Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI)

Got any first-hand experience with this operation that you are willing to share? My understanding is that they are highly reputable (or simply more commercial than others?) Any lead guides with whom you have been particularly impressed?

...and before I start getting sh_t from all the tough guys out there who would never dream of using a guiding service for anything... I've no mountaineering experience and want to build a solid (safe) foundation for adventure travel and some international summits anticipated in coming years. I think one of RMI's Rainier summit/seminars would be a good start. What is your opinion?

My uncle was a guide for RMI for ten years, granted that was when they had the whole mountain to themselves, and my brother and a buddy spent two years working for RMI. The first time I did it was with my uncle and some friends, and the second time was with my bro and some other friends, and with their connections we were able to stay at the RMI Guide houses, which allowed us to hang out with them. From my experience they all seemed like a fun stand up crew. I would give them a go for sure.

Climbed the Disappointment Cleaver with them in July 2006 and had a blast. Great crew of folks and the teamwork of the various RMI teams on the mountain was evident (constant communication, re-routing wands, organization at Muir and beyond, etc.). It was my first big mountain experience (read: w/crevasse/glacier travel)as well and likely could have done it w/o the service, but was happy to be able to enjoy w/little or no worry. Also, the ranch that the Whitaker family runs is an awesome place to stay, eat, drink pre and post climb...enjoy!

I just got off Rainier a few days ago and had some great experiences with RMI and IMG guides up there. We were an independent party but we got a nice outside view of how their guides work. IMG in particular impressed me. Very positive and knowledgable guides. I talked with several of their clients who had either summited or attempted with both organizations and none of them had any complaints.

Thanks, Josh. How was Rainier? I'm planning to do it this summer. Did you have a great time? -Tiffany

It was great other than the difficulties coming from a mixed team. I made a little post about it and the complications that we experienced. We weren't able to summit (our route fell down about half an hour after we bailed off it... guess we made the right decision) in time but it was great being up on such a great mountain. Its well worth the trip even without a summit.

If you don't want to go all the way to Rainier come to Boulder and learn your basics from Colorado Mountain School.

RMI is a great company and you will have the best they have to offer as you would with any larger guiding service.

If more people ventured out with guides, they would find it money well spent, time well spent and you'd learn more being guided for a single day then any "friend of a friend" situation.

I climbed with RMI a number of years ago. Had a great time with them. Very sharp crew.

If you are looking for glacier and rock and ice skills...American Alpine Institute a few years ago had a 12 day course out of Bellingham...we hit up Mount Erie, Baker, Liberty Bell and Shuksan...we could have passed on shuksan and gone for Glacier peak...this was in 1998...whatever you do have fun.

I was on their 5-seminar climb in mid June of this year. Their operation is impressive to say the least. To start the facilities at the Whittaker basecamp are brand new, or at least seem that way. All of the rental equipment is new each season. The bunkhouse is not fancy, but nicer than I was expecting. Plus they have a bar and grill on site with GOOD beer on tap. I guess Pete's not gonna drink crap.
Our guides were Pete, Melissa, Kate, Mike, and Andy. All of them were great. This is Andy's first year and he was settling in nicely. I think Kate might be on Denali right now. Mike had just gotten back from Denali and Melissa just summited Everest.
The setup on the mountain almost makes you feel bad. You stay in a hut, while others are kickin it in tents. Don't get me wrong, I was thankful for the easier sleep (bring earplugs) and the floor in the hut is starting to rot. Hot water all the time is a nice touch too.
Say what you will about guides and big guide services, but they are doing an exceptional job at maintaining a high level of professionalism and service.

Needless to say, Ive been wanting to climb with Peter all my life. RMI is great from what I have heard and seen friends experience. I'm heading to Seattle in Januray to check out the facilities; Im extremely excited.

Stefan Whittaker wrote:Needless to say, Ive been wanting to climb with Peter all my life. RMI is great from what I have heard and seen friends experience. I'm heading to Seattle in Januray to check out the facilities; Im extremely excited.

So are you related? Or just coincidence. January is rough if you are planning to climb Rainier, success rate drops significantly in winter conditions. Good luck and have fun. Both my brother and uncle where guides, and I have met several of them. All great guys, and gals. Have fun.

TB - have experience w/all these guide services - just sent you personal email.

I greatly appreciate all the helpful responses to this post, including those sent by PM. The original post was made nearly one year ago and I continue to receive thoughtful messages. I thought I should leave an update.

In August 2008 I attended a high altitude medicine conference with Marine and Mountain Medicine. The conference, itself, was excellent and I recommend them to anyone with an interest in wilderness and/or dive medicine. At the conclusion of the conference we had the option of climbing Rainier. Experienced folks went unguided. Newbs like myself joined-in with either RMI or IMG. I need to add here that Bob Quinn of MMM and his wife were instrumental in personally helping me get to Rainier. --Thank you so very much and I look forward to future conferences and climbs with you!

I was placed in the group heading-up with International Mountain Guides via the Disappointment Cleaver route. Our guides were George Dunn, Mike Haugen, Chris Meder, and Eric Gullickson. We had a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio with one night at Muir and one night on the Ingraham Glacier.

The entire experience was amazing. I can't say enough about our guides and the IMG organization as a whole. They were all very professional. The coaching we received on pressure breaths, rest steps, and self arrests was great. The guides were attentive, helpful, and mindful of the details: when to eat, when to drink, when to rest, etc...

Our summit day was the 6th of August. It was such a pleasure to be standing on top and I can't wait to do more. So as it turned out, I can't speak for RMI but I can absolutely recommend IMG and plan to climb with them in the future.

photo: Rainier summit. 14,410ft. 6 Aug 08.
Left to Right: my fellow conference-goer and patient rope mate; IMG guide Chris Meder; IMG guide Mike Haugen; a happy and hypoxic me

A little late for this post to be helpful, but I climbed the DC route with RMI in August, and I was very pleased with the experience. I've done about half of the CO 14ers and such, but don't know jack about glacier travel and reading the weather on Rainier so I went with a guide service. This is definitely a more expensive option, but a very worthwhile one.

As it turns out, the weather was cloudy, wet, cold and unsettled on our climb, but the guides knew the conditions so well that we hit a good window and everybody in our grouyp made it (including a 67 yr old from CO who was a very cool guy). Mike Walters, Melissa, and Steve were guides for our group, all of whom were excellent.

Two of my really good friends are guides for the company. They only have great things to say and they really enjoy their jobs. I climb with them more than anyone else.