Best Cracks at Red Rocks?

I'm taking a trip to Red Rocks for the first time over New Years. I've recently fallen in love with crack climbing and I'm looking for the best moderate cracks in the area: 5.7 to 5.10, finger to fist. Recommendations?

Ky

Wholesome Fullback. Awesome, but a stiff 10a for Red Rocks.

The Fox in Calico Basin has a big of everything and comes in at 10+.

Out of Control is another great 10 in Pine Creek. Also in Pine Creek are Straight Shooter (9), Topless Twins (9) and Mushroom People (10).

Red Zinger in Oak Creek is quality but kind of isolated.

Once you break into the 5.11s your choices are more numerous.

That's a tough grade range to find true crack climbs in Red Rocks (especially that aren't wider than fist). It's just too easy to cheat around most on face holds - or even never touch the crack...

Some more obscure ones with high quality crack climbing - as in hard-to-cheat-with-face-holds type crack climbing: (I picked these for good sunny winter exposure as well):

Joanne of Arch is a great crack at 5.9, but it's a bonus climb on top of doing one of the longer routes up at Windy Peak - I wouldn't hike there just for it. You can also do Diet Delight, then scramble up to Joanne of Arch, and Diet Delight has some good crack sections. The other detail for Joanne of Arch is to either rap from the anchor below the roof (top of pitch 2), or top out - the edge of the roof is SUPER sharp, and makes for a very dangerous rappel (since you have to get to the anchor under the roof over to the side).

Another good crack climb, flared fingers to hands, is High Anxiety on the Brownstone wall. Rated 5.10c, probably 5.10b in reality, but it will feel hard for the grade unless you are used to Joshua Tree or the Valley. Watch out for snow/ice in the descent gully, or bring 2 ropes and rap Pro-Choice/Pro-Life (better option if there's been snow lately). And if it's warm enough (or you get there before it goes in the shade) you can do Nightcrawler, which (while not exactly a crack climb) is an absolutely stunning corner climb, with bolts and smaller pro (and a chimney on one of the approach pitches).

Less obscure short stuff for the winter - some nice cracks on the Brass Wall, with Straight Shooter nearby.

Nobody has mentioned Atman yet? Short, but excellent thin to perfect hands.

camhead wrote:Nobody has mentioned Atman yet? Short, but excellent thin to perfect hands.

I'm not sure that I'd hike up that hill just to do Atman. Maybe if you hit it on the way to or from Sunny and Steep.

a few others--
some good crack pitches on Five Pack
thin fingers: Small Purchase
fairly pure for only 5.7: The Chamber of Secrets
a serious workout: Our Father

Frigid Air Buttress is a really nice crack climb in the range you mentioned. Link up the lower 5.5 chimney with the P4 hand-to-wide crack for one spectacular pitch. there are a few face holds useful for feet, but not enough to take away from the crack nature of the route. it's also no wider than hands or fists, really, ever, because the crack narrows in the back. after that you're treated to a nice "finger crack" finish. again, a couple face holds here, but also some nice fingerlocks. check it out - though i haven't climbed extensively at red rock, just a week, it was a great great route, and falls nicely into your grade range.

Frigid Air Buttress is great - that one is in Icebox canyon - but at New Years it can be a bit...uh....what's that word again?...oh yeah...frigid. Like being in an Icebox perhaps...

I'd second Greg's suggestion of Joanne of Arch. No sneaky face holds to help out on the crux, even though it's more of a layback.
But I'd throw in Mudterm and Lucky Nuts. "Two for one" as far as the approach up the hill, with other lesser known routes nearby.

+1 for Red Zinger. It is one of the best 5.10 Indian Creek style cracks at Red Rocks. A bit stiff for the 5.10 range you are looking for but oh so worthy.

The Nightcrawler (10b/c) on the Brownstone Wall in Juniper has some great crack climbing and is a not to be missed classic for a 5.10 leader.
mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

And another #1 for Atman.

Straight shooter was a pretty nice crack if you are in the area (its 1 pitch)

Have to second Black Widow Hollow, and the Walker Spur. the fingers past the crux is specactular. also, don't forget Lady Wilsons, if you're interested in the most prominent crack in RR. also, the schwa, which isn't any further of a walk than BVC. anyone done Allied Forces? looks like fun. also, just did Risk Bros. this morning. a bit harder than you're looking for, but is short (aids well) and a great way to get your tight #3s dialed in.

Don't forget about The Schwa!

This thing has always inspired me, but ive never done it. Those that I know who have highly recommend it. It is an 11a, so a bit harder then your request. Called The Warrior.

mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

I am thinking all you need is the Red Rock Odyssey book for your trip. Climb any of those routes and you will be stoked I am sure. Also Alage on Parade is surprisingly good.

verexpress.com/vp/rro.html

Thanks for all the beta, that will set me up well.

going to Red Rocks for Christmas. Recommendations of these routes that will be in the sun?

climberKJ wrote:going to Red Rocks for Christmas. Recommendations of these routes that will be in the sun?

Straight Shooter, Mushroom People, Topless Twins, Nightcrawler, Out of Control