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2x4 protection

Original Post
Christopher Jones · · Denver, Colorado · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 910

Has anyone ever pounded 2x4s into wide cracks for pro? There are a few wide cracks that I want to do that are too wide for big bros. I hope this doesn't sound stupid. I just wanted to know if anyone has done this before.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

One of the Horn brothers did precisely that for the first ascent of Horn's Mother. Typically, 2x4s work more like a tube chock or big bro, bridging the crack rather than being pounded in like a big wooden pin.

Bill Olszewski · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 11,277

John Mendenhall and Harry Sutherland used them (as pitons) during their FA of the Open Book at Tahquitz in 1947 (5.8 A2), later freed by Royal Robbins and Don Wilson to establish the country's first 5.9 in 1952. I had heard a rumor that Robbins also used a 2x4 on the wide second pitch.

I don't think the kN rating for soft pine is very high... ;-)

Charlie Perry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 20

I would suggest that you have ample insurance and 911 on your cells speed dial if you are really planning on using a 2X4. DAAAH!

Jimn Seiler · · North Platte, NE · Joined May 2004 · Points: 440

I would obviously try to place the 2x4 with the wide side facing you. You will get a lot more strength out of it that way.

Todd Gordon · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 10,796

There is a "fixed" 2X4 on the Totem Pole in Monument Valley hammered in a wide section. I have also used 2X4 pieces and large cams wedged together for aid moves......if the cam isn't big enough, just set the wood next to the cam and them body weight it....it works!....(barely...).......I also found a wooden wedge "piton" on Tahquitz;.....I believe they were commonly used in the 40's and 50's....I have placed a 2X4 in a horizontal at Joshua Tree and stood on it to hand drill a bolt......I have also seen pictures of climbers who have used pieces of wood to rap off of (body weight) and then just wiggling the rope and the rope and wood come down after the rap!..(Monument Basin , Canyonlands...Crusher and Strappo?).......climbers have been "sportin' wood" for decades.

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620

You should also give serious consideration to the fact that modern 2x4s are made of a much weaker quality of wood. The wood that was used in the fifties came from older, larger, stronger trees. There were more growth rings on these trees, and these rings were closer together, giving the wood significantly more strength. Modern studs are made from very young, farmed trees, and the wood is quite flimsy in comparison.

I am not certain how relevant this would be for you application, although I would make some extensive tests before entrusting your life to them.

Christopher Jones · · Denver, Colorado · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 910

Thanks for the replies. I would probably only place one or two pieces for peace of mind. I most definitely would inspect the wood knowing how today's wood is much weaker. One of the routes that I want to try this on does not have much pro for the first 150 feet. Maybe one or two tube chocks.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,243

Oak banisters might be a stronger option. I would cut the ends at a 15% angle and drill the side angled up for your sling.

Actually I probably wouldn't bother as I prefer the harsh reality of death and disfiguration to the warm fuzzy's of psychological pro. If you fell in a chimney you would probably knock the wood right out of the crack as you slithered past.

I would let you borrow my blue big bro if you want. Or you could just go do it old school style!

Alvaro of the North · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 0

If that works you've found a much cheaper alternative to big bros.

C Miller · · CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 96,685

Here's the wooden piton that Todd was talking about.



There was for many years a 2x4 fixed midway up a chimney system on the northeast face of Rock Hudson (in Joshua Tree). It's the Stahl Brothers chimney and goes at 5.9 or so.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,732

The first ascent of Horns Mother was done on oak 2X4's... Chuck Schapp hung out the Horn Brothers van-door grinding the things down to the proper shape on the drive up to the crag.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote:The first ascent of Horns Mother was done on oak 2X4's... Chuck Schapp hung out the Horn Brothers van-door grinding the things down to the proper shape on the drive up to the crag.
It was Schapp? Not what I'd read, but it makes sense.

Either way, 2x4s as wide pro predate camming devices, and to a certain extent mass produced pitons.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Christopher:

You know what you could do is nail a couple of them together, give yourself some added support/strength. You could also taper one or both ends similar to the hex design. Try them on aid to get the right fit (I'd bring a beater), then go. I'd use some good pine, untreated - just double them up.

Framing up an OW, original! Hey, you might just qualify for the old-school!

Something else you could try is stacking tri-cams.

Edward Gerety · · Miami, FL · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5
Ken Cangi wrote:You should also give serious consideration to the fact that modern 2x4s are made of a much weaker quality of wood. ... Modern studs are made from very young, farmed trees, and the wood is quite flimsy in comparison. ... .
That's really interesting. Obviously, they're still strong enough for their intended purpose (mostly framing). Has strength under compression changed, or only under shear? Do you have a strength of materials reference where I could look up the actual numbers?
Dave Miller · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Run it out......

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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