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Mad Rock Mad Lock belay device impressions

Original Post
Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,253

I'm curious if anyone here has had some experience with the Mad Rock Mad Lock belay device?



I just received one and after just a short bit of working with it, I'm not impressed. Maybe I just assumed or read to much into it, but this device is not an autoblock device as the name and appearance might imply. I was hoping it would make for a good replacement or competitor for my BD ATC Guide but that's definitely not the case.
In testing with my double 8.5mm and double 9mm ropes, the device does not lock off the rope like the ATC Guide or Reverso3 devices do.

The verbiage on the packaging explicitly states "In case of a fall, the body weight of the second might lock the rope in place." I don't like the term might at all when I'm talking about a device's effectiveness.

Also, the instructions state "The device is designed to belay one person at a time." Since I most frequently use my ATC Guide for belaying two seconds on 8.5mm ropes, this is clearly not the belay device for me.
I'm not trying to dissuade anyone from buying the device or bag on the Mad Lock but just wanted it to be clear to potential buyers what this device can and cannot do so someone doesn't end up assuming it's an autoblock device like any other...it's not.
Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,253

I did have the second pin in as it instructs. I didn't try removing it because it didn't even seem to be in the system (i.e. the rope wasn't even touching it.) It looks to me the issue is the lack of the notched "rope channel" (high friction side like the ATC guide and the Reverso3 have.)
I'll have time to take a closer look tonight (and remove the pin perhaps) but I don't think that will matter. I'll let you know.

Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

It seems, like many mad rock pieces, to be rather gimmicky and second quality compared to other brands' offerings. Sorry,I don't need a bottle opener on my belay deivce; I've already got one on my flip-flop.

I played with it in a store and didn't really care for the removable pin or the general feel of it. I think that a removable pin just seems to complicate things and the v-notch is a better option.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Wow, that looks like it would be great for self defense!

For an over-engineered belay device that may actually work the way you are describing, try a Simond Toucan. I picked one up recently for 15$, for that price I figured I would give it a try. Very snazzy, it decorates my harness nicely

It works pretty well but definitely not fun for fatter ropes, I prefer my reverso3.

tom selleck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 270

just use an atc and pay attention

these companies try to re-invent the fricken wheel so they can sell more sh$%! That is the only reason.

Tim M · · none · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 308

I have been surprisingly impressed with the Trango B 52. A simplified version of the ATC Guide or Reverso. Works great.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266
Evan1984 wrote: Sorry,I don't need a bottle opener on my belay deivce; I've already got one on my flip-flop.
So when your on your 3rd or 4th beer you take your attention off your climber, reach down, grab your flip flop and open your beer? This does not sound like responsible belay technique to me. I prefer to open my beer where I can keep an eye on my climber....
Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30
Rick Blair wrote: So when your on your 3rd or 4th beer you take your attention off your climber, reach down, grab your flip flop and open your beer? This does not sound like responsible belay technique to me. I prefer to open my beer where I can keep an eye on my climber....
Actually, the progression is:
1. Inch back towards the cooler until I'm just within reach.
2. Clove hitch brake strand around foot to lock off just in case my climber pops(i asked him if he was in a good stance, mind you).
3. Swish around in the water until I find a cold one.
4. Yell an insult to my leader about his choice of beer.
5. Curse to myself about how cold the water is and how I can barely form a fist with my hand anymore to grab the brake strand.
5. Use flip-flop to open beer.
6. Sip
7. Yell up, "okay, cool, you're good to go.

But to be honest, by my 3-4th beer, my climber sometimes end up by my feet anyway, so the flip-flop route is safer IMHO
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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