Self-rescue techniques
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I'd like to know more self-rescue techniques than I already do. I've practiced escaping the belay, prussiking up a rope, and rapping with an injured climber. But I wouldn't know how to handle certain situations. For example, what do you do when you're four pitches up, the leader is more than half a rope length up and takes a nasty fall that leaves him out cold? Any good self-rescue books out there? I've been looking at getting David Fasulo's Self-Rescue book. Thanks for your feedback. |
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Yes, basically a good one to start is that. |
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I have the Fasulo book and agree it's a great place to start. Lots of pictures and it's pretty straightforward. Not exhaustive, but good enough to give you the base you need to figure out most situations. Acutally performing the tasks with a weighted line is much much different and good practice. |
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Adam: "Oh that happens all the time.. Not!" |
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Other than learning actual rescue mechanics, don't forget to add a Wilderness First Aid course to your repertoire! What are you going to do in the (quite probable) multitude of hours before SAR or other emergency personnel arrive for yourself or your partner? Not to mention that WFA teaches you things you need to know that urban First Aid does not (like how to move and physically assess someone where spine trauma is uncertain... Normal first aid teaches you to "never" move anyone and rarely to touch them in this circumstance, but that don't fly when help is a lot longer than 30 minutes away). |
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I'm not advocating not using CPR, but it does have substantial limitations in the backcountry. The big point I see is that CPR does not restart a heart rhythm; & more than not, this is a result from a trauma related incident. I guess if one of the climber M.D.s has a better thought, I'm all ears (er - eyes); but there may be nothing to gain even if everyone at the belay anchor has their card. |
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Jason, I hear ya. Some WFA programs around CO are/have been revamped to include lecture & field training; though not nearly as involved as WFR. |
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At times I think we need to re-consider "self rescue" through different lenses. Though learning the pure technical skills necessary to wiggle out of a nasty scenario (e.g. described above) is of value, don't neglect the skills necessary to avoid such things from happening. |
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Of course I would rather take Wilderness First Responder, but unless someone is willing to pay me for a week off from work and the $600+ fee for the course, I think WFA is a pretty damn good substitute for 2 days and $150. |
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Edward Burin des Roziers wrote: Any good self-rescue books out there? I've been looking at getting David Fasulo's Self-Rescue book. Thanks for your feedback.Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis. This book is excellent. I couldn't believe I hadn't heard of it and that my good for nuthin' partners hadn't read it. Excellent resource, but any professional climbing guide will tell you that you lose it if you don't use it. Practice. amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Re… |
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Mike Morley, to clarify what I said: |
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I'm sorry I kinda help push us into a medical tangent also. |
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Seth Green wrote:At times I think we need to re-consider "self rescue" through different lenses. Though learning the pure technical skills necessary to wiggle out of a nasty scenario (e.g. described above) is of value, don't neglect the skills necessary to avoid such things from happening.Seth, I agree with this in principle, but there are many uncontrollable factors to climbing (ie rock fall) that could get even the most experienced climbers in trouble. I can understand the importance of choosing a route that's right for you, having the skills to place good pro, recognizing when not to fall, etc. What kind of other skills should I be thinking about to avoid bad situations? I've not yet taken any first aid classes beyond listening to a 2 hour presentation on basic first aid, which probably won't do me any good in the field beyond slapping on a bandaid. But I am seriously considering taking a more involved course like WFR. I'd be curious to find out how many climbers have had some type of aid training. Probably not the majority, I'm guessing. I think Mark got to the questions behind my question with these: "How can we prepare ourselves before we seek adventure? When something happens, are we safe & how can we get safe?" On a side note, I'm fumbling around alot tying the mule knot while the rope is weighted. I'm keeping my break hand close to the belay device and trying to tie the knot with my other hand only, and releasing the break hand once the knot is finished. But tying this knot with one hand is hard. Does it just come with practice or can you use your break hand sometime before the knot is finished? |
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Whether a Mule knot on a Munter or an ATC, consider "pinching" the brake, i.e. at the device/hitch, with your nondominant hand, and tying the Mule with your dominant hand. Takes some practice but with live weight it's not very hard to keep from slipping. |