Need a new insulated jacket - reccomendations?

After 10 years of service, my MH Sub Zero SL is finally dying and I am looking for a new insulated jacket. I would like something that is at least fairly water resistant and very warm, preferably with a removable hood, but that isn't a deal breaker.

I have a short list, but am looking for any other suggestions or comments from people with experience with these:

Another MH Sub Zero - my only concern is whether MH's quality has gone down at all.

RAB Neutrino, Arcteryx dually belay parka or Fission SV (I just don't know how warm either of them are and they are expensive!), Westcomb Himalaya Hoodie and Feathered Friends Volant.

Thanks in advance!

Patagonia DAS parka. I have the down parka, and many times wish I had the DAS (and probably will be picking one up soon if a good sale presents itself). They are bombproof.
I am always partial to Patagonia. I respect their responsibility as a company and I feel that most of their pieces are pretty dialed.

The RAB Neutrino is pretty sweet, and you can probably find a deal on one (I did). I really like my Mammut Stratus as well, little heavy (synthetic), but it is crazy warm with super fill. For longer hikes I have an OR Chaos jacket which is light, warm and windstopper. The Chaos always gets great reviews and is on sale at a lot of places right now, especially the 07 model.

I also have a few Montbell down jackets and I love them except they are CONSTANTLY seeping feathers!! I'm sure it's the "fast and light" material they use, but they is alot of leakage at the seams.

Arcteryx and Feathered friends are awesome, but the price tags are just too much for one item.

coldthistle.blogspot.com/
Here is a review that I saw linked on Cascadeclimbers.com
It's long, but has some good information

I have the Burton AK 2L LZ Down Jacket which is a really awesome jacket and worth the money in my opinion as it has features that no one else has.

Gore-tex shell makes it bomb-proof compared to any other puffy I have seen.

Pit-Zips actually allow you to wear it in slightly favorable conditions.

It is cut more for snowboarding so it is more baggy than my experience with Patagonia, etc puffy's but that also means that it actually is long enough to cover your ass as well which is nice when you are sitting around.

I have three insulated jackets -

Patagonia Down Parka - For climbing on the coldest of cold days, it wears like a sleeping bag and actually looks the same...

Mountain Hardwear Compressor - For climbing multi-pitch or cragging warm when wet - light and compressible, it's my workhorse belay jacket.

Patagonia Down Sweater - for climbing the burliest of bar stools - it's lime green and makes the statement - "Hey, I'm a climber - what's your name?"

I would look for a couple of features in which ever jacket you choose - easy to adjust hood
two way zippers - for belaying
and roomy enough for the maximum amount of layering

Hope that helps and remember - you won't think about how much you spent when you are warm - but how much you didn't spend when you are freezing your ass off.

I have a Mammut Stratus that has served me extremely well for years. Relatively inexpensive, at least when I bought it. Maybe $160?

I've had my Feathered Friends Frontpoint jacket for about 12 years, and my only complaint is it's too warm. Thing looks still brand new.....

Here you go.
Large Red Patagonia DAS Parka in Excellent Condition Shipped $150.00
XL Fits like large Sage green Feathered Friends Volant hooded Jacket with 2oz. overfill.Excellent Condition $250 you pay shipping.
Large Grey TNF Redpoint Optimus Jacket Great Condition Shipped $110.00

Rab Stuff is great I can get that as well, if you want one.
PM me.

mont bell makes a few excellent and very light down jackets. I have the alpine something and it was 135 and I've never been cold. Packs down smaller than 1L

Dave Cummings wrote:DAS Parka from Patagonia is great

+1

I love my DAS Parka, toasty warm even when wet, huge drop in pockets on the inside for glove/mittens/skins/etc, two way zipper for easy belaying, adjustable hood . . . It's a great jacket.

first ascent has a sale right now on their website. Their synthetic Ignitor jacket($120 right now) is what ive been using this winter and am really pleased. Then they have the down Peak XV jacket ($200 on sale) with a hefty bit of insulation. my .02

I replaced my SubZero SL with a Rab Neutrino Endurance. It has about the same warmth, but it's lighter than the MHW. Unless I was actually expecting to get soaking wet, I choose it over a DAS. Warmer, a bit lighter, more compressible.

Got a DAS parka this year and it is the best belay jacket I have ever owned....

+1 Feathered Friends Frontpoint, mine is too warm a lot of time as well.

I love my Wild Things Belay Jacket. It is really durable and warm, has 2 way zippers, and is made in NH. My only gripe is that the small zipper is hard to use, especially with cold hands.

The Fission is a great jacket, but not nearly as warm as a dedicated puffy...its more an insulated shell

Go online, link into Wildness Exchange here in Denver and order a Mammut hooded Stratus. It's a great parka. i got home tonight from a very cold week in the Tetons and it worked just fine. With a stratus vest under it, bomb proof and affordable.

Thanks for all the recommendations. I decided to go with the RAB Neutrino Endurance. Based on all my research it seems like will be about as warm as my MH Sub Zero, but lighter and slightly more water resistant.

I still can't get over my fear of synthetic insulation not being warm enough.

If anyone is interested, I will post a review once I get it and use it a bit.

I just ordered a First Ascent Peak XV Down Jacket. Anybody else have one of these?

coop wrote:I just ordered a First Ascent Peak XV Down Jacket. Anybody else have one of these?

This was in the running, between the great sale price and the reviews. I hope someone who has one posts a review, I would be interested in how these have held up.