the la sportiva Batura vs, the Nepal evo gtx

Looking to purchase a new ice boot. Has anyone purchased the new Batura? and do they know from experience if this boot is warmer than the nepal evo. I've tried both on and both are really comfortable. noticed that the batura had more flex than the nepal evo. that doesn't bother me since I would mate it with rambo 4 crampons.

I was looking at the Batura during this last winter...and kinda came to the conclusion that I didn't want to trust all my waterproofing to one zipper...seems to me that if that zipper breaks, sticks, etc. your boot is now practically junk. Haven't seen them in person, so can't really say for sure...

my 2 cents

Vic,

I've been using the Batura since November in all sorts of nasty weather including one approach hike where I went through the ice on a stream crossing and got wet up to my knees.......all except the feet in my Baturas.
I think they are really warm, comfortable and I've been wearing them almomst to the exclusion of all my other boots including the Nepal EVO. they are warmer, lighter and more comfortable for my feet than any other mtn boot Sportiva makes. I've had no trouble with the zipper and of the people I know who also have the boot, none of them have had problems...
I'm pretty sure you can trust these boots in a pinch.

Jack

wow...spicy spike supporters...!!

Jack, how would you say this boot ranks with others on shank flex comfort for x-tremely long approaches i.e. Cody ?

thanx in advance ~k

When I was trying to decide b/t buying the nepal evos or batura's I found the review on Zappos to be the useful. Now there are 2 reviews: zappos.com/n/p/p/7341098/c/…

Like the 1st reviewer, as well as what was on alaskamountaineering.com/Pr…, I went down half a size in the batura's from the nepal evo's.

They are plenty stiff when mated to a Rambo 4.

They're warm, but I wouldn't say they're insanely warm. My ice boot before the Batura was the Kayland Super Ice and I'd say they're about the same warmth-wise. I haven't worn the Nepal Evo so I can't compare to that.

If they fit you well, they're good for long approaches. My partner and I enchained Moonrise and Mean Green in Cody and my feet were fine comfort-wise all the way up and down.

Since I put Batura's on my feet I have not put on anything else.
They are super warm. Very Very comfy and have stood up to a full season of ice and mixed with out a nik. I have not had any problem with the zipper at all. It is a pretty damn burley unit. I would say the only way you could damage it is if you are a impatient crazy ass and try to force it through a snag or somthing to that effect. Becuase the gaiter fits tightly around the inner boot it does come together on the zip pretty tight. So it is wise to tuck your laces back and pay attention when zipping. Other wise I do not see it breaking unless it is just plain impatience. Sizing on this boot I went down a half size from my nepals but that may not be for everyone. I have a low volume narrow foot.

The flex and weight combined make this an ideal boot to use over the nepal Evo for obvious reasons. Not to say the Nepal is not still rock solid I think this is a great alternative and a warmer one.

I am pretty sure that Kevin has already purchased the new Batura's and is super siked. I saw him in vail a couple months ago sporting a bright and yellow new pair. HE seemed siked and warm.
Cheers

Reviving this thread because I, despite my above comment, am highly considering this boot (BAtura). I am also interested in the Nepal Evo GTX, mostly besause it's cheaper and seems more durable...but the Batura is more of what I want weight and warmth-wise. Planning on using it in the Sierras this winter on grade IV and V rock, also sirra alpine ice...Lee Vining Water Ice...then Alaska's Ruth Gorge this summer and Patagonia (Fitzroy region) next year. Experiances anyone?

Vic Lawson wrote:Reviving this thread because I, despite my above comment, am highly considering this boot (BAtura). I am also interested in the Nepal Evo GTX, mostly besause it's cheaper and seems more durable...but the Batura is more of what I want weight and warmth-wise. Planning on using it in the Sierras this winter on grade IV and V rock, also sirra alpine ice...Lee Vining Water Ice...then Alaska's Ruth Gorge this summer and Patagonia (Fitzroy region) next year. Experiances anyone?

I'm in the same boat as Vic. Trying to decide between these and that new Trango Prime they just released.

