Climbing Hydration Pack

I am considering purchasing a hydration pack for multi-pich climbing. I am looking at the Petzl Bug, TNF Gulper and TNF Hammerhead. I want to be able to carry water (either 70 or 100 oz) approach shoes, headlamp, food... and maybe an extra outer layer. I usually carry as little as possible, and want to do it in the smallest pack possible! I climbed with a friend's TNF Thresher, which was great. However, with less than 250 ci of space it had no room for anything other than H2o.

Thoughts on the above listed packs and any additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I would look at the camelbak lobo or mule. I have thought about getting the lobo for a while it has a 100oz bladder and has just enough room for some food a light layer and then sandals to slide in the strechy area. the mule is a bunch bigger and would offer more space but a bit more bulk. You also may want to look into BDs smaller pack, i have the hollowpoint for sport cragging and they are bombproof. The hollowpoint is 20L so a bit big but they have a bunch of smaller ones.

I like the BD Bullet, taken this on several bigger trad climbing days and always been happy with the way it carries and what you can stuff into it. I'm not a fan of the hydration packs with all the extra stuff on the outside to get caught on the rock. It doesn't seem as big as it looks like in the picture.

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

I would generally agree with Mr. Cushman. I have owned several hydration packs and I have settled on the following arrangement. For days that I do not need to carry anything, then I just take a very slim hydration pack with just enough storage for a headlamp and a couple Gu's. Otherwise, if I need to carry a few things, I have discovered that the hydration packs made by CamelBak etc., kinda suck as packs, i.e. as others have said, they have all this extra crap on the outside that just adds weight and clutter, and on top of that, CamelBaks are really pretty heavy (they have all this unneeded padding etc.). Instead, I like having a lightweight mini-backpack that I just put the hydration sleeve into. The BD bullet falls into this category, but I prefer the Osprey Talon 11.

ospreypacks.com/detail.php?…

This pack has a built in hydration sleeve with a small lightweight buckle that you attach to the sleeve and it holds the sleeve upright. Furthermore, although the Talon is very lightweight, the shoulder straps are very comfortable. I can usually stuff the rack into this little thing with my sleeve, and then it crushes down for climbing very well. If you want something smaller, they also make a Talon 5.5.
Best.

sap075.channeladvisor.com/p…

I use a Voodoo Tactical brand MSP-4 Enhanced Hydro Pack. Room for a second layer, my Chucks, lunch, and a 100 oz Camelback bladder(secured at the top and in a sleeve).It also has a neat helmet hammock. The website says they don't include the bladder, but mine came with one (at JAX in Loveland)and I bought a big camelback bladder as well. The pack has comfy straps, enough room for a few pitches, and is tough as nails. I have dragged it through some tight squeezes, and across some sharp stone with only one small tear that was halted by the ripstop. I use it all the time and it will see it's third season this year, with no signs of needing replacement. I did cut off the goofy elastic cord on the rear, it liked to snag on branches during down-climbs. Just wish it was waterproof. You can find them using the link, or at most surplus stores. J

Save yourself some money and checkout the REI - Flash 18. Hydration compatible, just 10 ounces, and costs $29.50.

I have a TNF Hammerhead. Great pack. Really stays centered on my back while climbing, skiing and cycling, even after I chopped off the waist band. Love the sleeve on the back for stuffing a pair of approach shoes.

I also have a BD Speed 30. Super climbing pack - strip the top pocket, waist band, and frame sheet, it's down to 1lb. 3oz. Hydration compatible and sucks down tight with side compressin straps. I've carried 20-25lbs. (full alpine rack & gear) in it this way on approaches, very comfy.

jaypg wrote:Save yourself some money and checkout the REI - Flash 18. Hydration compatible, just 10 ounces, and costs $29.50.

I own one and it is a chunk of sh*t. Unfortunately, I have had the same experience with every other piece of REI gear I have owned. The daisy chains on that thing lasted all of 2 months and I was only clipping shoes. Buy something that will last instead.

J. Albers wrote: I own one and it is a chunk of sh*t. Unfortunately, I have had the same experience with every other piece of REI gear I have owned. The daisy chains on that thing lasted all of 2 months and I was only clipping shoes. Buy something that will last instead.

It's fine. It's a stuff sack with straps - not a haul bag. As such it packs to nothing for the trip in to the base of your climb...then takes your shoes (inside......), jacket, water and food for an all day climb. Don't thrash up too many offwidth's and it'll do you fine.

It's fashionable to complain about REI gear...but some of their stuff works well.

Thanks so much for all the replies! I will take another look at the BD packs. I know that BD makes great stuff, and my hesitation on the Bullet is that there are no straps for cinching down the load. Have any of you BD Bullet promoters ever had a problem with that? I'll also take a look at Osprey, although I have not had good luck with their products in the past.

On a separate note, I just want to say that the community on this site is great! It is so nice to post up and get constructive replies rather than obnoxious comments. To me, this site is so much more enjoyable than rc.com, and I am happy to have found it!

bevans wrote: It's fine. It's a stuff sack with straps - not a haul bag. As such it packs to nothing for the trip in to the base of your climb...then takes your shoes (inside......), jacket, water and food for an all day climb. Don't thrash up too many offwidth's and it'll do you fine. It's fashionable to complain about REI gear...but some of their stuff works well.

Fashionable? Nope, just the truth. There is no excuse for daisy chains breaking in two months. Period. I was not chimney or offwidth climbing, just clipping a pair of climbing shoes to the back. Thus, there was no abuse involved. I have had similar experiences with other REI backpacks (e.g. stitching on compression straps on a backpacking pack come off when pulling on them). In comparison, I regularly submit BD, Osprey, and Dana products to snow, ice, chimneys and all kinds of other abuse and they never break. Quality shows.

