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Beal Ropes no Longer?

Original Post
Jon Cheifitz · · Superior/Lafayette, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 90

I just recieved word that Black Diamond is no longer selling Beal ropes on there behalf, and since Beal doesn't sell to North America currently, we may have a very difficult time getting hold of these ropes.

I am sad.
I am trying to get a Booster III 60m GoldenDry from them and they have sold out.

Anyone have info on this?

SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 790
cheifitj wrote:I just recieved word that Black Diamond is no longer selling Beal ropes on there behalf, and since Beal doesn't sell to North America currently, we may have a very difficult time getting hold of these ropes. I am sad. I am trying to get a Booster III 60m GoldenDry from them and they have sold out. Anyone have info on this?
Beal and PMI are pretty much the same rope. the only difference is Beal's factory is in France and PMI is in Georgia.

Same threads and all that jazz. PMI is Beal's little brother.

Try one out.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
SAL wrote: Beal and PMI are pretty much the same rope. the only difference is Beal's factory is in France and PMI is in Georgia. Same threads and all that jazz. PMI is Beal's little brother. Try one out.
That may be true. I don't know. But, the specs are quite different for a given diameter of rope. Are they really the same?
Jon Cheifitz · · Superior/Lafayette, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 90

I have to say I am rather supprised to hear you say they are pretty much the same. Are they sister companies or something of that nature?

Tits McGee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 260

I think petzl ropes are more similar in size and style...than PMI, but that's just my opinion.

Jon Cheifitz · · Superior/Lafayette, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 90

Doug what do I do?

SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 790

It is a fact.

Same ol same.

Beal's factory is in France. They are in fact under the same structure business. PMI is spun in Georgia.

Of course there patterns, weaves and colors are different. DIfferent speces for different markets.

Again same company.
If you trust Beal then you should trust PMI.

Sister companies is a good way to put it.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

From my understanding of Beal from talking to some stores last year is that they have less of a resilient sheath as opposed to say a petzl or mammut, and it's this less burley sheath that allows for a softer catch. This supposedly makes them less of a work horse than some other ropes, but a favorite with sport climbers.

That being said I have not climbed on a beal, but do own a PMI Spire and I like it very much.

How about these links below? Seems to be the rope you're looking for.

justropes.com/ClimbingRopes…
alpenglowgear.com/gear/inde…

Tits McGee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 260
cheifitj wrote:Doug what do I do?
Max out a credit card on all of the Beal ropes you think you will need for the next five years...By then Beal should have another NA distributor and you can renew your ropes.

i.e. BD dropping Scarpa and then Scarpa forming a NA group.
SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 790
Tits McGee wrote: By then Beal should have another NA distributor and you can renew your ropes. i.e. BD dropping Scarpa and then Scarpa forming a NA group.
Not likely. At least for some time. To my knowledge at least, discussions were had alraedy but nothing came of them.

PMI is going to be launching a new 9.9mm cord this summer that is really nice and should fit a lot of niches for people.
Unless you were a fan of the 9.1 :) :)
Tits McGee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 260
SAL wrote: Not likely. At least for some time.
SAL - Five years is a long time. I would hope somebody would pick up the Beal distribution by then...Shame to think Beal has gone the way of the dodo in NA.
Jon Cheifitz · · Superior/Lafayette, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 90

Scott,
I know that the rope is still available from stores around and on Spadout. I was trying to get it directly from the vendor at a big discount, which sadly is not likely to happen.

I also hope that someone picks up Beal as a distributor in NA, they make some great quality gear. I really like my other Beal lines.

My second choice for a rope was a Petzl, but I have to do some research again and look into PMI a little more.

Tits, you will probably be helping.

SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 790
Tits McGee wrote: SAL - Five years is a long time. I would hope somebody would pick up the Beal distribution by then...Shame to think Beal has gone the way of the dodo in NA.
Yeah. It is. Who knows what will come of them.given the tight relationship the two companies have its not a bad alternative. I climb on the 9.4 and 9.7 and love them both. I did get a chance to check out there new 9.9 and its sweet.
Lynn S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 1,425

Check out Sterling ropes, very nice cords. 9.8 Velocity is a nice everyday rope, excellent handling and seems very durable so far.

