Should I join the AAC

Just wondering what people think about the AAC. Should I or shouldn't I.

I have a membership with the NZAC but its as a limited member and I only get the journal since I don't live there anymore. So I've been thinking I should join the AAC. Inparticular for the library resource...

I also note that they have a worldwide insurance but I'm not sure if that is of much use since it caps at 5K and that isn't going to go too far. Does the insurance work in this country, say for example if I got into trouble in Clear Creek canyon or Zion, or Yosemite, etc.

Anyhow, please let me know what you think and whether its a good deal for the 80 odd bucks a year.

Thanks.

John

People join for different reasons. For me it's the library. The use of it over the years has actually helped my career. It's a great resource for research. Anyone one can visit but you need a membership to check out books, videos, and the likes. You never know who you might bump into there. This past Friday John Harlin and Dee Molenaar where loitering there.

They have revamped the insurance this year and I haven't read up on it. I know there's an actual phone number on the back of the membership card to call if you need help worldwide.

It opens up use of the Canadian huts at reduced rates. Lot's of other clubs also allow use of various resources with a AMC card. I've used mine in Romania ! For many the climbers ranch in the Tetons is what membership is all about. It's a wonderful thing the ranch.

The annual meetings are often great knock down parties to boot.

I am a member of the AAC. However, if there is one organization that every climber should be a part of, its the Access Fund. Just thought I'd mention them.

The AAC Library is amazing. They will mail out books that any decent research library would never allow out of Special Collections. The collection is the best in the US, and the staff is really nice and helpful.

And yeah, if you're in Golden, you should stop in. It's in a nice period building, and the library is in a room that has windows, armchairs and a fireplace. I've done research in at least 7 or 8 countries, and it's the first time I've seen that.

I'm not crazy about the changes to the insurance policy. It's probably an improvement for those who climb mostly in Asia, but clearly worse for those who climb in the Alps. But then I didn't vote in the last election, so I can't complain.

AF is also deserving--

John,

A big YES for joining the AAC. The library alone is worth the membership fee, and don't forget you receive American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering every August. Those together are $50 retail. Plus there is always something going on at the Mountain Center and you can even climb on the nice fake wall there. Seriously, they send out a lot of information on stuff going on at the Mountain Center.

The rescue insurance caps at $5K but it is better than nothing. The first call has to be made to Global Rescue. You can purchase extra insurance, up to $500K.

There are other perks, like a 10% discount at Bent Gate for AAC memberships and the American Mountaineering Museum is now open...The lists goes on and on.

Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote:I am a member of the AAC. However, if there is one organization that every climber should be a part of, its the Access Fund. Just thought I'd mention them.

Been a member of Access Fund for years...

Hi John,

Several years ago, I was talking to a long-time member of the AAC at the Teton Climber's ranch, over dinner.

As I recall from our discussion (anyone with real facts, please feel free to correct):

Prior to the late 80's (?), the AAC was very much an elitist organization. If you wanted to be a member of the AAC, you had to prove yourself (through your accomplishments) as a somewhat devoted alpinist. If you were lucky, you'd get a current AAC member that would sponsor you, after which you'd be eligible for membership. I'm sure this also made it a tightly knit community.

Around that time, membership was dwindling; the organization was very small.

The AAC decided to make a fundamental change to the AAC that would allow virtually any climber with a couple years of experience to join the AAC. I inferred that this was a very heated topic amongst members... as I'm sure you can imagine.

None the less, this was the future direction of the AAC -- as it is setup today.

As explained by this member, one of the motivations of growing membership was to give the AAC a more substantial voice. His example was that in Austria, a substantial percentage of the population are members of the national alpine club. As such, when their alpine club takes a stance on a national issue, it's voice is loudly heard -- it represents some huge percentage of the population.

In the US, the AAC will never directly represent a substantial percentage of the population; however, representing several thousand individuals carries more weight than representing several hundred. The AAC is effectively the speaking voice for climbers in the US. So, this is one reason that climbers should be members of the AAC.