New Prime is a updated Trango Ice Evo with a goretex liner, sorely needed, and a simpler lace system. Hopefully it will be warmer and drier than the Ice Evo was. Between the Nepal Evo and the Batura it is almost a toss up for warmth imo having used both last winter in the Canadian Icefields. Batura has an edge just because it doesn't hold any snow with the built in gaiter. Great gaiter which helps keep the boot stay dry from the outside. Super warm? A dbl boot it isn't. I found the Batura difficult to dry out past a couple of days use. (Same issue with the Nepal Evo) Dampnest comes from internal moisture. A VBL or a good anti perspirent would help extend the use of either boot in really cold conditions.

More ankle support in the Nepal Evo than either the Trango Prime or the Batura. I get the best fit from the Nepal Evo 1st and then the Trango Prime which is almost as good. Batura has a hard time locking my narrow heels down without really cranking on the upper laces. I should have gone down a 1/2 size over my Nepal Evos I suspect to solve that issue.

No issues with durability though on the Batura or its gaiter. Solid, dry boot if you like an easy fexing ankle. Sole is rigid even in my 45s.

You'll notice the weight reduction of the Batura and Trango Prime over the Nepal Evo. All three have the same size sole, but the Trango has the lowest exterior volume followed by the Nepal which is slightly bigger and then the Batura (bigger yet) which should give you an idea of how they rank in warmth as well. Same crampons fit all three boots with little/no sizing change on the 'pons.

Dane Burns wrote: You'll notice the weight reduction of the Batura and Trango Prime over the Nepal Evo. All three have the same size sole, but the Trango has the lowest exterior volume followed by the Nepal which is slightly bigger and then the Batura (bigger yet) which should give you an idea of how they rank in warmth as well.

Dane, how much of a difference in warmth have you noticed between the Prime and the Batura? Or maybe a better way to put it is have you been able to take the Primes down to pretty cold temps without getting cold feet? I already own a pair of Spantiks that I use in very cold temps so I figure if the Prime can go down to about zero degrees F than that is probably the boot that best fits the quivver.

Hi Mike,
Haven't had the Prime outside yet. I'll be in Canada in the next few weeks and ring them out. But with close inspection of how they were built compared to my ICE Evo I would not expect much more than what was offered there. The Ice is not the warmest boot in the Sportiva lwt line. The Primes Gortex liner will add some warmth and maybe the change in lining material a little as well. But I just can't see how they will be warmer than the Batura. Same sole size but the Batura has a much bigger volume on the outside.

You already have the Spantik...Prime would make a good combo I think. Hard not to want to climb in such a low profile and lwt boot if you can keep your feet warm enough. Down to zero F would be really pushing it for me in the Prime I suspect. I used my Nepal Eves though down to zero F, no wind, and out of the snow, no problem with 2 pairs of light weight socks and lots of standing around on belays. Batura's down to -30 C in knee deep snow, again no wind and moving the entire time was just on the edge of beginning to be uncomfortable. Glad I was able to finish in the sun. I was wishing for my Spantiks on that trip.

Figure in sox combos, typical dehydration, and belay time I would be hard pressed to take the Prime on anything in the shade at 0F. Both places the Nepal Evo or Batura would be fine for me.

OK...I ordered two sizes from Zappos...

I went w/ the same size as my LS Trangos and then a half size smaller...I'll report back as to the fit and my intitial impressions on, well, everything!

Vic Lawson wrote:OK...I ordered two sizes from Zappos... I went w/ the same size as my LS Trangos and then a half size smaller...I'll report back as to the fit and my intitial impressions on, well, everything!

OK...here's the scoop...

First, as a referance, all my La sportiva sizes:

Exum Ridge= 44.5
Katana (climbing shoe)=41 for sport...42 for long routes
Trango S EVO GTX= 44.5

I ended up buying the 44 and the 44.5 Baturas from Zappos.

I tried the 44s on first and right away I knew I didn't have to even try the 44.5s on (I did anyway though!) I'm keeping the 44s...

My toes feel pretty close to the end of the boot, but I can't make them touch, even when kicking the wall or the floor w/ my toe. Good sign.

I have substantial wiggling room for my toes, but the boot feels snug around the rest of my foot. I cannot move my feet from side to side inside the boot (no sloppy sliding). They feel very comfortable out of the box w/ no sliping of the heel when I walk. I feel pretty confident that I could boulder hop and scree slide and load hump and scamble and do sweet dance moves in these.

