Staying Tuned While On Crutches

I'm looking for suggestions on what I can do to not get totally out of shape while being sidelined for the next 8 weeks. I managed to shatter my heel bone a week ago and have to stay off of it for awhile. I was up on a route in the West Bank area that has sort of been my nemesis. A year ago I ripped up my leg stepping over a log just below the route and had to hobble down, with the help of good friends and get 20 stitches. In almost the same spot I break my calcaneous. At least I was familiar with self extrication this time.

Anyway, I welcome any suggestions for working out without using or weight bearing on the left foot. I'm already practicing 12 Oz. curls......

beware of your shoulders going whakky on you.

I was on crutches for around 6-8 weeks, and i actually built up some sort of muscle imbalance/impingement that hurt worse than the freshly installed hardware!

push-ups helped.

3 years ago I toasted an ankle. The doc at te ER said everything was 'grossly intact.' I asked for a translation of this into laymans terms. He said I ripped everything in it, but that nothing was completely torn apart.

That was the sport climbing summer. Some very dear friends helped me prop the crutches and carried me over their sholders to cliffs while I hopped on 1 foot. At first I followed, then progresssed to leading, but only overhangs so I couldn't get slammed back into the wall.

The foot was in a "boot" and I learned to climb with it that way. Friends continued to help me get to crags, or agreed to go to crags with easy access. It took a few routes to get used to, but I did it. With time, perhaps 3 months I was able to get back into a climbing shoe. I taped the ankle to imobilize it, put on a stable hih-top, then put the splint over the high-top. I could only front point, and could not turn my foot in or out to edge or jam.

By October, 5 months later, the foot was strong enough to climb without a splint again, simply taped. And in celebration, I went up to do Vertigo with Joseffa she lead the thin edging pitch (which I did lay-back style, front pointing) & I lead the roof. If I am honest, I think it made me stronger than normal- I'd been working hard with my hands for so long to make up for the missing foot on overhangs... Point being, look at the bright side- it might make you stronger.

Anyway, the point here is that you can probably still climb, but there will be limitations, and you're going to need a lot of help frome your pals. Get them to lead or hang TR's if you can! And heal quickly.

On that note, I broke my wrist and dislocated my ankle (not climbing) Jan 15 and 18, respectively. The cast came off yesterday. The hand is weak, but I find I am climbing again already. Just a little cautiously- with pals to keep an eye on me again. Hang in there and stay as strong as you can- then heal well and get back at it when you can. Use the time now to do your taxes, spend extra time with your lover, whatever- catch up on life. It will fly by.

Tzilla, I say get all hooked on pain killers(I like Ultram)and take it easy for a while. THEN get the most padded splint/boot you can get your hands on and do low traverses at the local gym. I actually came out of a BASE jumping shattered ankle(4 pins, 7 staples)almost as strong as ever by training endurance with one foot and traversing plastic. Use your leftover meds to bribe spotters. It's not a death sentence. By the by, which route was your nemesis?

SPRAY ALERT!!!!

Just wait till couch madness combined with oxycontin sets in.

BTW, you know I'll help you get in some of the shorter approaches when the time comes.

Porn.
Alternate hands.

Honestly, that sucks.
If I were you I'd get into watching basketball or something for a while... Thats a long time to just concentrate on climbing when you can't actually do it. I'd try and not concentrate on the one-true-sport for a little while before I started training.

Climb three-appendaged if you want.

However, spend some time working out in a regular gym as it will do wonders for keeping you well conditioned in all muscle groups (if you do a well rounded routine, that is) during your time off. Try to find a gym with an upper body ergometer, if possible--it's like a bike for your arms. You get a little cardio workout, some great stamina training for both chest and back (if you cycle both forward and backward), and I feel it keeps the rotator cuff well conditioned too.

Furthermore, make it a point to strength train your non-injured leg--everything! Hams, quads, calves, glutes. Research has shown that when a non-injured limb is exercised, it has a transfer effect on the injured limb; i.e. through neurological mechanisms not fully understood, it appears to prevent the injured side from detraining quite as profoundly. This should make recovery a bit quicker and easier down the road.

I suppose you can reward yourself with the vodka and oxycontin afterwards.

Tzilla: I feel your pain. I am sitting here on the couch again today because I fractured my smaller leg bone on 2/2/08. I had just cleaned a new boulder in the local woods and it was a little too slippery at the top. I peeled off the top. I managed to hit the crash mat but not without a loud pop. I knew immediately I was in trouble. We were about a mile away from the car. I had to be carried out because I kept passing out. Thanks to my friends for carrrying me (Luke, Joey, Jake, Paige). So I am in a cast a few more weeks and then the walking boot. I have been managing to stay in shape by using my fingerboard and lifting weights with my upper body by either lying on the floor or leaning against something. I agree with Eyes of Green that its also important to work your good leg, it does help the healing. I did have a problem with my muscles being tweaked from using crutches already but I evened myself out with pushups. I do think Oxycontin is great for pain, but be careful of the usually included tylenol. Supposedly too much tylenol or other anti-inflammatories actually slows some of the healing. But hey don't get my wrong I definetly have to take something for the pain. Sorry Tzilla, I know it sucks man. I have been sitting here drooling over being able to do anything again, espically going climbing.