A second point that he made is often overlooked. For individuals conducting any international climbing/expedition, the AAC will provide an endorsement to members. According to him, there is a night and day difference in many countries, between being endorsed by an alpine club and not being endorsed. And examples he used were as strong as being able to get through customs with your gear, versus without your gear... so yet another benefit.

Lastly, the AAC has numerous grants that effectively promote new exploration throughout the world, often using creative tactics. This is another benefit to the climbing community as a whole.

As a side note, you don't have to be an AAC member to use the library; however, you do have to be an AAC or CMC member to check out books.

I'm not sure I fully understand the new insurance, but it sounds like you have to call a particular rescue number for it to be effective. In my opinion, that's a bad selection of insurance. If I fall, injure myself and pass out... who's going to call anything other than 911?

Overall, I believe all climbers should join the AAC. For those 28 and under, the rates are reduced considerably.

Cheers,
Avery

You had to run down three references from active members. As I recall one also needed to supply a resume. Worse than that to use the library one had to venture to the upper eastside of Manhattan (after making a appointment with a guy named Frank). It was an old boy club for sure. I for one am super glad they have become more inclusive.

Ya, I joined the AAC a year ago and find the library worth the price. The insurance may have risen to 6K but I'm not sure...

John
I've been a member since 1984 and I've always thought it was
a great deal just to get the Accidents in NA Mountaineering and
the yearly Book they put out. I do know that CMC members also
get access to the AAC library, so if you're a member there
you might check it out. And they also give member discounts to
different climbing hangouts like the Teton climbers ranch and
Bison Willy's for ice climbing up in Cody. A real deal there too!

Most of these posts have addressed the AAC's tangible benefits. But for me, it's the intangibles that make the club highly worth joining and supporting.

As Sam says, every American climber should join the Access Fund. However, the Access Fund rarely (never?) gets involved in international issues important to climbers. As the nation's voice for climbers, the AAC has often played an effective role in preserving access internationally, most recently when draconian new rules proposed for the Cordillera Blanca were squelched by the AAC and other alpine clubs. The AAC also has built a huge reservoir of respect among the NPS and other government agencies, which has allowed it to lobby effectively on behalf of climbers. Recent example: helping to postpone or shelve a major increase in the climbing fee for Denali and Foraker.

The AAC also has dramatically stepped up its conservation efforts, primarily through the Alpine Conservation Partnership with the Mountain Institute, which aims to restore and protect fragile alpine environments worldwide. The partnership started work in the Khumbu region of Nepal and has expanded to Kilimanjaro and the Cordillera Blanca, with more projects on the way.

There's lots more in the works, including new climber campgrounds in the Gunks (very soon) and probably the New River Gorge and Yosemite.

All these things may not be tangible benefits of joining the AAC, and many climbers never hear about them. But they sure seem like they're worth supporting.

Dougald

John,

I've been a member of the AAC on and off for years and am currently not a member. Why? Because I see few reasons to belong. rejoined a few years ago when I was traveling over to the Alps to ski the Haute Route and other routes. I thought my membership wold cover me for any medical emergencies and give me a discount in the huts. WRONG! The hut stamp was never honored and I was informed that if I was involved in any medical emergency my AAC insurance would not cover me. When I went on a trip to India I was likewise informed by my agent that additional medical insurance was required since the AAC insurance did not qualify. It might cover me in the USA but then my regular insurance will also do that. It's also unnecessarily complicated. I've traveled in and out of lots of countries the past few years on climbing trips and the AAC affiliation doesn't seem to matter to anyone. The club's endorsement for an expedition seems meaningless. I think that this benefit is a thing of the past. If I want to check into Bison Willy's or the Teton Climber's Ranch I don't get preferal treatment as a member of the AAC. I'm treated the same as the family of four trying to get a bed just ahead of me. Seems like people who aren't club members receive the same discount as members. The library is a nice benefit but then anyone can go in there and use the books I want to read and check out for my next research project. The Journal and Accidents in NA are great publications but I wish the AAC would consider my membership important enough to send me these journals prior to sending them to the bookstores months before mine gets sent to my address.
The grants that go towards younger climbers are a good thing but as an older climber, they are of no direct benefit to me.

