Mountain Project Logo

Grivel G10 Crampons and boot compatibility question?

Original Post
Just Jennifer · · Hopkins, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 35

Anyone have these and if so, would they work for vertical ice climbing? I found a pair of these for $60. I seem to be limited to the crampons I can use with the La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX Mountaineering Boots I bought. Specs on that boot say they're hybrid crampon compatible and I'm not exactly sure what that mean. I did try them with the Black Diamond Cyborg's and they are not compatible with that type of Step-In crampon. Also, is this crampon good for ice climbing as a beginner? Lisa

Bobby Hanson · · Spokane Valley · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 1,230

Lisa, your boots are compatible with crampons that have heel bails, but not toe bails. They will also work with crampons that are straps all the way around.

Here is a "hybrid" crampon, the Grivel G12.



I'm not sure which Grivel G10s you are talking about, but if they are the Classic (have straps at the toe), then they should work fine.

As for vertical ice...they should work okay. I think most people use vertical front points (like on the BD Cyborgs) on waterfall ice these days, but I know several who like the horizontal points (like those on the G10s). On alpine ice and firm snow, the horizontal points are better.

What is your intended primary use for the crampons?

Edit:The G10 should be good for general mountaineering and moderate ice climbing.
Just Jennifer · · Hopkins, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 35

That was exactly the info I needed! My primary use will be lite to moderate ice climbing during my learning phase and some alpine use. I think the G10's will work well for my ascent of Rainier, so multifunctional for a while. I will likely by a better pair of crampons specifically for technical vertical ice climbs later as I become more advanced at the technique, but I think they should work ok for now. Thanks a ton!

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

At $60, the G10s are very attractive. They will probably serve you well as mountaineering crampons. They are not really designed for steep ice. The main reason is the secondary points, those behind the front points. In a 10-point crampon, those secondary points play a significant role in providing traction when the foot is placed flat on snow or ice. Therefore, they are rather vertical. Compare to the G12s. The secondary points are much more slanted. That allows them to work properly when frontpointing. You may have already heard people saying that an important aspect of ice climbing footwork is to drop your heels and engage the secondary points. With the G10s it is more difficult than with the G12s.

So, if you are going to get into ice climbing, you'll soon want another pair of crampons more suited to the task--both to minimize pump and to acquire good habits. The G10s will still be good for everything else involving snow or ice except running on frozen trails.

With this in mind, get the New Classic (strap on) bindings if possible. You will appreciate the flexibility that they provide. For steep ice, again, you'll want something else. If you also get another pair of boots, make sure they have toe and heel welts. Your Trangos lack the former, but other Trangos have both, have stiff soles, and are excellent ice climbing boots. If your boots then have both welts, get the Cramp-o-matic (step-in) binding on your ice climbing crampons. Otherwise, get the New Matic (hybrid).

My experience is that the one significant difference between the three types of binding is stiffness. Differences in weight, in the time required to put on and take off crampons, and in the probability of the crampons unexpectedly coming off are minor with the current bindings at the feet of a competent user.

Stiffness of the binding-to-boot connection is a moot point unless the sole of the boot is stiff to begin with. So, we'll assume that. The stiffer the connection, the more effective each kick is, because the majority of the momentum is carried by the leg/boot of the climber and that momentum is best transfered to the ice when the crampon is solidly attached to the boot. (And the boot is properly laced up.)

The step-in binding is better than the hybrid in that respect and the hybrid is much better than the strap-on.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

The G 10 is a moderate mountaineering Crampon. Its good for Walk up routes on glaciers. If you go to the Grivel web site they have a drawing there for how their crampons should be used. I would not recommend the G-10 for ice. If you can find a G-12 that would be a good crampon for both ice and mountaineering. or The G-14 is the best crampon. Both the G-12 and G-14 come in a New-matic set up. New-matic or semiautomatic are what you are looking for for the La Sportiva Trango S. Black Diamond makes the Sabretooth Clip, CAMP makes the Ice Rider semi-auto, Camp also has a new one out this year that would fit your boot, its not on their website yet. PETZL makes the Vasik leverlock or the Sarken Leverlock. All of these would fit your boots. I would look for the stiffest crampon that is a semi-auto that you can find to compensate for the fact that your boot is a 3/4 shank and not very stiff.

Steve Murphy · · Timnath, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 20

I have used the exact same set-up (Trango S and Grivel G10). They will be more than adequate for Rainier, however as others have pointed out they will leave you wanting more after your first day of ice. It is possible to climb fairly steep in them, but as a beginner you'll want a little more help. I know I did, at least.

When are you going to Rainier?

Steve

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90
Lisa Gignac wrote:That was exactly the info I needed! My primary use will be lite to moderate ice climbing during my learning phase and some alpine use. I think the G10's will work well for my ascent of Rainier, so multifunctional for a while. I will likely by a better pair of crampons specifically for technical vertical ice climbs later as I become more advanced at the technique, but I think they should work ok for now. Thanks a ton!
G10 + Trango S should be good for rainier. For ice, they are not good. Vertical ice needs the secondary points, as explained by brenta. If I remember correctly, Trango S is a soft sole boots, at least when I tried them on a few years back. I can't imagine kicking with them. Your best bet would be G12, I climbed WI4 with them and done rainier with them.
Just Jennifer · · Hopkins, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 35

Yeah, so most info that I've read here is to look for G12's or G14's if looking at Grivel's for ice climbing, is that correct?

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

If you want crampons that are very versatile and work with your current boots, the G12s with New-Matic bindings are excellent. I own a pair and I have only good things to say about them. If I were to retain only one pair of crampons, they would be the G12s. I have no first-hand (first-foot?) experience with the G14s, but people who own them are usually quite happy with them.

Just Jennifer · · Hopkins, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 35

I ended up buying the G12 new matic crampons new at REI and I couldn't be more pleased with the purchase. Thanks for all the input.

Lisa

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
Post a Reply to "Grivel G10 Crampons and boot compatibility ques…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.