When does gear just get to old for safe use?

I was looking through the dirtbag climber gear sale on mp and saw that a guy was getting rid of dogbones that were from 2003. It made me think about my own gear and thought i would get a few second opinions.

I climb about 60 ish days a year and have a harness from 2004, rope from 2005, and a bunch of other stuff from the same time period. I don't fall that much and have only taken about 2 memorable falls. all the gear looks, and feels in good shape but when is the right time to retire it?

Thanks for the comments

Sorry if its been discussed before
PK

For maximum safety, I'd say the lifespan of any webbing (nylon, dyneema, spectra, etc.) is five years. There is plenty of anecdotal evidence that this stuff lasts far longer, and it's over built to begin with. But if you can afford to replace your gear, why take chances?

Swagged metal connections (TCUs, stoppers, rocks, etc.) on stainless steel aren't subject to much corrosion and have an indefinite lifespan. The old Chouinard stoppers slung on galvanized cable were suspect the day they left the factory.

The rest of your gear (belay device, carabiners, etc.)should last decades provided there isn't excessive wear; these items can be visually inspected.

I replace all webbing every 5yrs too. Its about $3-$5 to get cams Resilged by the manufacture.

Gear and Biners are wear based i have only had to trash a few usally because the gate got jacked up or there was now spring left in the gate.

Ropes are 2-4 yrs depending on use.

Harness 2-3 year, but i know people who get a new one every year.

I don't replace stuff till it's worn out..I hear the whole 5 year thing, but there's no way I'm replacing 20+ dyneema slings and having a triple rack of cams reslung. I keep them stored dry, out of the sun etc. I just can't see replacing stuff that is in perfect condition just because of a time frame.

I'd need to see some serious documentation of failure on nylon that's in fine condition before I would consider that. I've slowly added to my rack over a long time, and haven't kept a log on each sling. I've got rope that I don't use that often anymore and I'm not just going to throw them away.

I'm as safety conscious as the next person, but you can bet all your partners aren't flipping their gear every few years. In fact quite a few people NEED to retire some stuff and don't.

I have a gym rope that I have used since 07. It has seen at least 300 falls and many jugs. From visual inspection It seems fine. Still stretchy. Although I have noticed it takes a little longer for the rope to recoil after a big fall.

Nylon loses about 5% of its strength every year. Manufacturers recommend to replace softgoods every 5 years without any signs of significant wear or deformation. I have read a few studies about 25 year old (unused) ropes that are still failing nearly at their original breaking strength. It seems that replacing old soft goods typically comes on a case by case basis.

eric whewell wrote:Nylon loses about 5% of its strength every year.

You got a reference for that??

You should know that Sterling (rope manufacturer), Beal (rope manufacturer), and Pit Schubert (President, UIAA; Safety Director, German Alpine Association) disagree with you.

But maybe you're the guy mentioned above who buys a new harness every year. You don't want to be only 95% safe...right?

David Brown wrote: Swagged metal connections (TCUs, stoppers, rocks, etc.) on stainless steel aren't subject to much corrosion and have an indefinite lifespan. The old Chouinard stoppers slung on galvanized cable were suspect the day they left the factory.

Sounds like you're saying that stainless is safe and galvanized cable is a time bomb.

Have you shared this insight with Black Diamond Equipment? Because they might want to know if there's a problem with the GALVANIZED cable they have used for years, AND STILL DO:

"Black Diamond Stoppers are an essential for every trad rack, designed with a transverse taper that permits sideways placements in flares and shallow seams. Anodized by size, they're quickly identifiable and rounded edges make for easy removal. Each Stopper is equipped with a durable, galvanized steel cable.