first time in Ouray ice park

I'll be in the Ouray area for a day or two in the beginning of January (no, not in time for the festival).
I'm an experienced climber on rock and wanted to rent some gear and TR whatever I could.
Can anyone recommend a good shop to rent tools/boots?
Will a 50 meter rope suffice to top rope most areas?
Any advice on which areas to check out and how to find them?

Thanks for any help
-Andrew

not sure if Bill still rents these items at Ouray Mountain Sports
give him a call as you may have to rent locally where you live or on the way..

you may need a 60m for some routes in the School Room ~some details here~
have fun..!

As of last season, I know that no shops in town rent any gear that is sharp. You can get boots in town.

As you travel in, there is a shop in Ridgway on 550 (right side as you drive towards Ouray; forget the name) that will rent footfangs and boots.

Call around, but dont be suprised if you cant find anyone to rent out crampons. I have also never found a shop to rent picks.

Goodluck, your best bet is finding a friend to loan you gear before you get there.

Jon

Jon Cheifitz wrote:As you travel in, there is a shop in Ridgway on 550 (right side as you drive towards Ouray; forget the name)

heads-up be careful with that guy and get *everything* in writing ~ he's an alcoholic-zoner. Local police know him well ~fyi~ if you try to return rental-stuff he may not be there within hrs posted

You can call San Juan Mountain Guides to try adn get some gear from them. I do believe I they will rent gear. Ouray Mountian Sports does not usually rent tools or crampons.

mattb19 wrote:You can call San Juan Mountain Guides to try adn get some gear from them. I do believe I they will rent gear. Ouray Mountian Sports does not usually rent tools or crampons.

I think you can get boots, helmet and that stuff. Not sure if Bill is still renting tools and what not. worth checking out.

ok 2 votes to call Bill...

kirra wrote:not sure if Bill still rents these items at Ouray Mountain Sports give him a call as you may have to rent locally where you live or on the way..

Maaaatt wussup..!!

Be a little careful about Shumin Wu's rope length recommendations for South Park. While the routes on the shoulders of the buttress may be doable with a 50, the buttress routes stretch a 60--if the anchors are taken to the edge. Most people use a 70.

If this is your first time to Ouray, remember that a lot of the routes can only be accessed by lowering in. It's not a bad idea for you and your partner to go over the procedure for lowering in (frozen ropes anyone) then communicating over the edge. This is an arcane set of skills at which many climbers are rusty or unfamiliar. All you have to do is walk along the top to see the horror shows unfolding. It's amazing that more people don't get hurt or wet.

Bring an 30' piece of old climbing rope for top-rope anchors in addition to your regular collection of cordalettes, webbing and lockers, etc.

Don't rap off the trestle anchors into the Schoolroom because you will bomb climbers below with ice. It's easy to set up your TR then walk in. Yelling ice doesn't solve the problem because everyone in the gorge is yelling ice all the time so no one listens anymore.

Climb Safe,
Mal

Anybody know if Vince Anderson's guide book for the park is any better than Jack Roberts' Colorado Ice; Vol. 1 book? I've got the JR book, but was thinking about picking up VA's book if I could find it.

kirra wrote:ok 2 votes to call Bill... Maaaatt wussup..!!

How's it going? You been getting on any ice?
I am gonna head up your way as soon as the Designator comes in. I'll let you know, if it doesn't happen before the fest I will see you then.

If you wanna snake out to Ouray early let me know I have an apartment here for the winter.

mattb19 wrote:I have an apartment here for the winter.

shhhheeet... thought you wanted to keep that a secret

you got it #19

OK, as of last winter Bill Leo of Ouray Mountain Sports WAS renting all ice climbing gear. This is the first time he has EVER done that which is probably why so many people in this thread insist that he doesn't. You might want to call and confirm that he plans to do so again this year however as it's a bit of a hassle.

San Juan Mountain Guides has historically rented boots, but I dont't think tools or 'poons unless you hire them. Again, call to check as they may have changed their practices.

Regarding the new Ice Park guide, overall it's not a lot better or worse than the Roberts guide. Some of the photos in Vince's guide are taken from weird angles/locations which doesn't necessarily help locate/identify the climbs.

As always, Malcolm offers excellent advice which everyone, especially those new to the Park, would do well to heed.

A 60m rope is the most useful for climbing in the Park as well.