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Best Boulder winter cragging

Original Post
Rainbow Weinstock · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 85

The title should say it all but...
I've been climbing on and off in Boulder for a handful of years, but rarely find myself here in the winter. Where are the best walls in Eldo and Boulder Canyon to climb in the winter that stay dry and warm (ish). I like 5.10- 5.12 sport or trad. Preferably someplace that has some worthy projects. I know that the West Ridge in Eldo up to the Rincon are good, but I'm looking for some places new to me. I've explored Boulder Canyon very little and I am guessing there are walls there that are the ticket. With less daylight, non-mondo approaches are a bonus. Brownie points if you can say what time of day they are in the sun. And yes, I know about Indian Creek and Shelf, so I'll save you the typing and quips. I'm looking local.

Cheers,
Rainbow

Kat A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 515

The admins have done a nice job of reorganizing the Boulder Canyon area on this site - you can see the list of crags by north or south facing. Plotinus Wall (Upper Dream Canyon) or Blob Rock might have the types of routes you're interested in, and they get sun in the winter. Mickey Mouse wall is also a great place.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

Not the best climbing around, but a few good climbs, and probably the harder ones will be free. Table Mountain.

Olaf Mitchell · · Paia, Maui, Hi, · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 4,190

If your down south stop by Morrison and set up some of the old top ropes. They are good for a pump and so steep that they are always in shape.(Hogback Mamma, Local Motions,)

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Well, there is that little place called "wall of winter warmth" in Boulder canyon (boulder falls area), that might be a good place to start. For something quick and easy the riviera can actually get a little hot baking in the sun during the winter, and there are some decently grueling sport climbs there. Between 10am and 2pm is gonna be your best bet for direct sun this time of year.

Rainbow Weinstock · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 85

Thanks for the input y'all- this is useful! Wunsch's Dihedral on Cynical Pinnacle was excellently warm today, when it was in the sun. The approach was also snow free, without a soul up there. Turkey is also a good winter crag, when you can get in there. Anybody been on the road recently?

Christopher Jones · · Denver, Colorado · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 910

I drove down there on the 24th and it was not bad with a 4x4 truck. I would not take a Subaru down there until spring.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

The best Boulder winter cragging will be found in Castle Rock at Castlewood Canyon.....duh!

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

second the security risk area, as well as the bitty buttress area (both in boulder canyon). both get good sun (although the sun at security doesn't come around until 10am or so). also, both have really good trad and sport routes in the 11 to 12 range. some of the best in the canyon for sure.

only drawback is that they get closed for raptor nesting (i think at the end of january or maybe end of february?).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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