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islandertek
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Oct 29, 2007
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Parker, CO
· Joined Sep 2007
· Points: 65
Does anyone climb out at Coal Creek Canyon (Not Clear Creek Canyon!)???? I only found two mixed ice routes on here. That place has some huge canyon walls, and I guess I expected more trad and sport routes to be posted. Not a very popular spot I take it. Maybe a lot of first ascents waiting to be claimed????? Let me know what you think of the place, and maybe some tips on some routes! Thanks!!!
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Mike Lane
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Oct 29, 2007
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
Lots of private land and few pullouts for parking. But I know someone who has been active up there. That 200' tombstone about 5 miles in would be famous if it weren't on some guy's ranch.
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Leo Paik
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Oct 30, 2007
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Westminster, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 22,830
Yeah, like many areas, there are lots of challenges with figuring out what is public and what is not. Definitely climbing happening up there. Folks not wanting to bring too much attention without figuring out property lines is at least partly responsible or lack of publicity. Best not to bring the drill out until you figure that out.
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Mike Lane
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Oct 30, 2007
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
I'm kind surprised (but not all that much) that no one has gone "Sport Park" on the little overhanging Quartzite thing at the mouth of the canyon yet. There's also a 40' (+/-) tower off the road @ 4 miles in as I remember.
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Leo Paik
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Oct 31, 2007
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Westminster, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 22,830
It may be respect for the rock, the landowner(s), or the law.
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Umph!
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Oct 31, 2007
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2004
· Points: 180
There is plenty of good climbing up there - I've/we've climbed many lines. The slab/crags right off the road are on private property? I'm not too sure about that, as I've climbed on them and some good stuff farther up on several occassions. We have several lines on a crag we've named "Chapel", as it's above the church/chapel, and I know that this is public (though parking is tricky for you non-locals). There is gobs of good stuff, just be careful with the trundles and weary of the neighbors. Stop by the Boulder USFS for a property map - there is alot of public land up there. Good idea in NOT bringing your drill up - could annoy the neighbors, and besides, it's Tradiban territory!
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Mike Lane
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Oct 31, 2007
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
I've heard when you're caught in Tradiban territory with a drill they force you to climb until you actually get your feet over your gear.
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islandertek
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Nov 1, 2007
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Parker, CO
· Joined Sep 2007
· Points: 65
Does anyone know of a Topo for that canyon?? Or is it still under creation?? What would you say the difficulty ratings are for most of the routes that any of you have climbed out there?? I wanted to bring my next generation climber with me (my 6 year old daughter!!!) and I was wondering if there was any top rope areas that anyone might know of?? She is an awesome climber(5.10's on T.R, but she can't belay me yet for TRAD, but she's learning to place pro!!) and she is tired of climbing at Castlewood Canyon, North Table, and Look out. I wanted to treat her to something that is not so populated(Coal Creek). We go to Devil's Head sometimes, but she gets tuckered out after some of the hikes!! Any suggestions?? Thanks!!
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Kitty Turner
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Nov 1, 2007
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Louisville, CO
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 0
As a resident of Coal Creek Canyon, let me offer a few words of caution: 1. Many of the rock formations along the road are privately owned. A lot of the tracts of land go straight up the hill. 2. cameron has a good suggestion to get the property map for the area. You may also need to check in Jefferson county and Gilpin county because Coal Creek Canyon runs through 3 counties. Know what's private and what's public land before you go there. 3. Please respect the rights of the property owners. If it is marked "Private" or if you don't know for sure, please don't trespass. People in the canyon take property rights very seriously and don't appreciate trespassers. 4. While I don't want to make the canyon residents sound like a bunch of misanthropes, we live there because we value our privacy and our rights. We expect others to do the same. 5. You might try Golden Gate Canyon State Park if you're looking for less populated climbing areas. There's a lot of good climbing back there and few or no access issues. Thanks, Kitty Turner
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