Gear Review - Petzl Sama harness

This is a review for the latest version of the Petzl Sama, an all-around, non-adjustable leg loop harness. I recently updated to this from the previous version of the Sama, which had been my favorite harness to date in a long line of Petzls. I was very pleased with it, and ordered the new one sight unseen (unaware that it had been updated). I have about 50 pitches on the new one. There were substantial changes in the new version and I'll try to address them, good and bad.

First, the Sama (all pics linked from Petzl's site):

and the old version for comparion:



The first thing you notice on this harness is the mesh construction. It looks cheap and delicate, especially on the outside. The lining on the belt is also a type of wicking mesh fabric with a thin foam backing that is comfortable, but also on the delicate side. The harness is constructed using what Petzl calls "frame technology" which is really just using the outer edges as the load bearing part allowing mesh in the middle, rather than a continuous strip of webbing in the middle, a major change from the old version. Most of the waist is also narrower than before, particularly at and around the front of the hips, but close to the same at the back. It doesn't seem to affect how it feels while hanging, and may give slightly more mobility than before. There is a haul loop, and two slots in some of the non-mesh sections of the belt to add Petzls "carritool" ice screw/tool clipper. The slots for ice accessories seems like a useless feature on this harness, given than almost everyone will prefer an adjustable leg loop model for ice and alpine. But since it only involves cutting a couple slots in the hypalon type material there, why not?



The buckle is a slightly smaller version of the prior Petzl double back buckle, which is adjustable with one hand and always doubled back (you can completely unthread it if necessary). This is a must-have feature on a harness for me. I won't even consider one where I have to double-back the belt. The operation of the buckle seems smoother and easier than my old one. That could be due to webbing fuzzing/wear on the old one, or the new buckle being slightly smaller. It is easy to adjust with one hand though, as advertised.

There are four gear loops, with the front two being rigid plastic covered with cloth/web and angled slightly forward, and the rear two being soft and flat. This has been a good feature carried over from the old version, it's especially nice if you find yourself chimneying and squeezing up slots. However, all four of the loops are smaller than the prior version, and it is noticeable. I typically rack on the harness except for wide stuff, and it would be a stretch to get a double set of tiny to cups/fists along with some nuts and draws all on these loops.

The swami tie-in point is much less rigid than the prior version, and seems like it has less material overall there. While the load bearing part of it is essentially the same, it somehow inspires less confidence and seems like it will wear faster than the prior version. Frankly, this change baffled me and was the first negative thing I noticed.

The leg loops have some padding which is perforated for breathability, and an elasticized triangle at the front that is very well executed to add some flex to the loops. You may notice that the leg loops are kind of small. I've got skinny legs and still find that I've got the waist cranked way down and the leg loops are perfect in my size. People with stout quads may have issues fitting this harness. While the waist tie in point seems less burly, the leg loop tie in point is substantially beefed up from before.



The drop seat works ok. It has definitely been improved from the old version which slotted into a too-tight slot in the belt. You can see the attachement here, which is easy enough to release in a hurry:



So after about 50 pitches in this thing, my inital impressions were confirmed. Hanging or falling in it seems about the same as any other all-around harness I've worn. The screen mesh on the oustide of the waist does seem to help with ventilation, most notably if there's a breeze, but it is fairly delicate and getting shredded already (but I also do more squeeze than most folks). The lining is wearing better than I'd anticipated, but has had a couple of snags. The smallish gear loops haven't been an issue so far, mainly because I haven't been using it for long routes with a double set.

I got this on sale for $50, it retails around $60. For the money, it's fine. It seems like everytime Petzl gets it right, they discontinue/update/change. Plenty of people still think the Jump was the perfect harness, and I feel similarly about the prior version of the Sama. It was everything I wanted, executed reasonbly well. The updated version will have a shorter life span and has some noticeable differences that aren't always better.

I guess the bottom line is: Would you recommend it to a friend? I've gotta go with "no", although it would probably make a good dedicated sport climbing rig. But for the all arounder who is just as likely to be squirming up slots as clipping bolts on the steeps, there are better things out there for not much more money.

I have used it for about a year now. It was my go to Eldo trad harness for about six months before I purchased the Arcteryx R-320 - Gear Review - ARC'TERYX WST Harnesses. Currently, I use the Petzl Sama as a indoor gym harness and for occasional light aid jobs (e.g., jugging fixed lines, cleaning fixed gear, etc...). Been a solid harness. I wouldn't try to use it for multi day aid or ice climbing. The small gear loops are the only weakness I am aware of.

Ditto, bought this to become my indoor gym harness and have only one complaint. The stitching on the elastic webbing tail holder quickly tore out. Otherwise the harness is comfy, lightweight and perfect. Putting it to use outside and for anything other than sport might yield a different result.