To Rappel or Not to Rappel?

So I'm sure this has been discussed before... if anyone knows where shoot me the link. Otherwise:
I am curious as to why some shun those who lower off anchors and why others scorn those who rappel.

I see both ways of getting down as completely up to the climber. If the anchor is getting worn from lower offs, then add some quicklinks to it and let that take the wear. That's what I have done in the past.

I would choose the safer descent

I think it is "best practice" to lower/top-rope from your own gear and rap from fixed anchors. Some people site safety for the last person up, especially if they can't top out. Well, maybe it's worth another lap for the leader or a walk around, or save a strong climber for last? While it is true that many anchors have chains with replaceable links, by the time the links are worn, nobody is up there the next day with a wrench and replacement hardware. [Are you? I'm not very often.] It is worse for plain chains since removing a badly worn link (assuming you carried up bolt-cutters) may leave the remaining links turned toward the rock, causing even more wear on the rock and maybe adding more friction than you'd like when pulling ropes. (Lord knows, some chains are short enough already, but that's another issue.) I see it as unnecessary wear on fixed equipment that SIMPLY DOES NOT NEED TO HAPPEN. It takes only a couple minutes to clip in, pull up rope, clip in your rap gear, check it, unclip your sling and rap down under your own control. It's cleaner and ultimately more rewarding. It may even be quicker: your belayer can scope out the next climb while you're taking responsibility for yourself.

Maybe the main reason it bothers me is that people tend to do what they learn and practice at the local crag (where maybe the gear does get looked at lot; and maybe even replaced relatively often). Then they go somewhere where the rock environment and gear is stressed even more, like the desert. Rope picks up a lot of grit and loaded ropes quickly saw through the iron anchors, ten times faster through the rock and maybe 100 times quicker through the delicate desert varnish that protects our climbs. The rock looses and ultimately, we all loose. Again, it is simply not necessary.

I'd call it respect for the environment, the gear and ultimately, your fellow climbers. Maybe it's just thoughtful behavior, dare I call it good manners? It shows you care about what you're doing. THAT'S somebody I'd want to climb with rather than shun.

I'm from the really old school - I would walk a mile to avoid a rappel. Back in the day, we always lived by the motto "trust yourself, not your equipment" I suppose it's safer now with better equipment. One of the original arguments used for "free climbing" as opposed to aid was that it was safer trusting yourself than your equipment. I don't know what the statistics are nowadays, but back then, it was "common knowledge" that a large percentage of rock climbing fatalities came from rappeling.

I rappel when I can, but often times the walk-off is more practical. I rarely lower off. I do like the quick-link idea though. When I was back east doing single pitch stuff all the time a good day was:
(at least)
1 Rappel
1 Lead
1 Toprope

Also, I find rappelling at places like the Gunks, Whitehorse and a few places in CO to be faster, and safety is often linked with how quickly you can get down from somewhere.

I have used walk-offs at Eleven Mile, Cathedral, and a lot in CT. I can't believe everyone used to walk-off at the Gunks. That is a hike depending on what route you are doing!!! Forget 40 point days!

-chris

I think this question goes more toward the 1/2 rope-length pitch sport line, correct?

If so, the anchor is usually there on the rock face so as to avoid the walk-off. This addresses both conservation by forgoing impacting the cliff-tops & safety by trying to prevent inadvertent rockfall while walking along the cliff-top.

As to take & lower or off belay & rap. We've had a few posts on this, it can be done safely either way on a low angle to straight-up vertical face -- just don't call for off belay, then expect a take & lower.

Aside from whether or not the fixed pro is replaceable and what causes wear the most on the anchor -- I think here this issue has been addressed many times -- the following discusses a safety concern of the technical setup:

I think the main safety problem is the need for tramming. This is a position where the climb either traverses and/or has overhangs to surmount. On the way up, a climber just follows the bolt line (or natural seam for trad gear); any fall and it's usually clean hang off the gear just like in the gym.

On descent, tramming allows the climber to be lowered and clean the gear so as to follow the ropeline -- simply clipping a draw from the harness to the back end of the ropeline while remaining on belay.

Rappelling is difficult in this situation and will require penjis & underswings -- If rappelling, this is where the rappeller would need the third hand friction hitch. A fireman's will not adequately protect the rap as, once gear is cleaned, there is nothing to stop the rappeller from the slack in the system they just created if the penji traverse or overhanging swing is dramatic enough and the rappeller needs both hands to maintain position & while cleaning gear.

I think this is really where the dispute is occurring between the 2 schools of thought about how to safely descend a 1/2 rope length sport line; which can use fixed pro, trad gear, or both; the protection isn't the issue, it's positioning & learning how to read terrain.

Unfortunately one method wears on the anchor, climber's & belayers don't know proper communication, they don't have the proficiency to adapt a technical system, and/or they can't judge terrain & physics of a given situation. So, I'm sure we'll continue to keep having these discussions & safety incidents.

The short answer is:

Lowering off anchors and TRing off of them makes them wear faster, a lot faster.

I don't know why anyone would scorn someone rappelling off of a fixed anchor--but I'm sure someone can give me an example. I don't think it's that common.

--Marc

Maybe my post was too wordy in trying to address all the issues to decide how to get down to terra firma. If there's a choice between conservation & safety, I'm going with 5.10's words:

Whatever is the safer descent.

I'm not going to go around and be the fixed pro police at a sporty crag.

I have to admit that I've lowered off at the end of a session more than I should. Usually it is a matter of just being tired and lazy.

The only time I have TR'ed off anchors were those times when we THOUGHT we were done, cleaned the draws, but then some dumbass pipes up and wants just one more lap. It always irks me, but I have to plead guilty to endulging the request more often than not.

