Long Scraggy Peak? S. Platte

Anyone ever climb anything on Long Scraggy Peak in the South Platte? Some good looking lines on the south and east sides of the mountain.

I climbed there once upon a time around the early nineties. There are at least 2 decent lines on the south end. Seems like they were .9 or .10. I recall that the approach took quite awhile. This was probably why I never went back.

I've only done the 4th class route up there this time last year. Looking down from the summit I could see what appeared to be a few good lines. The approach is long and there wasn't really a trail but it's not difficult getting up there. You might also be interested in The Castle if you like Long Scraggy.

We should go back to the Castle sometime, Tracy. But bring gaiters for the granite gravel approach.

There is a trail going up the west side that I mt. biked up and then scrambled up to the summit, about 2 hours round trip. I started on Forest Road 550 and biked down FS Road 530 (Spring Creek) found an old trail towards the north west end. It looks like the best way to approach for climbing would be on the east side which would require crossing the river. After Long Scraggy I drove up to the Castle and climbed up the 5.3 gully. This was in 04, went back to the Castle last year and climbed a couple of the classic lines. The Castle is great, just hoping to find something on Long Scraggy. I guess I'll just have to hike up there and do some virtual first ascents.

Bill, how did you approach it?

I doubt you are in need of this information as it is about 11 years late but I recently crossed the river while fly fishing to camp at the base of Long Scraggy. The best way would be to park in one of the "side of the road" parking lots near the river, cross the river in waders or no pants as it does get waist high in some spots, than hike up through the woods on the left side if you are looking at the mountain from North Platte River Road. There is not a lot of obstacles but the hike is about a little over a mile and can be tiring when carrying all your gear.

Nothing first hand, but I remember the fixed pin guide for South Platte basically says “not worth the effort”.

Yeah the only way it would be worth it is if you planned to camp right at the base for a night or two, and even then the main peak face looked pretty chossy. Although the rounded dome on the left side looks like a beautifully insane climb.