Mount Logan

Hello,
I am climbing Mt. Logan in 2010. Any advice or helpful comments are much appreciated. Possibly the East Ridge or King Trench Route. If you or someone you know has climbed Mt. Logan and wish to share information, please contact me.

Thank you,

Shane

Brian/Avery, I re-posted this thread. I will contact you directly if that's ok as I have questions regarding Mt. Logan's East Ridge and other questions about the mountain. I will be climbing with two friends who haved climbed in the Alaska Range and the Himalaya(Denali/Manaslu). Myself, I'm just getting into the mountaineering game. That is, of course, I can go.

Thanks again!

Shane Zentner wrote:Hello, I am considering climbing Mt. Logan in the spring of 2008. Any advice or helpful comments are much appreciated. Possibly the Colorado Route or King Trench Route. If you or someone you know has climbed Mt. Logan and wish to share information, please contact me.

Ski as much of the "approach" as you can. Take a bunch of food. Take a bunch of time.

We carried loads, food and fuel up high, back down to camp. Then move camp the next day. On another trip nearby, we used a nice method of double carrying on the same day, then taking a rest day the next day. Never far from the food or fuel that way.

If you haven't climbed in the St. Elias range before, be prepared for much worse storms than in, say, the Alaska range. More snow, more sustained snow and wind, and the storms seem to last a bunch longer. Take a square tent or learn to pitch your tent with four points instead of 6 or 8 as its easy to unpitch and move if you have to in a storm.

We did the East Ridge, which I'd recommend as a pretty sane route.

If you have specific questions, post 'em up here. Other folks might have similar interest...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

Hey Shane,

Check out this thread, as well:
mountainproject.com/v/north…

I also highly recommend the East Ridge if you want at trip to get away from the crowds that has several small technical challenges. A very memorable experience.

Let me know if you do decide on the ER. I have a small binder of info I copied from the AAC library before we went -- basically a handful of ER published articles.

Avery

Brian/Avery, I re-posted this thread. I will contact you directly if that's ok as I have questions regarding Mt. Logan's East Ridge and other questions about the mountain. I will be climbing with two friends who haved climbed in the Alaska Range and the Himalaya(Denali/Manaslu). Myself, I'm just getting into the mountaineering game. That is, of course, I can go.

Thanks again!

Sure, Shane -- PM me any time.

I can lend you that binder -- which is basically everything published about the route prior to 2001 (since there isn't a formal route description, per se). Also, I think I have a climber's topo.

I could probably even be talked into pdf'ing the binder.

She's a beauty of a mountain and route...

Thanks Avery, that would be awesome. Perhaps I could buy you a beer at the Southern Sun in exchange for beta and information as I have many questions regarding equipment, other routes, etc. I'll send a pm now, please respond at your convenience.

I checked out your experience on the Cassin Ridge, Denali. You are truly the alpinist. The East Ridge on Mt. Logan is incredible - a beautiful mountain with a striking ridge, it takes my breath away.

Thanks again,

Shane

Shane Zentner wrote:Brian/Avery, I re-posted this thread. I will contact you directly if that's ok as I have questions regarding Mt. Logan's East Ridge and other questions about the mountain.

Yeah, no problemo, give us a shout.

You can search the AAC website for reports on Logan (journal). Handy. We wrote one up for our trip in '95 (in the AAJ and CAJ).



When we suddenly discovered we all had the same underwear...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

My buudy climbed the E ridge in like 3 or 4 days round trip... super fast and light. I would just hang out for a while, get acclimatized properly then make a dash up and down.... before the mountain has time to kill you.. figuratively speaking of course.