J. Albers wrote: Fashionable? Nope, just the truth. There is no excuse for daisy chains breaking in two months. Period. I was not chimney or offwidth climbing, just clipping a pair of climbing shoes to the back. Thus, there was no abuse involved. I have had similar experiences with other REI backpacks (e.g. stitching on compression straps on a backpacking pack come off when pulling on them). In comparison, I regularly submit BD, Osprey, and Dana products to snow, ice, chimneys and all kinds of other abuse and they never break. Quality shows.

I do not agree 100%. Although I have seen some REI stuff that was total crap, I have an REI tent that has been VERY durable, owned a 60 liter pack (I think it was the Saturn) that just would not die, and am thus far very happy with the REI Shuksan Jacket that I got on sale. In my experience, REI brand is either hit or miss, with little in between.

Like you, I have had great luck with BD and Dana (wish I still had my Bomb!). Osprey, not so much. The two packs that I use now are Cilo Gear and Cold Cold World. Both are great. IMHO, CCW is a lot like the old Dana stuff and about as tough as it gets.

NC Rock Climber wrote: I do not agree 100%. Although I have seen some REI stuff that was total crap, I have an REI tent that has been VERY durable, owned a 60 liter pack (I think it was the Saturn) that just would not die, and am thus far very happy with the REI Shuksan Jacket that I got on sale. In my experience, REI brand is either hit or miss, with little in between. Like you, I have had great luck with BD and Dana (wish I still had my Bomb!). Osprey, not so much. The two packs that I use now are Cilo Gear and Cold Cold World. Both are great. IMHO, CCW is a lot like the old Dana stuff and about as tough as it gets.

Which Osprey did you have problems with? I would just like to know what model had problems (and what it was) so that I could stay away. Between my partners and I, we own 4 different Osprey models and they have all been great. No doubt about Cold Cold World being bomber...I should add my Arcteryx Nozone has seen copious amounts of ice and alpine abuse and keeps on ticking. You are probably right about there existing some worthwhile REI stuff. However, between my partners and I, we have all had several pieces of REI gear that fell apart quickly versus say Dana or Arcteryx products where I have never had a problem. I just would rather not gamble with my limited funds.

You probably can't go wrong between the BD Bullet and the Osprey Talon 11. They are both great; I just chose the Talon because I like having a separate hydration sleeve. As far as the durability of this particular Osprey pack, I know three people who own them and they have gotten two abusive seasons out of them and they are still in good shape, so you should be ok.

Cheers.

+1 for Cold Cold World packs. They are light weight and love abuse. Plus the guy who makes them is very cool, if there is a certain feature you would like to see he can add it on, sometimes at no extra cost. That being said, it sounds like you're looking for something smaller than anything they make.

I also just bought my first pack from CiloGear (20L worksack) for use on multipitch routes. I haven't haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it looks like it will be the perfect size for a jacket, water, and shoes.

NC Rock Climber wrote:Thanks so much for all the replies! I will take another look at the BD packs. I know that BD makes great stuff, and my hesitation on the Bullet is that there are no straps for cinching down the load. Have any of you BD Bullet promoters ever had a problem with that?

I don't think you'll really ever need to cinch it down, it's much too small for that. I typically carry shoes/water in it and that is good enough. Even if you are carrying less, it doesn't feel like it is flopping around too much. I cut the waist belt off of mine, I want it primarily as a climbing pack and if you cinch down the shoulder straps enough and tighten up the sternum strap it stays in place very well. Here is mine being used to carry water and a 60m 8mm tag line up the Diamond. The best thing about it is that it doesn't really interfere with your chalk bag much, either.

Again, thanks for all the replies! Any other thoughts on how to carry H2O? Since it seems that I will not be buying a Camelback or other pure hydration pack, I will not need to get a hydration bladder. What do you all think is best?

The Osprey that I had back luck with was my wife's Aura. The material wore out VERY quickly. One of my climbing partners also had an Osprey, and had a similar experience with premature wear. That being said, I really liked their late 90's early 2000's product, but their current focus on light-weight materials seems to have reduced their durability... YMMV, but this has been my experience.

NC, get a bladder (seperate from the bag) and slip it inside the pack.

squiddo,

I agree. Any suggestions on what brand / model works best?

I use a 1.5 liter aquafina bottle with a little prussik cord girth hitched at the top and secured with a rubberband. I also wrapped a bunch of duct tape around it, you can clip it to your harness/pack, etc... just make sure u wash it every once in awhile...

NC,
I have owned several types of bladders and the one that I have found to work best is this Platypus:

cascadedesigns.com/platypus…

There are three reasons why I like this one. First, it opens up completely at the top so that it is very easy to clean, which is much nicer than having a small round opening like the CamelBak style bladders. Two, the hose disconnects from the bladder with a really nice connection point and you can do it even if the bladder is full. This makes for easy cleaning without wearing out the "stretch" of the hose that other bladders rely on for a tight connection between the hose and bladder. Third, and maybe most importantly, despite having these additional features, it is lighter than the comparable bladder from Camelbak. Also, the closure mechanism at the top does not leak. It closes first with a heavy duty dual zipper and then is fixed shut with the bar that goes over the top.

I've been using the REI Flash 18:

rei.com/product/778466

It's cheap, carries reasonably well, holds enough for 3-season multi-pitch outings, and it scrunches up small enough to easily shove into your crag pack. That said, it has no back panel, so your hydration pack will feel cold against your back (not so great when it isn't warm out), and bulky objects (i.e. approach shoes) need to be packed carefully.