Roche-a-Cri State Park, Wisconsin - Climable??

I have been looking at info about Roche-a-Cri State Park, WI. They have some nice looking bluffs there from the pics I've scene. My question is if there is climbing aloud at this park? If not, has it ever been climbed by anyone? Its just such a shame to have more climbing areas around us in Wisconsin that we cant use. I can't find any information that says if climbing is aloud or not. Anyone have a clue?

There are some beautiful walls there but climbing is not allowed. I could tell you a whole complicated story about a foiled attempt to get permission to climb but I really don't have time right now.

To answer your other question. I do know some climbers who have climbed there illegally after the park officially closed in the fall.

If you send me a pm I'll send you my phone # here in Janesville. There are a number of excellent sandstone crags throughout the state that most folks are not familiar with.

John:

There are some really nice climbs at Roche a Cri. Forget about climbing them though...place is pretty much entirely off limits.... But like most of the other exposed SS in central WI it can vary a whole lot between nice and suitable for rock climbing and total choss and you wouldn't want to even try it after a brief visual inspection

It is worth going there and walking around the base of the crags though because the natural vegetation (especially the ferns and vines) are worth seeing. Last time I was there I walked away remembering that the evil garlic mustard hadn't taken over the place. For a Wisconsinite climber it is heart wrenching I think though to see these rocks close up and remember how few places we get to climb within the state and we don't get to climb these....

If you like aerobic work outs running up the wooden stairway to the top of the mesa is a heart burster on a Wisco scale. The view from up there is pretty darn nice as well.

Does anyone have specific info as to why this site is closed off? To protect the rock carvings, or did something happen that turned the DNR's stomach? With the traction the WCA got with Ableman's Gorge (here's hoping that pays off), I think we should start formulating a plan for more expansion as we prove ourselves reliable stewards and make our presence known. It'd be great to know what the concern is here.

I'll note that on the park's website at least, there is no mention of climbing being banned. It receives the same mention that it does at Governor Dodge; no mention at all. Granted, the climbing at Dodge is out of the way enough that we don't draw the sort of attention we would at Roche-a-Cri, but it seems like there might be room for consideration.