Sedona: splitter training for Indian Creek

I've been thinking about heading up to Indian Creek but I'm intimidated by its splitter sandstone cracks of continuous size. Does anyone know of moderate routes in Sedona that might help get my head ready for the IC climbing style? Appreciate any advice.

Try The Forks.

Yep, second The Forks and even The Overlook. Not much but a pitch or two in Sedona. Like the second pitch of Dr. Rubo's.

Another basalt area, the oak creek waterfall is similar to the forks but mostly 10 and 11 cracks. How difficult is the range you are looking for?

Craig Randleman wrote:I'm intimidated by its splitter sandstone cracks of continuous size. ...'moderate routes'...

Moderate routes, perfect. Then the waterfall should be fine.

If you're gonna climb a moderate at IC, what grade do you think you should be prepared for? 5.7? Then head to the overlook for that. If you are preparing for IC moderates then you should be prepared for 5.10s at least. I feel that the area dictates the mean level of climbing you should be prepared for.

manuel rangel wrote:If you're gonna climb a moderate at IC, what grade do you think you should be prepared for? 5.7? Then head to the overlook for that. If you are preparing for IC moderates then you should be prepared for 5.10s at least. I feel that the area dictates the mean level of climbing you should be prepared for.

I concur. Be prepared for 5.10 at the minimum for IC splitter fun.

Check out "Isaiah" at the Overlook. It's 5.9, but a beautiful splitter, and arguably more sustained than any of the 5.10 Trinity Cracks. Definitely a good lead into Indian Creek-style.

Thanks for the route suggestions. Yea, I'm hoping to climb 10s in IC just based on the fact that the higher in the grades you can climb, the more routes you can climb, right? I'll head to the Forks and Overlook and report back in a few weeks.

Don't be too intimidated by the Creek. 5.10s there are way less scary than 10s in Sedona, or even the Forks for that matter. More of a matter of fitness and learning the crack size, then doing that same move over and over again. Plus the gear is usually perfect at the creek, if you pump out and take the whipper, no big deal.

I think most people will see a jump in their numbers the first time they go to the creek. If you normally lead 10- you probably will be able to send 10 or even 10+ at the creek.

Andy Kaufman Crack, The Hurricane, Rusty Cage, The Dodger, how about Dr. Rubos Wild Ride.... there's plenty of crack climbing in Sedona! I know there's more?

Dont be scared the Sandstone is only kind of soft. HEE HEE... you will leave with sand in your hair and mouth, and in your nose ears and brain until you cant see straight and the thought of running it out 10' makes you nauseated... as you watch the lobes of your cams dig into the rock. When you leave you will get this sick feeling that you have to come back for more and cannot get enough of that crazy sand?

I personally would go to Indian Creek to get my head ready for Sedona.

Creek climbing is as close to sport as trad gets! In other words, don't be intimidated by grades, since safety is rarely an issue. Most routes take gear literally anywhere along the route. IMO, most routes in the 5.9-5.11 range don't have 1 particular crux, the hardest part is making it to the anchor before running out of steam.

Also, I don't care for anything below 5.10 at IC. Maybe I'm just a grade-snob, but the few 5.9s I've been on tend to be off-width, and I hate wide cracks. Speaking of that, somebody needs to name an offwidth 'Hotdog in a Hallway'. Anywho, in general, cracks get smaller as grade increases.

There is an offwidth named Hotdog in a Hallway, in Sedona. Or.. a chimney rather.

And.. Totally agreed. Many Creek 10's are totally classic. Very few of the 9's could make that claim.

Bunny Slope would be an exception.

The best training for Indian Creek is to take a rubber mallet to your feet, starting right now! Start with short hammer blows and work up longer ones. By the time you head up there, your feet should be numb to the pain.

To the pain,

JF

I think you would be blowing it if you did not go do Andy Kaufman Crack, Rusty Cage Poster claims this is the "Indian Creek" Splitter of Sedona mountainproject.com/v/arizo… and Check out The Hurricane! They are amazing cracks, and have gear all over them, hence the crack. There is bolted anchors on them and you could Aid your way through a move or two should you get suck. You can top rope them after you attain the anchor. Also, highly recommend Dr. Rubo's do the 1st and 2nd pitch and bail if you like. The second is the most amazing hand crack and a wonderful position on an amazing formation. Climbing in Sedona does not have to be dangerous and could be just as if not more rewarding than a good day in the Creek.

The Mace is super safe, as well as the well bolted Sedona Scenic Cruise... start climbing the classic 5.9 towers and you will soon be a Sedona Addict... The sand its like better than "drugs" it makes you high!

mattso wrote:I personally would go to Indian Creek to get my head ready for Sedona.

I'm ROLFLMAO...

Wait, that's not funny, it's true.

FUNGUY wrote: ...So most of us are climbing splitter cracks that are 5.10 and 5.11. Riiiiiiiiight!

At Indian Creek? Yes!

FUNGUY wrote: ...A Rock and Ice poll found that the majority of climbers top out at 5.9.

Regardless of some magazine poll, if you go to The Creek and ask some of the regulars to point out a good moderate, you will likely be pointed to a 5.10.

mattso wrote:I personally would go to Indian Creek to get my head ready for Sedona.

Heh heh. So true.

The Forks, Overlook, of Waterfall area are great for getting you ready.
Stick to 9s and 10s as much as possible.
Try jaming in the crack as much as possible and not using face holds as much.
Not all routes in IC have features to grab and rest on while placing pro.
I did a lot of climging at the Forks before I went to IC my first time. Seemed to help a lot.