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Easy ice climbs in the SLC/Ogden area

Original Post
Orphaned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 11,700

I have a friend who has never ice climbed before and wants to give it a try. I am trying to find more info on easy climbs in the Salt Lake City or Ogden area but the Little Cottonwood Canyon area could work too. If you can give me a general idea on how to get there, it would make my life much easier and I'll owe you extra gratitude :). I am mainly interested in waterfalls up to WI3 if multi pitch or up to WI4 if it can be top roped.

Thanks in advance.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,419
Sergio Colombo wrote:I am trying to find more info on easy climbs in the Salt Lake City or Ogden area but the Little Cottonwood Canyon area could work too. If you can give me a general idea on how to get there, it would make my life much easier and I'll owe you extra gratitude :). I am mainly interested in waterfalls up to WI3 if multi pitch or up to WI4 if it can be top roped.
Little Cottonwood pretty much is it for ice in Salt Lake City, specifically, the Great White Icicle. Not much else is in. Deservedly crowded, day and night. Be prepared for plenty of folks.

In Ogden, there's probably not much that fits your needs but up in Willard is the Willard Canyon Waterfall. Not sure what kinda shape its in this season. Its really fun, but, take care on any and all this stuff with the avy hazard.

Provo Canyon might be best. First pitch of Stairway to Heaven is really long, and, accomodates a gob of folks, and, has a reasonably short approach and is fairly easy to either lead and/or set a TR on.

I think all these routes are in the database here and easy to find.

Cheers!
Bobby Hanson · · Spokane Valley · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 1,230

A couple hours south is Joe's Valley.

  • The first pitch of CCC Falls is WI3-.
  • Donorcicle is WI4+/5-, but it is easy to walk up to set up a toprope.

I have taken first-timers there, no problem.

Here are links to Brian's suggestions:

You also might be able to find ice in Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6 Ice. Maybe.
BackCountry Sortor · · Ogden, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 400

I'm not an ice climber and don't know what it's rated, but there is the Malan's waterfall in Waterfall canyon. It's directly East of Mt. Ogden Golf Course. I see guys heading towards and away from there all the time. I've been up to check it out and it's a pretty substantial hunk of ice.

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

There's a thread on utahclimbers that might help you.

Ice and Snow

Malan's would not be a good choice for you.

Second what Brian says.

Base of Stairway, easy parts of Bridalveil give you plenty of single-pitch ice.

Willard is a fun little jaunt, you'll be alone, make sure you dial in the walkoff before you set out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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