Climbers Unite- A Life Saved

I have an amazing story to share with you that involves both tragedy and triumph, concerning a fellow fallen climber. Being the host of ~Climberz Unite~ on MySpace(www.myspace/rokclimer) a networking arena for climbers, I was TRULY able to witness and be part of the motto, Climbers Unite.

This happened in Indian Creek on Saturday, May 17th at approx. 11:30am. Myself and some new vertical friends, whom I had just met and connected with that morning(via Mtn.Project and rockclimbing.com)-climbers from Canada, Colorado, New Mexico and Virginia- had just arrived to climb at Reservoir Wall. Some were already there, some hiking in and the rest just leaving the trailhead. It was a perfect day.

All of a sudden, coming out of nowhere, the most spine chilling feminine scream came rushing out of an unknown canyon...'No! No! No! Oh my God please!!! No!! Ahhh...' It froze us in our tracks, scared us and grabbed our attention all at once. It then stopped as quickly as it had started. Not sure of why or where, those of us still in the Valley and closer to the parking started to try to find a phone with service. As we were trying to guess on what was happening, the clear cries for help started to echo from across the valley. It was now crystal clear something terrible had happened. Immediately, myself and several other climbers sprang into action. Amidst the heart pounding adrenaline due to the cries of comrades in need of rescue, I was able to witness the most valiant episode that I have ever come across, much less been part of, in my 14years as a road tripping climber....

From the top of the Res wall, from half way up the trail and from across the valley floor- strangers- fellow climbers- were running, a 1/4 across the valley, in 90degree sun, myself included, to respond to the cry for help. One group went to phone for help and the rest of us were en-route to find those in need. The cries were coming from the Cat Wall and the six or so of us that were the first responders including my 13yr old son, were running up the approach trail. It brought an amazing vision of the strength, spirit and connection that climbers share into great perspective.

When I arrived to the scene, it was surreal. The injuries were severe and the situation dire. Luckily, one of the first to respond, Chris D.(Grand Junction), was trained in paramedics. The second, Adam(Steamboat), also had medical training. The 3rd and fourth, Marc(Grand Junction) and Dustin(Aspen) were helping as guided and myself(CO. Springs) I am 1st aid/Cpr/FF1, arrived and cooperatively took IC of the scene. With quick action, sharing of skills and duties as well as amazing communication, we were able to stabilize the victim and settle the scene within 30min of the accident. I would also like to recognize Ramey(NM), Roger(Aspen),Jacob(NM), Thad(CO), Chris(VA), James(Canada) and Kyler, my son, who all helped with everything else such as dog control, supply passing, scene control, patient care, calls for help and record keeping. It was truly the most awesome collective effort of strangers, all for one stranger in need, that one may ever witness.

Apparently, the fallen climber(name w/held out of respect and at this time I have not heard back of the final outcome of the victim), his wife and their two friends were climbing at the Cat Wall. Johnny Cat(5.12+) specifically, when the accident happened. The climber was going for the final moves, just below the anchor, when he fell. His last piece failed with the force and due to his sparse protection, allowed him to deck. He hit head first, no helmet, recoiled w/ the rope and crashed violently on his right shoulder. His vitals were a rollercoaster and the depth of his injuries unclear. However, he was showing some great awareness and strength in lieu of the facts. It was a mind shaking event to say the very least. Their group had first aid and had started the basic process. His other friend had ran for help and they did the best they could considering the circumstances. His wife, who showed the most strenghth and courage of any there, was by his side and was his angel in his time of despair. With her, his quick reacting partners and the chance that SO many climbers were in the area that day, it was a testament that this day, albeit the accident, was indeed his lucky day.

It was about 30min later that the park service arrived. They brought more advanced first aid, which greatly helped, and let the IC situation stay as is while they coordinated other resources including Flight for Life and SAR. It was another 30+ minutes after that Paramedics, the rescue equipment and SAR arrived. Once on scene, they took command.We all continued to work together, getting the victim fully stabalized and ready for transport. Then, in one co-operative effort, we took him succesfully down the hillside. Once down, the pros stabalized him and drained some internal fluids to get him ready for flight. They then flew him and his wife to Grand Junction. From start to finish, it was less than two hours. He was a lucky man.

We all then went back and rescued all of their gear, getting it to them in Grand Junction the next day. After finishing reports and paperwork, answering questions, cleaning the scene and an exchange of handshakes, hugs of gratitude and a job well done, just as quick as we became one, we all went our seperate ways. Some of us to climb, some to reflect, some to get home and others to meet their fallen friend. What a day- and it was only the first four hours of it.

So, I guess the point and moral here is this- Our sport- Rock Climbing- no matter the type(Trad,Sport,Boulderimg,Big Wall, etc..) is one like no other, that above all things, is inherintly dangerous. It is also a sport that connects individuals in a way that no other sport can- and that is a beauty that we should never forget, never take for granted and should never come complacent with. On any given day, you or I may be the one in need of help or rescue. So it would be nice to know, through story sharing such as this as well as the unspoken bond that climbing brings, that we may always know that our fellow climbers are there. If someone needs it, help. It could be you.

