easier and I don't feel so forced to run it or spend a lot of time fiddling in nuts where ever possible.

When I'm on easy terrain or climbing short pitches a single rack is fine.

Wehling wrote: This kind of surprises me. For all of you who said you need doubles, why do you say you need doubles for multipitch stuff? You get all of your gear back between each lead, so why the need for doubles? Now I certainly agree that some areas (Indian Creek, etc) need doubles or more of a size, but, what is your reasoning for doubles for multipitch? I have climbed with basically the OP rack on a handful of multi's without a problem, but I'm still a rookie in comparison... Thoughts?

7 cams and 9 nuts leaves you with enough gear for 2 gear anchors and 10 pieces for the pitch. Assuming you're climbing somewhere with sufficiently varied placement options that you can use all the gear you've got, you'll be able to average one piece every 15-20 feet. That's fine if you're comfortable with the terrain, hardly ideal if you're pushing yourself.

And that's assuming that you'll find a climb that eats all the different sizes of gear that you throw at it. It can be a RP one minute and a #3 the next. I might never place a nut, while other climbs I'll place a bunch and wish I had more.

I haven't had the luck of experiencing that though...

Standard would be a "B" cup. "C" cup is preferred.

Fair enough. I totally agree with you that its nice to have doubles, however, I'm a poor boy and I can only afford a single set as of yet and I have had to get creative at anchors before. My argument is that don't be afraid to climb without doubles, just be confident in using what you've got and do some research in the guidebooks, they are usually pretty good at saying if you need more than what I'd call a "standard rack". Just my $.02. I can't wait to get doubles though, still trying to decide if I want my first set of c3s, small mastercams or doubles of c4s first.........

Red wrote:Standard would be a "B" cup. "C" cup is preferred.

I disagree, I prefer me some standard rack, "too much rack" as Scott puts it, doesn't spice it up as much. Its like playing it safe.

Run it out, go for A's!

36C according to Frederick's of Hollywood.

Anything more than a mouthful is a waste. I prefer holding the rack in my mouth when switching hands.

A standard rack include doubles of all the BD wires, three pink tri-cams, two #9 WC hexcentrics and one #1 camalot C4.

Anything else is extra.