Hey, I know what it's like to be laid up...shattered my ankle 3 years ago. Best advice I can give you from experience is go to PT...do the exercises that they tell you to do. And on a mental note: Read or reread Arno Ilgner's "The Rock Warrior's Way". You may gain some insight into what it is about this area that is holding you back. Arno did wonders for me...I even took a clinic with him a year later. I highly recommend balancing the physical training with the mental training. Good Luck and keep Icing it!!!

Best of healing & good vibes to you, Tod.

I'm a scotch man myself.

Looks like it's home repair projects and honey-do bulls- I mean enjoying the company of your s.o.

Having been through such multiple times (most recently for shoulder and foot surgeries with overlapping recovery periods) my advice is to go to a normal gym and work on: 1) cardio and 2) overall body fitness/strength with the appendages you can use. If your foot is jacked, then you can use a stationary arm bicycle or a rowing machine with one leg for cardio. For general fitness, it is very helpful to do strength workouts using free weights and machines. These don't have to be limited to your upper body, but can also employ your core, good leg, and maybe even movements of your injured leg that don't effect your bad joint.

When my shoulder was recovering I could still do hand exercises with grippers, finger curls, and reverse extensions for muscle balance. When my foot was in a cast I could still climb in the gym with one leg and occasionally a knee.

There are a multitude of references showing different exercises. Choose what ever fits for your situation. If in doubt consult a PT or personal trainer.

The key to exercises during your recovery is that it doesn't have to be hard or intense - just consistent. Consider it as a maintenance program or building a base for the future.

Hope this helps - TLQ

Tzilla Rapdrilla wrote:I'm looking for suggestions on what I can do to not get totally out of shape while being sidelined for the next 8 weeks....

If you've got crutches, I STRONGLY suggest that you get some of the Canadian style that has a cuff around the forearm. You support yourself on your arms with no underarm discomfort. You'll actually be able to carry your beer from the fridge to the chair. These things will change your life while on crutches! I speak from experience with both types. Find a place that rents them.

I second the suggestion to get yourself to a real gym for cardio and weights.

Forget the 12 ounce curls and start drinking the 14.2 ounce Guinness cans. This will quickly beef up your biceps - Brilliant!

I can relate to your predicament. A long time ago I underwent knee surgery where they drilled micro holes into my femur to create an "artificial cartilage pad" for my very arthritic joint. I had to crutch about for 8 weeks with no weight bearing.
My exercises included walking on crutches with no legs (its fun to see how far you can go and if you get really good, try changing directions), drinking, weight training all of the upper body, drinking, sex (be careful not to hurt yourself)and drinking.

The surgery was unsuccessful, my knee still blows, but I was in great drinking shape!

Hearing all these stories makes me feel a whole lot better. For those of you in similar straits, I certainly wish you all the best in a speedy recovery. Hopefully I can get in the gym after awhile and have friends drag me up some top ropes. In between that I'll definitely follow everyone's advice about various liquid refreshments and preferred pain killers. I won't be disappointed by crappy weekend for awhile............

Hearing all these stories makes me feel a whole lot better. For those of you in similar straits, I certainly wish you all the best in a speedy recovery. Hopefully I can get in the gym after awhile and have friends drag me up some top ropes. In between that I'll definitely follow everyone's advice about various liquid refreshments and preferred pain killers. I won't be disappointed by crappy weekend for awhile............

Kent Pease wrote:. For general fitness, it is very helpful to do strength workouts using free weights and machines. - TLQ

I read a similar article as the one I've posted a link to, and even though I don't take it as fact it still made me look twice at the weight "machines". In fact, I no longer touch them. Just free weights. Anyone else heard that weight-machines cause excessive stress on the joints? I've been looking for a study, something better than a men's/women's fitness mag, no luck yet.

http://www.bestlifeonline.com/cms/publish/best-body/10_Machines_You_Must_Avoid.shtml

I just got a call from Tod today. He's in BCH with a blood clot in his lung. He's on blood thinners for now and they're keeping an eye on him.

Tod, best wishes for a speedy recovery being sent your way.

I've got some great climbing porn you're welcome to borrow. My friends were kind enough to supply me with several DVD's while I recovered from knee surgery.

Hope to see you back on the rock soon so you can "Bolt the world."

I guess I will add in to this discussion on injuries. About 3 weeks ago, I sprained my ankle on a stupid cliff in Vail. No biggie, I thought so I let it rest and the swelling and purple color go away for a few weeks. Ankle felt good so tried some lunch time soccer and reinjured it. I did some research because it is a high ankle sprain or called syndesmotic sprain. Harder and longer time to heal than regular ankle sprain so time for some physical therapy I think otherwise I might repeat this process.

I can still climb but twisting outward is not good. I need to find a good ankle restraint device. Swimming has become a great exercise to ward off my muffin top. Homebrewing also serves to take up time and produce a nice product. Just finished a Super Ginger and next up is a Bourbon Barrel Ale (Just add Maker's Mark). After this will be a Chai Porter, yum!

Wishing all injured a speedy recovery!

coop

Man that sucks.

The best way to stay in shape is to get on with lot's of one eye'd pirate Asian midget peg legged hookers and tons of blow. ARRRRRGH!