Mountain Project Logo

steep trad routes in the Front Range (and Vedauwoo)

Original Post
Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,023

I'm interested in generating a list of steep, well-protected trad routes (or pitches of longer routes) in the Front Range and Vedauwoo. Routes that are continuously steep are of most interest but big roofs are also fun. Perhaps a list could be made for each grade from 5.8 to 5.11. I don't climb 12s or harder yet but those could be included for completeness.

Here are a few I can think of off the top of my head:

10- to 10+: Kloof, Quivering Quill
11- to 11+: Supremacy Crack, last pitch of Vertigo, Spectreman

Others?

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

A few I can think of at Vedauwoo are

Teds Trot only 5.7 but very worthwhile
Sore-a-pod 5.8
1st pitch Captain Nemo 5.8
1st pitch poohs corner 5.9
Plumb line 5.9
1st pitch Friday the 13th 5.10a
Lichen Lung 10+
Mud in your Eye 10+
Big Pink Solid 11
Automotive Supply Warehouse 11c/d

Theres tons and tons more at vedauwoo.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

Yeah Baby YEAH!
I can't just sit here and lurk on a thread about steep jamcracks!

Eldo doesn't have a lot of continuous steep cracks, but it has more than a few fun roofs, and a few steep lines. Here are some I can think of.

  • Rastaman Roof (9+) is a fun varriation of Reggae that gives you an opportunity to go horizontal:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/105944794
  • Initial Overhang (10a) has a short strenuous steep section.
  • Jam Con (10a) gives a brief section of fun steepness above Morning Thunder (9+).
  • Futile Laments (5.9) is steep and is also one of the best obscure Eldo routes from the old days. Starting from lower Kings X (10c)gives you an opportunity to stay steep for a long time and keep at it. Check out the pics: That photo is **NOT** tilted.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/106138280
mountainproject.com/v/color…
  • I will mention King's X (10d) for having a steep section or two:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/106145048
  • Dreams of Darkness (9+) and Dreams Of Light (10a) both have some nice steep sections, but they have short roofs, not steeps:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/105944425
  • Born Under Punches (10a) is barely over vertical for a good part of it's length, but will feel over very, due to the leaning angle of the crack. There is a roof up top for you as well.
  • Sooberb (10c) is a nice stepp crux, as is the climb
  • Whiplash (10c) up the hill above Xanadu offers several meters of steep:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/105946702
  • Midnight Trundler (10c?) has a nice steep section to a roof with a good solid 5.10 sandbag grade, and is pretty fun! Try not to giggle when you hanf your partner the sharp end and tell him it was oigionally rated 5.10a.
  • Electric Aunt Jemima (10b/c) and Art's Spar (11-) have opportunity to jam some steep territory.
  • Self Abuse (10c/d) has some steepness to it throughout, but is not hard untill the big roof:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/1200339
How can anyone forget to mention the final pitch overhang on...
  • Psychosis? (10d) It's more than a body length. The middle varriation of 3 Old Farts Young At Heart (10d) will toss you a small roof warm-up.
  • Bat's Ass Dihedral (11a) is a vertical corner finishes into a nice big roof with jamming...
  • On-Slot (11-) has a nice steep section of OW that will make you work hard. There is a bolt, but a big cam also works.
  • Upper Cest La Vie (11b) is a good slick steep corner for more than just a few moves.

Ready for the REAL overhangs?
  • Bacon And Ergs (5.11) is leadable with the right pro. Hope you ate your wheaties:
http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/1204434_904f2f.jpg
  • What will they put on your Tombstone (11a)? The word "steep?":
http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/105942806_7bf53c.jpg
  • Muscle and Hate (11a) is a consistently overhanging and feels like it. It's short, but if you cap P1 of Practice Climb 101 (11a) with P2 of Sidewall (11a) and then do M&H (11a), you'll have climbed 3 vert-to-stepp pitches of 11a:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/1200879
  • Neon Lights (11a) is well protected on P2, where you will find one of the longest sections of very steep crack in Eldo:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/106216629
  • Wingshot (11b) has a similar angle, but is a little trickier, 'cause you can't get your hands in it:
http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/105944795_a9b701.jpg
  • The Diving Board (11a) you just can't forget, nor the upper pitches of The Naked Edge(10d)???:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/1200607
  • Mellow Yellow (11+) has two pitches with some overhang worth really considering. The gear is spaced, but quite good.
Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? · · Vegas · Joined May 2005 · Points: 4,115

Jeeesus, T!

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270

Check out Turkey Rock. Plenty of fun for the "Hard Man", looking for challenging crack climbs. Good Luck.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

Perhaps most overlooked area in the world of overhangs is the Flatirons. Perhaps the new book, due out in 2009... (Summer? Well, before October Anyway.)

The Flatirons have backsides like the fronts... but in reverse.