I do keep quicklinks along on most trips for swapping out when needed. I think often people freak out disproportionetly to the severity of the crime when you are taking <1% of the life of $6 of hardware.

Now I'm just rambling...

Rappel cleaning is certainly well intentioned, but unnecessarily dangerous for sport routes (or trad routes unless retreating from bad gear mid-pitch). The climbing media seems to have spread advice that we should all clean on rappel as a way to reduce wear on anchor rings.

Because climbers want to do the right thing, rappel cleaning has become popular. The fact that so many people are willing to rap-clean says to me that climbers are not to be underestimated in willingness to help. I want to help people learn how to fix any worn anchors using just a small crescent wrench and $20 of stuff from Home Depot.

Winch hooks and quick links eliminate both the need to rap-clean and thread anchors. They have been used for more than ten years now in the Owens River Gorge. They call them "mussy hooks" in California. I hear they are used back east, at Rumney, too. All these routes will only need the $5 hooks replaced in the future because the links will have no wear.

Anyone who can lead a pitch should be able to fix a worn anchor. Here is what to do if you'd like to help. First, get links (3,300lb), hooks (1,000kg+), paint (two colors for cammo if your area is pretty), and a small crescent wrench. If painting is needed, then do that ahead of time. Carry one set with you to the crags when your in the mood to do good.

Here's a rough procedure to follow at the end of a lead. First, commit to hanging on two draws, going off-belay, and hauling up two links, two hooks, the adjustable wrench, and belay gloves. Go back on belay, even though your still on the draws for safety. Screw on the links and hooks. Use the crescent to finish. Just tight enough to prevent wrench-less theft. The system will twist before pushing back against your wrenching. Once both links are done, clip the rope into the hooks and "take!" tension. Hoist up on the hooks so the draws are weightless and the hooks carry the full load. Then unclip the draws and get lowered off.

See the intro page for the Overhang Area at Colorado's Golden Cliffs, aka North Table Mtn, in Golden Colorado. I put a picture and comment with the details of what to look for at Home Depot.

Thanks for bringing this topic to the web, Sara. My wife, Marsha, and I just installed $200 worth of hooks up at the Overhang Area and Winterfest Wall up at Table. Your timing was perfect.

Ken, I would be interested in learning a bit more about replacing hardware. I was saying to my partner this weekend that I wouldn't be opposed to lowering off if I were the one going up there and replacing the gear when it gets worn out. Since I am not, rapping seems like my best option. I was just incredibly confused when, at red rocks last weekend, some climber made under-the-breath remarks overheard by my partner when I was cleaning and rapping off anchors at a very popular area. The debate continues... in the meantime can you PM me with details of your methods/hardware?

TRing and lowering off anchors increases wear. I don't see it as a safety issue, since to lower mostly you have to untie anyway. When you lower, the rope and all the grit on it grinds down the anchor. When you rap, the rope has no weight on it when it pulls so the wear is infinitely less.

Note the excessive wear on this anchor. Its open nature leads to lots of TRing and lowering off of it. Those carabiners are stainless steel, not aluminum.

Just lower off, fer cripes sake and replace the anchor when it wears out in 20 years.

With all due respect, Greg, the bolt in your photo example was poorly placed. Gouging out the rock to fit that type of hanger was a bad idea for several reasons. One was the unnecessary alteration of the rock, and the other is that the bolt should have been placed in such a way that alternative styles of hangers could have been used as a replacement when that hanger eventually wore out.

Regarding rappeling as the preferred method of lowering from sport routes, it isn't realistic to believe that it will happen, so the best solution, IMO, is not to worry about it. All hangers eventually wear out. They are easy and inexpensive to replace. My suggestion is that climbers carry a few hangers and nuts in their packs as a matter of habit, just as seasoned trad climbers carry rap rings and extra slings. It is also a good idea to keep a light-weight wrench in your pack. When you encounter a hanger that is so worn out that it is in danger of breaking, just replace it. These items should be standard equipment for sport climbers.

It is called being prepared - something that more climbers would be wise to learn.

I agree with you Ken. Yes, in an ideal world, we'd all rap off the anchors, but this isn't happening nor will it start happening more. It takes so little time and effort to replace a hanger (one properly placed of course) that it's not really an issue. Every area has (or should have) a group of dedicated stewards who pay attention to things such as wear on the anchors. That these people are largely unsung is a different issue. I'd say, put a few extra hangers in your pack and make sure to communicate with those who take pride in replacing hardware. Throw them a few bucks for their effort too.

Marc Horan wrote:I don't know why anyone would scorn someone rappelling off of a fixed anchor--but I'm sure someone can give me an example. I don't think it's that common. --Marc

In order to rap off the anchor on a sport route, you have to carry along a belay device during the redpoint burn. That's needless weight if you ask me.

Jay Knower wrote:...belay device [is] needless weight if you ask me.

This is hilarious. Do you really find an ATC and a 'biner to be too heavy to sport climb with? Do you climb without a shirt on 40 degree days to save weight also?

--Marc

It was a joke, Marc.

Ken Cangi wrote:It was a joke, Marc.

Thanks. I thought that was a bit out there.

--Marc

I usually rappel, mostly, 'cause I hate being lowered. But, also slightly, to save wear and tear on the anchor.

The clip and lower anchors are convenient, but, in any area with any traffic at all, they wear out sometimes in a season or less.

Anchor at Massone in Arco Italy. Not too hard to replace, but, will need it soon.

I kinda like the rapide to a Fixe ring (or O-P ring, Faders, etc). Distributes wear well. But, not "clip and go". Would require threading a rope.