Quick Links

Does anyone know of any quick link failures? What size do most of you feel comfortable with? Whenever I buy them, I get the 2200 lb strength. However, I see the 800 lb and 1500 lb strength size occasionally as well. What are your thoughts on what should be used, and what is just plain dangerous? It seems like the forces on rappel at an anchor could relatively easily get above some of the strength ratings for the smaller quick links. Thoughts?

John,

The strength ratings for quick links are usually expressed as the Working Load Limit (WLL); this is usually about 20% of the average breaking strength. See Quick Link Specs for examples.

Thus a 3/8" zinc-plated steel quick link, with a 2200-lb. Working Load Limit, will have an average breaking strength around 11,000 lbs. This is plenty strong enough for use in rappel anchors for climbing. This is the size I usually use, in conjunction with 3/8" high-test galvanized chain.

I think that a quick link with a 1500-lb. WLL would also be OK for a rap anchor, but I'd be wary of using one with an 800-lb. WLL.

Note that this differs from how carabiners are rated (guaranteed ultimate breaking strength).

I'd be extremely wary of using any size quick link unless it has been manufactured by a reputable company that is willing to stamp its own name on to each unit.

Equipment like this along with chain and shackles are built by companies that guarantee a certain design factor and that can be found in their literature. A quick link stamped by Maillon Rapide has a design factor of 5-to-1, so its breaking strength is five times as much as its working load limit.

But if the equipment is not stamped by a company, who knows what design factor the manufacturer used when building it? They could very well have used a 1:1 factor and the 3/8" that has a working load limit of 2200 pounds may in fact also break at 2200 pounds.

A shackle marked by a builder means that the company has put so much time and money into the quality control that they are extremely certain of the strength of their product. But if the "Made in China" quick link breaks, who's going to be left holding the bag?

Ron Olsen wrote:Note that this differs from how carabiners are rated (guaranteed ultimate breaking strength).

That's a very good point to emphasize about climbing gear (carabiners, protection, rope). The ratings listed usually have a design factor of 1:1.

John

John J. Glime wrote:Does anyone know of any quick link failures? What size do most of you feel comfortable with? Whenever I buy them, I get the 2200 lb strength. However, I see the 800 lb and 1500 lb strength size occasionally as well. What are your thoughts on what should be used, and what is just plain dangerous? It seems like the forces on rappel at an anchor could relatively easily get above some of the strength ratings for the smaller quick links. Thoughts?

Never heard of one failing.

I usually go with the 5/16" size as a minimum, but, more commonly (and because they're required at some areas for new routes) 3/8" or 10mm.

A friend used the 1/4"-ers all the time, which I didn't like 'cause they're teeny and they only seem to work well with skinny (ie, 8mm) rope. He tested two "made in China" ones to failure. They both broke at over 6000 lbs, within about 20 pounds of each other.

I don't worry as much about what is stamped on the unit. It's the rod stock size I'm most interested in. At 3/8", most steel rod stock would be plenty strong.

I'm not sure even the Maillon Rapide folks do much inspection or load testing on their units (or any? Anyone know?).

Funkness test might work if you're worried about gross manufacturing defects.

Found a bunch for a buck per. From 3/8" to 9/16". Makes it easy to use as "leavers" instead of a biner...

Thanks guys. I had no idea about the working load being different from the breaking strength. That is good to know. Cheers.

Brian in SLC wrote: Found a bunch for a buck per. From 3/8" to 9/16". Makes it easy to use as "leavers" instead of a biner...

But we just don't do that anymore.

The biggest issue with weaker quicklinks is the opening and bar diameter are smaller which makes a tighter bend on the rope (can make flat spots) and can make it harder to pull from the added friction. 8mm (roughly 5/16") is the smallest I'd use for the above reasons (fine for bailing) but 10mm (or 3/8") are much better for more permanent anchors as the rope pulls the best.