Consider the following:

  • The West Face (10b) of the 3rd Flatiron has a goodly amount of steep with rests thrown in. I must discalim that there are some runouts at 5.9- or so:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/1206797
  • Northwest Passage (10b) is a less-good version of the same sort of thing, but with a shorter crux:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/1201842
  • Euclid's Corner (5.10) has a long section of steep fun and physical climbing:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/106124150
  • Stone Love (10d) for which I have no pics to offer (but look in the next guidebook) is a personal favorite. The second pitch is a pretty sustained overhang, first over, then up!
  • Same goes for Hand Crack (5.9+) (misnamed - take gear to 4") on the Box. It overhangs a good deal of the way and is pretty physical.
  • Burger Madness (10b) wiull throw a few steep sections at you: mountainproject.com/v/color…
and a few yards furhter up the hill,
  • Far Out (10d) has an overhang/roof like few others... it's long enough to consider sustained. The runout is easier climbing:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/106032194
Actually, come to think of it, there is another, longer and harder...
  • Super Power (11+) should get you feeling overhung:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/106032200
  • Death And Transfiguration (11-) kind of goes without saying, but I'll say it:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/105951022
  • Real Men DOn't Eat Quiche (5.11) has seen a second ascnet, but not a 3rd, of which I am aware. Crafty gear is needed, but it need not be dangerous, and was recleaned by another party:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/105949965
IF you can find a good way to get to the good climbing, then try...
  • Under The Influence (5.11) but it is gaurded by trash rock from below... maybe we didn't find the right way to the overhangs/roof:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/105871571
  • South Crack on the Maiden (5.11-), and West Face on the Maiden (5.11). I'm just sayin, ya know- now there is some steep rock there!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/105874400

OK, sonce I love obscure stuff...
  • 3rd Eye (5.9+++), in Skunk Canyon felt steep for a long way if I remember right. There is some junk rock, but there is ample protection.
  • Death and Disfiguration is a gut-buster crux through an overhang/roof.
  • Kent's Crack is a 12a, and I know you didn't ask for 12a, but it's a TR. Give it a try?
  • Half Man, Half Beast (12-) protects overhead at the beginning of the crux and you finish with pro at your knees:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/flatirons/105839252
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

BOCAN!
Boulder Canyon has a few Steeps, some more traversing under something then facing it headlong, but noless, they are and indeed feel Steep.

  • Left Wing (10c+) was the very fisr thing that came to mind when you said "steep" and I thought Bocan:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105839845
  • Umph Slot (5.10?) came next, and I grimmaced momentarily:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/james_beissel/106267036
but how much ado can we make of 6 feet of rock, even if it takes 38 moves?
  • What's Up (10d) has a nice roof on the top of P1, and some other overhanging moves as well.
  • Athlete's Feat (11a) is not an overhang at the crux, but subsequent pitches will toss plenty of 5.10 bulges at you:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/1206667
  • Country CLub Crack (5.11) is a few meters away:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105838089
  • Pass Fail Option (5.11) has a truely large overhang/roof, and just a stone's throw to the left:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105948945
imglarge.mountainproject.co…
  • While Polyester Leisure Suit (11a) not far away has a smaller one a few meters further:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/1318291
  • Thumb Tack (11d) is a bit of an obscure favorite. Be ready to go for it!:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105949001
It is a hell of a lot steeper than it looks!

Steeps... ahh, steeps! Can you tell who started crack climbing in Red River Gorge and in overhanging limestone canyons? Well, that's all I can think of off the top of my head. If you head anywhere else in the country, I can probably name a few other favorites. It's the steeps I like, because they do not require any footwork.
Brian Adzima · · San Francisco · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 560

I like Atlas Shrugged at Castle rock it is overhanging and sustained, but it does not climb like a trad route, and it has bolts. Its probably a stretch to consider it 'well' protected too. Pass/Fail option is short, but fun. I have yet to get it clean and am running out of people to sucker into following it.

Lumpy has some steep stuff if you look around: the Book of the dead, and the little twin owls finger crack come to mind.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,540

-piece of cake (11c) at turkey tail. short but stout.
mountainproject.com/v/color…
-whimsical dreams (11c) at turkey tail has a steep spot.
mountainproject.com/v/color…

not trad, but mixed routes. It looked like there are a lot of steep routes at Thunder ridge in the platte. even adventure like. I've done a few there and they are reall fun. the for real canyon is cool too.
mountainproject.com/v/color…

hung like a horse (11) at reynolds hill in vedauwoo. thats pretty sweet.
mountainproject.com/v/wyomi…

  • ****equinox roof (11++) at sunshine wall in the platte.******
now that suckers steep. pro is interesting, but not run out
mountainproject.com/v/color…

there is a steep pitch on turf spreader (11-) on cynical pinnacle.

toot (10c) on the book at lumpy feels pretty steep when your on it.
mountainproject.com/v/color…
fat city (10c) on the book.
mountainproject.com/v/color…

uhh thats about all i got..
sorry if my linking skills dont work. i dont know how to do that
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
Tony Bubb wrote:BOCAN! Boulder Canyon has a few Steeps, some more traversing under something then facing it headlong, but none the less, they are and indeed feel Steep. Left Wing (10c+) was the very first thing that came to mind when you said "steep" and I thought Bocan: )
The most wicked approach ever. Totally a full 200 yards from the parking lot. What a great route. I was onsighting waaay harder and this little sucker made me whimper. It is a Jeff Lowe route and that might explain some things tho. Great suggestion Tony!