When I stand on my toes, on the edge of a step I can feel my heels WANT to come up...but they don't...really. My larger foot feels totally locked down while my smaller foot I can feel move SLIGHTLY up in the heel. I don't percieve this to be a problem while approaching at all as I really have to TRY to get it to move. If I got a half size down I think my smaller foot would be perfect and my larger foot might be cramped a tiny bit. Which is better? Who knows.

I put crampons on them and then got back up on the step. This time I deffinately felt a Little heel lift. My larger foot lifts about as much w/ crampons on as my smaller foot did w/o. My smaller foot w/ crampons on lifts a Bit more than before.

All of this makes me think that if I wanted to (perhaps if I was a mixed/ice climber only) I could go w/ a half size down (from the 44s) and really get a technical fit w/ a 43.5. I'm just guessing here, but I imagine they would fit just fine...but these fit just fine too! Especially for all around, add an extra sock type alpinism. I just hope they don't pack out....

The heel lift I'm describing is really very minimal. I just have to make sure to crank down the laces really well if I'm to do a buncha frontpointing. (PS: I tried all the abouve tests w/ a light weight liner sock and a mid weight smartwool hiker sock on each foot.)

As far as durability goes, these look fantastic! MAybe not as good as the Nepal series, but as good as you can get from this style of integrated boot/gaiter. The zipper really looks as beefy as a zipper can look on a mountain boot. I really think that La Sportiva did all that they could to ensure that yer zipper won't break...and I figure if it does, I'll send it back for warranty replacement no prob...once I make it out of the mountains that is.

I'm going to take seam grip and "finish" some seam ends inside the gaiter and probably coat the stitching on the outside of the gaiter as well. This is just good practice, lengthens the life of your boot, and distinguishes it from all other boots in the hut!

My advice is to go a euro half-size DOWN from what you are used to. These deffinately feel roomy compared to the Trangos (remember, I've a 44.5 in the Trango and like the 44s (and feel as though the 43.5s would fit too) in the Batura.

So, now that I am sending the larger one back, I might pick up a half size smaller just to compare heel lifts......gawdamit.

Vic, good info in that post. Be sure to post up your impressions to let us know how those 43.5s feel compared to the 44s once you get them.

Grrrr...so much money tied up if I get the 43.5s....plus I got the two pairs I allready have on sale...and the sale is now over...so I'd have to buy the 43.5s full price...AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Zappo's is cool, just exchange the bigger pair. The credit card charges are refunded quickly.

Most have found that 1/2 down works well.

I've been wearing my 44 Baturas at work for the last few hours...(I work at a grocery store) and they feel pretty good.

At lunch I went home and climbed around on my climbing wall w/ and w/o crampons on...I was specifically trying to test the heel lift, and ya know what? When actually on holds, they didn't lift as much as when I was doing all sortsa things on flat ground and steps to make my heel lift...I think it's cause when climbing, your weight is more distributed between both feet and both arms too.

Hmmmmmm.....

I also kicked the shit out of my driveway curb. My larger foot just slightly touches the toe of the boot w/ a good solid kick and my smaller foot does not. I reckon if I were to go a size down my big foot would be pissed and hit the front hard, but my small foot would be happy...as it is now it's sort of the opposite. I can't know for sure unless I exchange, but I'm going ice climbing tomarrow (!!!) and besides, all this hassle w/ the mail and return slips and checking the bank account etc, etc sucks.

SO, I am planning, for better or worse to go w/ the 44s. If they indeed turn out to blister and lose performance because of heel lift I'll just e-bay them (which is a hassle all its own, I know...)

But it's really pretty minimal. I went to Andy Kirkpatrick's blog and searched for "heel lift" and read his take(s) on boot fit. He made me feel a bit more comfortable saying he often goes w/ the bigger size if between sizes.

andy-kirkpatrick.com/site/m…

andy-kirkpatrick.com/site/m…

If someone is willing to bankroll my sizing experimants and get me a 43.5 I promise to compare and report though!

Vic

I've been climbing in the Baturas almost a year now and they rock. wouldn't change them for anything. they are most definitely warmer than the nepal top evo's. I think I started this post a year ago before I pulled the trigger and threw down. the money is worth it.

kevin fox wrote:I've been climbing in the Baturas almost a year now and they rock. wouldn't change them for anything. they are most definitely warmer than the nepal top evo's. I think I started this post a year ago before I pulled the trigger and threw down. the money is worth it.

Yea, OP!