Pro climbers not wearing helmets

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Actually, I've very seldom seen photos of climbers wearing helmets in ANY climbing publication (e.g. Rock & Ice, Climbing).

Personally, I always wear a helmet when climbing OR belaying. Now, in the old days when helmets were heavy, hot, and very uncomfortable, I sometimes left it off (I actually came close to passing out from the heat once in Joshua Tree while wearing an old Joe Brown (was that its name? -- somehow that doesn't look right).

We got some nice comments from people who noted that all the climbers in our JTree book are wearing helmets. :-)

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D. Winger
The Trad Guide to Joshua Tree

D Winger wrote:an old Joe Brown (was that its name? -- somehow that doesn't look right)

Yes, Hugh Banner's Joe Brown fiberglass helmet.

Tom Tresslar wrote:IMHO not wearing a helmet on such a major public endeavor sends a poor message to the community and seems reckless. Has anyone else ever had similar(or different) thoughts?

Yes, I have one thought:

"I am not a role model, I am a basketball player."
-Charles Barkley

Dave Holliday wrote: Reiterating angry's point, how do you know they spent two weeks on the wall sans helmets? A photograph shows but a moment in time.

Hmmm. I guess in nearly all the photos we've seen over the years in all the climbing mags, the climbers removed their helmets just before the shot was taken so they'd look good.

I need a beauty tip here. How did all of you pros avoid "helmet hair"? I know my hair always looks pretty lousy when I remove my helmet! ;-)

I never quite got the public's fascination with imposing their wills on their idols. They're just people. If you want to be a role model then step up and do the same.

If you make someone a role model for yourself, then make that person your follow your rules, you idolize what you want, not them.

Barkely's point was great, and to the point.

sidenote regarding magazine photos: From what I thought I remember reading, I though a lot of the photos in climbing mags were staged.
i.e. There's an article about the first free ascent, and then the photography goes back with the climber to take pictures simulating his first run. Am I wrong?

I have worked a lot with film crews in climbing and skiing situations and what you may think is a natural and spontenous picture is often the complete opposite.

However, it still amazes me the number of people I see climbing at popular venues like Eldo without a helmet.

I guess they haven't taken on the Green Spur/Rewritten area; they'd probably change their mind, rapidly.

I've got a helmet on in my photo, and so does Mark. Take that Tommy!

This sounds like the kind of conversation that goes on at RC.com. Please keep it there!

Chris Sheridan wrote:I've got a helmet on in my photo, and so does Mark. Take that Tommy!

Mine's more of a noggin coffin; and don't forget my lime football cat!

As far a mandating a helmet. To each their own. I don't like climbing without one; but I'm sick and tired of hearing drama bs on the news about wearing a helmet as if it would safe a life from an 800' free fall. The only thing that a helmet might save me from is getting a concussion from some small debris and/or ice. Climbing in control & watching my lead rope around my legs is a hell of lot more preventative.

I ski some serious stuff since I was a 5 year old tyke; won't ever wear a helmet, I ski way too fast for it to do any good. Call 9 News, I'm a degenerate. But a season pass holder to Mary Jane since back in the day before Carter; but probably well after Bob D invented the wheel to get to his next crag.

Chris Sheridan
1 day ago
I've got a helmet on in my photo, and so does Mark. Take that Tommy!

Tommy Caldwell can climb 5.14 - 5.15 minus a left index finger. I'm sure he does not put a lot of thought into whether or not anyone wears a helmet.

Touche

Ryan Palo wrote:This sounds like the kind of conversation that goes on at RC.com. Please keep it there!

Ha, yeah. However, we've yet to see the "OMG troll", "You're a f'ing retard", or "This thread has been done a thousand times you stupid n00b" posts.

Most of the pictures you'll see in a magazine are posed. Ever wonder why their sponsor's logos are always showing, the clothes are clean, they don't have a 5 day beard, etc? I've seen plenty of pictures of the Huber brothers wearing helmets though, and a few gritstone helmeted ascents too.

Helmets in skiing didn't really take off until the new-school free skiers like Johnny Mosely started making them 'cool', so maybe it'd take some similar action for it to happen with climbing.

(Also, this thread should probably be moved to the 'General' forum)

Now that my hasty, tongue and cheek comment has gotten some responses, I guess its time for a more thoughtful response.

I used to work at a summer camp where children were allowed to paddle canoes on the lake without life jackets. We taught them how to swim, tested their swimming ability above and beyond what they would need if a canoe flipped in the middle of the lake, and stuck by our camp directors viewpoint that skill, not equipment is what keeps children (and adults) safe. I am proud that I helped teach this lesson.

Safety equipment does save lives, but often times equipment inspires a false sense of security and thus complacency. I can personally attest that complacency in the mountains can get you really hurt. With that in mind, I personally see nothing reckless about Tommy's helmetless assent of El Cap.

Chris

I wear a helmet on any multi-pitch climb and any lead. When I was climbing at Devils Tower a kid from NOLS was above us and dropped his belay device and if my partner and I had not been wearing our helmets it would not have been good.I suppose Tommy has the luxury of rarely being on a route with people above him.

They're wearing helmets on this climb: video.google.com/videoplay?…

I went climbing this weekend without a helmet.

Nothing happened.