I'd like to support the AAC because I think there is potential for the club to do a lot of good for American climbers. But until they get their act together so all climbers benefit from their membership I'll just walk into Neptune's to purchase their literature and put the remaining $35 toward the French Alpine Club membership where it does some good.

Cheers,
Jack

jack roberts wrote:. . . rejoined a few years ago when I was traveling over to the Alps to ski the Haute Route and other routes. I thought my membership wold cover me for any medical emergencies and give me a discount in the huts. WRONG! The hut stamp was never honored and I was informed that if I was involved in any medical emergency my AAC insurance would not cover me.

Ok, that's a bit scary as the last time I was in Chamonix they told me that the AC rescue coverage actually applied there. Who told you that wasn't true? Did anyone ever put this to the test under the old coverage?

Moot point now, I suppose, since they've changed the insurance entirely. Honestly, though, if you are close enough to use the Library and not need or want to have yr books mailed, you can dod it w/o a membership. But you should pony up at least a token gift specifically to the Library-- it is really underfunded and those of us who do use/rely on old books, journals, maps, etc. are really the only constituency it has.

I haven't joined the CAF yet but may need to this year.

I agree with everything Dougald says and would add this. The intangibles are the most important benefits from both the Access Fund and the AAC. All he says about the AAC is correct, a s far as I know. As per the AF, virtually everything they do for us intangible. We never get to see the anti fixed anchor legislation (as a rider on a bill) that is stopped because they jumped on it, or know exaclty what kind of discussions were made with the BLM for the toilet we use every morning. Having served on the board for 6 years I know that the people of the AF work their butts off for us.

So, to sum it up, the AAC does a great job of looking out for you internationally, and the AF doesthe work we all need done domestically.

Avery Nelson wrote:... I'm not sure I fully understand the new insurance, but it sounds like you have to call a particular rescue number for it to be effective. In my opinion, that's a bad selection of insurance. If I fall, injure myself and pass out... who's going to call anything other than 911? ...

The policy has been amended somewhat allowing a reasonable amount of time after activating EMS for the AAC service provider to respond. The AAC is no longer offering insurance coverage, however they are offering a responder who will provide a service and also a $5k initial allowance for fees. Whether that entails Global's own admin fees for answering the phone as a billable service, that's a question.

There should never be any hesitation toward an injured climber that can't self/buddy rescue in calling for EMS help. Irrespective of who is offering what service.

In most every case in the U.S., the county sheriff and/or park ranger will have jurisdiction for backcountry climbing incidents which fall into a management program called ICS, then possibly NIMS, which are under FEMA & Homeland Security. (Climbing accidents would more than likely be considered a single incident & classify under ICS -- NIMS is more a multiple geographic incident response, like simultaneous terrorist attacks)

The county sheriff/park ranger will be in a position of incident commander and will determine the resources they need.

Also, John, I'm an AAC member mainly due to supporting the conservation & exploration effort for the American climber.

Kevin,

I went into the Chamonix guide headquarters in April 2007 and had a few questions regarding evacuation, injury insurance coverage etc and the response I got (in very good English) was that the AAC coverage was not adequate enough for most situations and that to be on the safe side I should buy into the CAF. Regarding the huts, it was a sporadic thing but not every hut keeper automatically gave me a discount because of the AAC stamp. Most did not and when I did receive a discount it had nothing to do with being a AAC member. Maybe these things have changed in the past year but when I was there my club membership was of no merit.

I guess I would just like to see more tangible benefits from the AAC.
Intangibles are fine and doing good things in the Khumbu in the name of conservation is great but how does that help me when I'm lying in a snowfield with a busted leg in Peru and my AAC insurance won't cover the cost of being carried out. Regarding the AAC campgrounds, maybe it would be nice if it were just AAC members instead of anyone what has some coin. Right now anyone can use these camping areas.

