Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Psicobloc: "Psycho Bouldering"
Follow topic:
Original Post
|
Boulder Daily Camera article found here."Deep water soloing" is the English term for climbing above the sea without a rope, but I prefer the European -- and much more pertinent -- name for this crazy climbing style. "Psicobloc," as they call it, literally means "psycho bouldering," which says it all. ... Psicobloc requires that you climb from the ground up on every attempt. There's no rope to rest on when the juice in your forearms dries up. There's no easy way to regain your high point or inspect the moves, and no climbing to the next bolt or gear placement for another rest. This is why psicobloc climbers scavenge as much beta (information about the climb) as possible from others before launching up a route. Among the people I climbed with in Mallorca, three of them had climbed 5.14, yet we all swapped -- and needed -- beta on the 5.10 and 5.11 warm-ups. Psicobloc, more than any other genre of our sport, tends to dissolve grades and egos by promoting dialogue between, and humbling, climbers of all levels. |
|
I loved the water and stone in Mallorca during our June trip. I have to admit, I saw some pretty bad flops onto the water and chose to take the coward's way out and planned my falls. I loved the climbing anyways, I was just not psycho enough. |
|
Marc, not trying to break rule #1, but in general it's considered bad form to repost something from another site in its entirety. Better to quote an excerpt and provide a link. |
|
I didn't realize that. I just find it annoying to always have to link to other sites--especially one that uses pop-unders. What you're saying makes sense though. |