As always, Climb hard. Climb safe. Push it, just not beyond your limits. And wear your helmet! Truely, Climbers Unite.

• *** Since originally writing this to send to Climbing-I was updated by the victims wife. He is doing better, yay! After many days in ICU he was released and able to return to SLC. He is beginning therapy for his restructured and mended shoulder injuries and only has some short term memory loss from his head injury. He is improvong more daily. Keep him in your best wishes...****

amazing story, thanks for sharing all details. Best wishes to the climber for a full recovery

I was wondering if you knew what phone carrier was able to get the coverage to have been able to get that call through. I've always had trouble in the area ~thanks..!

Awesome story, Shane. Thank you and the others for critical help. Do you know why the gear was so sparce? The nature of the climb or unfortunate choices by the climber?

#1- phone service-

another "meant to survive" quality of the story. A climber from Canada- James- had a special antenna for his phone that "amped" his roaming range, and luckily had 1bar of service. His girlfriend also happened to be a park ranger @ Canyonlands. If it wasn't for that one bar, this story might have ended differently...??

#2- Gear and Climbing-

well, from talking to others and seeing the scene,my speculation is this.. He was a skilled and very confident climber in the .12range and at Indian Creek. He was either onsighting or redpointing Johnny Cat. He was pushing himself, thus his protection too, to the limit. After a couple leap frogs of a .5(+/-?) he went for the crux move feeling confident of the pro and situation. Just at the anchors he fell and the last piece unfortunately didn't hold, therefore allowing enough slack for groundfall.

It is my OPINION that the climber didn't make a "mistake" per se', but however pushed the limits of his gear and climbing, CHOOSING to take the risk that comes with making that choice. A choice each and everyone of us must make each and every time we climb, whether sport or trad(but especially trad). This story is a surreal reminder of the reality and possible consequences of our sport. A story that will remind and educate climbers of what lies on the path chosen. I know for me, it took my awareness and respect for the rock, gear and my limit pushing to another level. In a way that is unique to me, that I know instantly made me a better climber, mentally.

It effected everyone involved in its own way. Some chose to climb(I did) that day. Some choose to not. Some chose to chill and reflect. Some chose to leave and even some were found questioning if they should climb anymore or not...??? Thus, the lesson learned is truly in the eye of the beholder...

Hey folks
I just want to say congratulations on a superb
job. You done good!

Shane Neal wrote: #2- Gear and Climbing- well, from talking to others and seeing the scene,my speculation is this.. He was pushing himself, thus his protection too, to the limit. After a couple leap frogs of a .5(+/-?) he went for the crux move feeling confident of the pro and situation. Just at the anchors he fell and the last piece unfortunately didn't hold, therefore allowing enough slack for groundfall. It is my OPINION that the climber didn't make a "mistake" per se', but however pushed the limits of his gear and climbing.

Shane do you know if this was a matter of the gear failing or the placement of the gear failing?

Thanks for posting this. We were at the Bridger Jacks when we saw the helicopter arrive and knew this meant something terrible had happened. I've wondered daily how the guy is doing fearing the worst. I'm so happy to hear he's doing well! I hope he knows there are people he's never even met thinking about him and wishing he and his wife the best.

Shane Neal wrote:**** Since originally writing this to send to Climbing-I was updated by the victims wife. He is doing better, yay! After many days in ICU he was released and able to return to SLC. He is beginning therapy for his restructured and mended shoulder injuries and only has some short term memory loss from his head injury. He is improvong more daily. Keep him in your best wishes...****

Really good news!

I'm sure that it comforted his wife immensely to have you guys on the scene so quickly. Great effort.

It's always good to hear stories like this. Glad to hear that all looks to be going well.

That was an intense post. You all deserve alot of credit for selflessly responding to a dire emergency. My hat is off to you all. and the very best wishes for a full recovery.

in regard to cell phone service, it is possible on top of some of the small hills in the valley. For instance on top of the small (40ft) hills near the super bowl camping area you can get nearly full cell reception on cingular.

Cool story Shane, and glad to hear it all worked out. This story illustrates why it's always good (if possible) to double up pro at the crux or before a long runout - just to be safe.

Mark Nelson wrote: Shane do you know if this was a matter of the gear failing or the placement of the gear failing?

The placement. The piece itself did not fail. Trusting small pieces, as we all know and sometimes forget, in sandstone, always adds to the risk. Thanks for clarifying that for me...:)

Callie Rennison wrote:Thanks for posting this. We were at the Bridger Jacks when we saw the helicopter arrive and knew this meant something terrible had happened. I've wondered daily how the guy is doing fearing the worst. I'm so happy to hear he's doing well! I hope he knows there are people he's never even met thinking about him and wishing he and his wife the best.

Thats SO awesome. Choked me up!! :) Ill pass the word on to them..... Thanks and cheers!