Climbing around Hanksville Utah?

We're headed down for a family vacation in a couple of weeks, hoping to fit some climbing into the schedule. Any info would be appreciated.

Lots of remote adventure choss, not well documented. If you drive for an hour you can get to the more documented parts of the San Rafael Swell near I70. There is a lot of info right here on mountainproject, and I could make some recommendations if you are more specific about the sort of climbing you are looking for.

There's the Henry mountains ,but maybe not so good for a family trip. A great place though.
Moki Dugway, mexican hat, John's canyon, Combs Ridge........

Capitol Reef Nat Park
check Desert Rock - National Parks

There's the view finder towers right outside of hanksville,
This route would be the easiest:
mountainproject.com/v/utah/…

Cleopatra's Chair.

Stay away from the Henry's. . . it's no place for a sane man, let alone a family. All sorts of crazy unpleasantness going on up there.
I could tell you some descriptive stories, but my post would be flagged.
Hear me friend. Hear me. . . .

Yeah, the first rule of fight club is you don't talk about fight club!

You should go check out the Horn in the Henry Mountains. Great rock.

email me if you need some more specific directions

Thanks for all the replies.

Jason great pics, I really enjoyed your trip reports of your adventures in that area.

Hank, Great FA on the Hanksville sign.

Andrew, I would love to get back to the Swell/Eastern Reef slabs, just not going to work for this trip. We are heading to Goblin Valley state park and Little Wild horse canyon area.

And to all who suggested the Henry Mountains I would love to get down there, but unfortunately that won't be practical for this trip.

Thanks again!!!

Yeah, the first rule of fight club is you don't talk about fight club!</quoteI'm sorry, the Henry's do not exist, nor will they ever exist

Yea I thought it looked like a good pecker crack too, that's why I was trying to put it up... I got 2 peckers off the ground, I was working on top stepping when the second one shifted. I tried to work back down but I knew it was doomed as I sat on my feet with no way to get them out of the steps. I flew, and luckily the first pecker caught me right as I touched down (I was attatched by a daisy with a screamer, and had a spotter to keep me from rolling down the hill if it all blew).

Things didn't quite unfold as planned, perhaps with more time, gear and experience it would have. No gaurantee though as I had numerous pecker placments just blow out (pods) into the water erroded seam. I'll be back, hopefully with longer days, and more gear, I figure it's most likely safely protected from ground fall from where I left off(by atleast 2 or 3 8 x 3/8 " nails). Hopefully then I will be more confident in pounding peckers in that scary entrada.

For perspective the fourth and sixth picture are of the same formation. Talk about a scary summit block!

FYI pretty much all the rock in this are is scary.

If you head about 30-40 miles out of hanksville near the north wash area towards the glen canyon recreation area there is some wingate that looks alot less scary. Good luck on finding beta though, lot's of classic looking lines awaiting FA's I assume. I have some pics of a fair bit of that stuff too, which I think I'll hold on to for now.

Hey Jason, If you need a partner a little later in the spring let me know. I have a full rack of pins and assorted aid gear. I'd be up for a good scare fest!

Jason Kaplan wrote: If you head about 30-40 miles out of hanksville near the north wash area towards the glen canyon recreation area there is some wingate that looks alot less scary. Good luck on finding beta though, lot's of classic looking lines awaiting FA's I assume. I have some pics of a fair bit of that stuff too, which I think I'll hold on to for now.

no, much of that has been climbed

Is any of it documented??? That would be nice info to have for sure. I figured some of it had been done, but I bet there's still a fair bit that could be put up, particularly thin seams. I kinda figured Most of the possible free routes and classic corners have been sent.

The Candy Stick. About 90 feet high. Cracks on the north side. No bolts, rappel from hammered stakes in the summit. Right out of town, northwest. Hanksville is great; the definition of sleepy.