Spectra cord

How safe is this stuff to use as slings? I have heard horror stories of if cutting through itself when looped, etc. Anyone have any advice?

First question is why? and how do you plan to implement the spectra.

I say why cause there are some many good presewn slings out there, nylon, dyneema, etc that are rated to the CE minimum of 22kn for 7 or 8 bucks. If you buy spectra are you going to tied a knot? As you know knots reduce strength of all materials 40-60% depending on type and quality of knot. Spectra is not unique in this way. This still is not a major issue since @ 50% reduction spectra will still be stronger than most cams and nuts, but again, why. You have to check the knot periodically. Spectra is rather slick and can untie when not weighted, knots are bulky and less reliable over time. Perhaps you have seen the tests on knot strength:

caves.org/section/vertical/…

I don't use spectra anymore for anchors. Despite is high strength rating it has very little dynamic properties (like steel). For anchors, I use nylon in an equalette configuration (not cordalette anymore) or the rope. For slings, I stick to presewn. The stitching is stronger and more reliable than any knot, less bulky too.

edit: spectra and dyneema are the same. just different trade names.

I was considering using it (pre-sewn) to make yosemite draws with. It's just less bulky than normal slings. But is does feel really stiff and harsh, and no one I know with a lot experience climbing uses it. I was just wondering what other people had to say. As far as what I was referring to as "looping" I meant like slinging a tree or horn with it.

For looping trees and slinging various things consider biners versus girth hitches to extend regarless of the material. If you need extra length consider attaching two slings with biners. If girth itch is your only option know its limitations. It is probably fine for modest lead falls.

Evan Simons wrote:I was considering using it (pre-sewn) to make yosemite draws with. It's just less bulky than normal slings. But is does feel really stiff and harsh, and no one I know with a lot experience climbing uses it. I was just wondering what other people had to say. As far as what I was referring to as "looping" I meant like slinging a tree or horn with it.

I have been using it to make " Yosemite draws " for years and have never had a problem. I like the fact that it's so thin 8mm. Once you use it for a while the stiffness goes away.

If you are using presewn spectra for your slings than most of what I mentioned above isn't really pertinent except spectra is not unique in its ability to cut itself. I use 8mm dyneema which probably isn't any better than spectra with the exception of the stiffness that Robert mentions.

Just FYI, spectra and dyneema are the same thing- gel spun ultra high molecular weight polyethylene. "Dyneema" is the trademark name for it from DSM and "spectra" is the trademark name from Honeywell.

Link

Aric Datesman wrote:Just FYI, spectra and dyneema are the same thing- gel spun ultra high molecular weight polyethylene. "Dyneema" is the trademark name for it from DSM and "spectra" is the trademark name from Honeywell. Link

Thanks. I thought that may be the case.