La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX vs Trango Extreme Evo Light

I am at a crossroads between these 2 boots.

Opinions?

What else besides weight difference?

My main uses are vertical ice and mountaineering in CO and CA.

Thanks,
Coop

I recently switched from a pair of Trango S Extreme to one of Nepal Evo GTX. I was considering the Evo Lights, but decided otherwise for two reasons:

(1) The Nepals fit my feet better. Specifically, I had less heel lift--something that I especially noticed with my old Trangos on steep ice.

(2) My Trangos did not prove very durable. In less than three years they were destroyed. I wish I could say that's because I climb a lot, but, alas, that's not true. The main weakness was the thin black leather at the ankle, which cracked and peeled, considerably reducing waterproofness. Newer Trangos may not have this problem.

The Trangos were very comfortable. The Nepals are a bit too new for me to judge in that respect, but they are warmer and they seem better built. Both are quite flexible at the ankle.

Yeah, I've got the Nepal Top i bought off a friend a few years ago. He quit ice climbing, was using them for riding his snow machine but was kind enough to part with them (for a price).

They're none the worse for wear. With the Wx we've been having lately I've taken to wearing them for work as well.

They fit my foot much better than the Scarpa's I used to wear. I can't believe I tolerated them for as long as I did, but I just didn't know any better I guess. If both models fit you equally as well, the slightly heavier boot will probably last you a bit longer, probably more than the difference in price would indicate, provided you care for the leather properly. Some of that weight is in the thicker mid-sole, which should provide more insulation from the cold ground. It won't kill ya, it'll only make you stronger.

You've got two different boots here.

The Nepal Evos are much warmer, stiffer and are abit heavier than the Trangos. They have more insulation and this also helps give them more comfort than some other boots. This is a perfect boot for climbing ice in Canada in the winter and for winter mountaineering. It's a bit of an overkill boot for warmer climbing in like the Sierra or Rockies but would work.

The Trango Extreme Evo-Light is just as the name implies, a lighter boot (1lb, 12 oz, the Nepal is 2lbs, 6oz) with less insulation, a lower top and it also has more flex dues to its slightly thinner mid-sole. This is a perfect boot for climbing in the alps, Colorado ice climbing and Canada in the summer. It is light, warm and performs well as a alpine boot on rock or ice.

I personally prefer the Nepal's fit. The toe box is bigger and the heel cup grabs my heel like a pitbull. The higher ankle cuff also gives me a little more comfort and warmth. I have both models and prefers the Nepal's fit and comfort.

Fit is the most important consideration. Both are ggreat boots so whichever one fits you the best is the one you ought to get.
Sportiva has a new model out called the Batura which is a lightweight, warmer model which is lighter than the Nepal Evo and warmer but it is more expensive than the Nepal and has a zippered top. Check their website. This model is probably ovverkill for what you need.

Best of luck deciding.

JACK