Chimneys in the front range?

Does anyone know of any fun chimneys in Boulder canyon, Eldo, or Clear Creek? I'm looking for 5.9 or below. Something I can get my body into. Sport, trad, or top rope. I know of one at The Dome and one at Elephant butress, I'll plan on those this weekend.... but I'd like more options.

Cussin' Crack (5.7) in Boulder Canyon I think is a chimney, but I'm not sure. It's on Castle Rock.

--Marc

Edit: Make sure you bring a vinyl suit if you're going to do the chimney on Elephant Buttress that I'm thinking off. I soloed that thing last year and was covered in bird shit afterwards. It was gross. I'm still a little traumatized. :)

--Marc

It's a bit of a hike to get to, but Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney is a short but classic 5.5 chimney.

West Chimney in Eldo is decent, but watch out for loose rocks and parties above you.

I agree with George, Takin care of business, nice hike to get away from the crowds, classic chimney. Makes you feel like Gaston Rebuffat!

1st pitch of cussin crack is chimney-ish, but there are lots of places for pro. It's easy though, maybe 5.5 with a 5.6 move to get to the big ledge.

Lumpy Ridge has lots of chimneys:

On the Twin Owls:
Central Chimney 5.8
West Chimney 5.6
Wolf's Tooth 5.9
Tiger's Tooth 5.10a

On the Bookmark:
Penis Chimney 5.9

On the Bookend:
Unknown Chasm 5.7
Bombay Chimney 5.8

On Sundance Buttress:
First pitch of Kor's Flake 5.6

Also some off-width cracks that are not quite chimneys:

On the Bookmark:
Inside Straight 5.9+

On the Bookend:
Third pitch of Hot Licks 5.8+
Corinthian Column 5.9

ssv, scout rock, rawhide. theres a 10+ move to get into it but once in, its great. all bolted and wide enough where you're completely inside, with parallel walls, not flared. good fun. just don't tell anybody else.

The Daily Camera entrances on Pearl and on Walnut. Excellent but short. Poor pro. Best done in the dark There may be an access issue - not sure the landowner supports climbing that route.

Second pitch of Grapevine at Sundance Buttress/Lumpy Ridge is a stellar chimney grovel
Ron mentioned the first pitch of Kor's flake, however, the third pitch also degrades/develops into a chimney
First pitch of Osiris at the Book/Lumpy has some fun flared chimneying
The Petit Grepon has some chimney pitches.

Oh, here's a novel approach. Try to search on "chimney" on Mountain Project.

And if you want a desert chimney experience, do P2 of West Point Crack in Garden of the Gods. Lots of tight spaces towards the top of that one.

Ben Faber wrote:Ron, I keep forgetting about Lumpy. Yes, Tiger's Tooth is really good. It has some OWish stuff at the lower part and then becomes a fun chimney. I imagine that Wolf's is good, too. When did they get their ratings increased and why?

These are my ratings for the climbs, Ben. Wolf's Tooth is a sandbag at its guidebook 5.8 rating, and Tiger's Tooth has been traditionally rated 9+ to 10a; I think 10a is appropriate.

Thank you guys!! BTW, I did search "chimneys" but it's so hard to know what's really fun.... or when I need to wear my anti-bird shit super hero outfit.

Thanks xoxox

I would really recommend a trip up to vedauwoo. You could climb Chimneys all day!

Lots of good old school rating chimneys- real chimneys where you dont see the light of day TM chimney, Hideaway chimney, Labyrinth, Serpentine to Roberts Rectification( RR is a pretty cool wide flared chimney), Man Powered Flight, Coffee Grinder, Descending Colon- on the Pelvis, Cave crack.....Most of these are birdshit free routes better than the stuff in BoCan. Some of these routes will challeng you to find gear like a real chimney should- like being 20ft up and trying to figure out why you were stupid enough to wonder why you didnt bring small gear or a headlamp to see how crappy that gear placement was

Some of the aforementioned climbs just have offwidth cruxes- these are pretty much full on chimney climbs.

Hey Ben I just sent the green route in the gym- when are you and I going out climbing maybe we could touch upon the finer points of adequately rating chimney climbs?