Watch out for this and Kloof Roof, totally sandbag 5.10's, IMO. But worth it.

If you need a place to crash and you aren't a chainsaw freak, PM me.
kirra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 530
Gigette Miller wrote:Jeeesus, T!
G ~ Tony's been celebate.. now counting down to celebrate
John Maurer · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 545

Toot, on the Book is pretty fun and takes solid gear. It's short and something of an anomaly on Lumpy. Okay, it's steep for Lumpy 10c. Not sure why it comes to mind . . . bouldery cruxes (3 - 10b/c, 10b, 10a), surrounded by longer classics so it's a good option when weather is threatening, pretty solid rock . . . agreed?

I'd also recommend the 3rd pitch of Joy and Tribulation on the Bookmark - either take Fantasy Ridge or Sidewinder to get to it. Remember, it's Lumpy, not Rifle.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677
kirra wrote: G ~ Tony's been celebate.. now counting down to celebrate
Well, as they say,
"Abstinance makes the heart grow fonder..."

Brian Adzima wrote: Lumpy has some steep stuff if you look around: the Book of the dead, and the little twin owls finger crack come to mind.
Heck yeah... "Fist Fight" (10d) comes to mind:
mountainproject.com/v/color…
Might feel more like Rifle than Lumpy.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

tony's list is pretty thorough, a couple more that i didn't see in his list (although i might have missed them)

eldo - supremacy crack. short approach, short climb, but statistically dense.

bocan - momentum operator, near castle rock. steep hands, bouldery.
- trash it and move on (mix of bolts and gear if i remember)
- momentus fist trainer, next to momentum operator
- crack of desperation (OW roof, great route on the Vampire)
- spectre, hands through roof at black widow slab
- coffin crack at castle rock, really good and steep
- final exam, castle rock, feels pretty steep

vedauwoo - flying butress (probably already mentioned)
- 2nd pitch of friday the 13th
- jay's solo, feels steeper than it looks, great route
- plumb line, short, steep, nice hand crack
- slash, and gash, both on backside of reynolds
- upper left slot on nautilus
- bat heaven on nautilus
- skull on poland hill
- proctologist at end of road rocks

platte - quivering quill, slightly overhanging
- turkey turd, hands through roof
- wadamudafuka, slightly overhanging start, great OW roof
- in search of unicorns, slightly overhanging
- whimsical dreams, roof at the end
- bad ju-ju. you'll crap when you see it
- central corner at the top of skinner mountain, hands/roofs

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677
slim wrote:bocan - momentum operator, near castle rock. steep hands, bouldery. - momentus fist trainer, next to momentum operator
Here here...
And Crack-Up, the 5.9 there is also pretty steep. But unfortunately Crack-up is dirty as well, or at least it was in 2003, guano. Maybe they've moved on? Still, that's 3 steeps within 50 feet of rock. Good suggestion.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

good call tony, both of those 5.9 cracks to the right of momentum operator are good and steep.

ben, how could we forget the drumstick!

another good one that is kind of steep and has a little roof is B-G crack at vedauwoo (nautilus). good route.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Ya ! Spectreman also check out Moonsault and both pitches of Friday the 13th.

Tim C · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 215

Now here is a thread to get me pumped up for climbing! I want to go do that calypso-Rastaman Roof Link right now!

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

a few more that i thought of last night.

bocan - erickson's crack, up high on blob rock
- conan, up high on east side of blob
- extreme, next to conan
- comeback crack, at castle rock feels steep.

vedauwoo - first pitch of horn's mother
- roofis, up on hassler's hatbox
- both of the torpedo tubes feel steep
- ghost dance, might be slightly overhanging, feels steep.
- medium cool, slightly overhanging, great route
- pentacost 5755, feels steep
- raised on robbery, A-frame dihedral, steep.
- "I" crack, behind reynolds, slightly overhanging, sustained

platte - 2nd pitch of mississippi half step is slightly overhanging and sustained. one of the very best routes in the platte.
- uncle sam's jam, upper east side of sunshine, hands roof
- wunch's dihedral, the dihedral pitch overhangs one side

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
slim wrote:- raised on robbery, A-frame dihedral, steep.
The roof really isn't that steep, because you have to climb it like a chimney, which makes it different. After that, its vertical or just a touch slabby all the way to the chains.

Still, definitely worth doing.

And Skull, which has already been mentioned. Crazy steep considering that its only 10a.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

steepthroat, on the nautilus is kind of similar, where you are kind of chimneying, but it still feels steep. vedauwoo abounds with these types of routes, where you are inching up slowly, trying to postpone hanging on your arms. i like these types of routes.

oh yeah, another good, short, steep route at vedauwoo is public whipping post. it packs a lot of variety into a short distance. dense!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "steep trad routes in the Front Range (and Vedau…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.