Don't get me wrong, I don't thing the AAC is a bad thing. I just don't think it does all that much for climbers that they can't already do for themselves without being affiliated with the club.

Jack

Jack is misinformed about a couple of things. (Jack, you should rejoin or check out the AAC website, so you can see what's changed since you were a member.) First, members do get discounts at all AAC facilities; at the Grand Teton Climber's Ranch, members pay just $8/night, vs. $16 for the general public; at the American Mountaineering Museum, members pay $3.25 vs. $6.50 for the public. As new facilities are added, AAC members will continue to get good discounts. The AAC also recently added reciprocal hut arrangements for huts in Canada and New Zealand; you have to pay something extra for the discount card, but it's the same amount extra that Canadians and Kiwis pay.

In terms of American Alpine Journal delivery, AAC members get early access to the AAJ on the website. Last year, it was about two months before the print copies were delivered. This year, stories will begin to appear online in March, roughly four or five months before the print copies are mailed. Members also will very soon have access to a big online collection of topos, maps and extra photos for climbs that were featured in the AAJ.

As for insurance vs. Global Rescue, there are some trade-offs, as in any big shift. But so far AAC members' experience with the new service has been excellent, versus the rotten track record of the old insurance. (Both the old and the new cover climbing in the Alps, by the way.) But keep in mind:

• The AAC never claimed to offer medical insurance. It only covered the costs of rescues.
• The $5,000 rescue benefit was and is nice, but it won't come close to covering the cost of a major rescue or medical evac in Europe, Asia, or elsewhere. For those nightmare scenarios, you need extra coverage like the full-service plans offered by Global Rescue. (AAC members get a discount.) That's why adventure travel companies doing trips in Africa, Asia, etc., require $100,000 or more in evac insurance.
• In the Alps, as Jack says, it often does make sense to add CAF or Swiss air rescue insurance, which is very cheap and effective.

In sum: The AAC is changing rapidly, and new and prospective members owe it to themselves to check out what's really happening now rather than base decisions on old info.

John, you should join. Especially given your demographic. And, to paraphrase someone, its not what the club can do for you, its what you'd bring to the club.

There has been changes. And, the more folks take the time to get involved, the better it will get.

I'm pretty psyched about the grant program for climbers. Got to spend some time with Dave Turner last spring in Bend. He just sent that rig in Patagucci, awesome awesome. Its those kinds of things that the club supports thats partly why its so great an organization to belong to. That, and to give some of the old timers a bad time...

Club put out a top ten last year...see below.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
AAC Northern Rockies Section Chair

Here are the TOP 10 reasons to add your voice to our greatly expanding organization:

Stand behind the organization inspiring and supporting climbers since 1902.

Dig into the American Alpine Journal - the definitive collection of the year's most ambitious climbs. This 500-page book is published annually (a $35 retail value). Find AAJ articles as far back as 1966 online.

Learn from Accidents in North American Mountaineering - a "must read" among climbers for its detailed analysis of the year's tragic mishaps. Published annually (a $10 retail value).

Stay at the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch - at the base of some of the country's best alpine rock climbs - for just $8 per night. Enjoy discounts at affiliate huts across the U.S., Canada, Europe, and New Zealand.

Explore the American Alpine Club Library - the largest collection of climbing books, maps, and DVDs in the western hemisphere (with free shipping to members and a searchable online catalog).

Receive Global Rescue Services for everything from bouldering off the beaten path to mountaineering at 8,000 meters.

Support climbing expeditions - the AAC offers more grants to climbers than any other U.S. organization.

Help protect the places we climb through efforts like the Alpine Conservation Partnership, the first global initiative to protect high and wild places.

Plug into the climbing community through the AAC website, E-News, online membership directory, and local, regional, and national events.

Contribute to the worldwide voice for American climbers on policy and advocacy.

I was a member in the early eighties then got out of it. Rejoined about five years ago. I wish the rates were lower, but overall a good organization.

Thanks for all the info. Looks like I should get my act together and support them.