For a skinny single the 9.5 Ion is perfect for long routes, superlight, sweet feel.

I used to climb on Beal ropes and moved onto Sterling and no regrets.

Phoenix · · louisville, colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 310

It is my opinion that we will see the return of some companies (Grivel, Beal, etc.) to NA before too long. Don't forget, we are in a world-wide recession. I'll bet that when things finally return to "normal" they will come back. I loved my Booster III passionately, now retired. I am thinking of getting a rope called "The Diamondback" (Due to a sweet weave pattern) I think sterling makes it, but can't say for sure. I do know that I used one this winter, and it was quite nice.

EDIT: LynnS' suggestion could be the one.
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Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 85

I owned and retired a 10mm Beal and currently climb on a 9.7mm PMI, I can't honestly say that I notice much of a difference in the ropes other than weight. Both have about the same hand, can't speak to the durability of the PMI, I haven't had it for that long.
cheers, BA

no1nprtclr · · Front range Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 55

Mammut!!!

I bought one Beal rope about three or so years ago, one fall on that thing and I immediately went back to Mammut. Turned the Beal into a rope mat for the front door to wipe your feet before coming in the house: washed up pretty decent at the car wash!!

Mytwopennies.
Juan

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
Lynn S wrote:Check out Sterling ropes, very nice cords. 9.8 Velocity is a nice everyday rope, excellent handling and seems very durable so far. For a skinny single the 9.5 Ion is perfect for long routes, superlight, sweet feel. I used to climb on Beal ropes and moved onto Sterling and no regrets.
Second that.

I had Beal Edlinger and loved it for about a month. The sheath wore out very fast and it slipped so that it would bind up in my ATC.

I had a Mammut rope that someone gave me... don't know the model but it was at least a 10.2. Very stiff rope and kinked a lot... I hated it but I have to say I felt that rope could hold a tractor trailer up.

Sterling Marathon Pro 10.1 Best rope you can get for all around rope. Heavy duty enough to TR my friends on, but light enough to send stuff. Best feeling rope I've ever touched. Takes a beating too. I climb full time, I fall a lot, and often take friends climbing who TR very badly. After a year, it is almost like new.

Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8 I haven't climbed sport or taken a fall on it yet, but I already love it. It's a bit stiffer than the Marathon, but only to a point that it's a good thing. It is still a good workhorse rope if your red pointing stuff, but I bought it for trad.
Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,102

"Soft Catch?" More like No catch... Worst rope I ever owned.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

I've really liked Beal ropes over the years mainly due to their soft hand and low impact forces. I have to say though that my last two sets of Ice Lines developed very bad cases of sheath-slip after relatively minimal use. I periodically still use a 9.7mm Booster III and haven't had any problems with it.

Lately though I'm really liking the Metolius "Monster" ropes. Their 7.8mm twin/doubles are pretty amazing. Very durable especially considering their diameter and they have the best water-proofing of any rope I've ever used. I also bought one of their 9.8mm ropes this spring before a JTree trip. I abused it pretty heavily and it still looks like new. OTOH, like most Metolius products, they're very proud of them and don't let them go cheaply.

Mammut makes very high quality ropes but I find them a bit on the stiff side (I own several of these too) and don't care for their very high impact force ratings much.

tooTALLtim · · Vanlife · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,806

I've used my Beal 10.2 for two and a half years now, and am just now retiring it. It was my go to for a single rope.

It has no significant sheath damage (nothing remotely concerning), and little sheath slip (which happened just recently, ~3" of slip). It still does stretch like a mo'fo, but I've never ledged/grounded out. I'm sad because it will now become my gym rope, and possibly be cut in two.

I have a New England Glider I used for half a summer, and have sitting in wait because it took so much sheath damage in such a short time.

Trying out a Petzl rope now....with crossed fingers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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