Climbers in Evergreen...

Recently I heard that there is a crag called Maxwell Falls off of Hwy 73. They said that you turn off 73 by the big yellow barn. Is this true? Anyone have anymore info on this spot?

Also I noticed lots of rocks on 74 down toward Morrison, near Lair O' the Bear Park. Are they on private property or can they be climbed? It sure would be nice to have a crag so close to home.

I'd be interested in hearing more about this 'maxwell falls' area. Lots of decent rock in that area... good enough for a little cragging.

I scrambled around some rock up that way and found two sets of anchors presumably for toprope anchors. I am not sure exactly how many routes there are or their difficulty but they appear somewhat easy and short. The best way to get there is to go up Brook Forest Road to the upper parking lot and the rocks are about 3/4 mile down the trail. There is a distinct climbers trail that appears at a major switchback. If you look carefully you can see orange blazes tied to trees the entire way up. I heard the CMC established the anchors for beginner classes.

kirk

Shantel, RE: Maxwell, Yes, from 73 to Shadow Mtn Dr - it's a turn that abuts the new parking lot for the Flying J Open Space Park - this road goes to Maxwell, it changes from Shadow Mtn to Black Mtn to Brook Forest Rd, but it's basically the same road.

Don't count on those idiot tape markings to be on the trees, I take them off after about every weekend; and try to pick up as much as I can for shotgun shells & .45 caps, broken bottles that are still a problem. This area has established trails and is not considered backcountry, you can find the cliffs by taking the obvious trails, it's not far from the parking.

Cliffs are mostly short sections that all can be walked around. There are three to four bolt anchors for top-roping, three are in the same area near the Sickle crack (5.8). The fourth anchor I think someone put in for an overhang that is not near the Sickle area. Someone also established, very recently, 2 sport climbs on a lower slab that are indistinct from where a person usually hikes.

1 was bolted over a line I freed with gear about 6 years ago, then freed it sans rope, while messing around with my bro & his buddies -- two to three of the bolts could have taken a cam instead; the other line is a good one, with nice positive slab holds, both I think are about 20-25 meters. The bolts are solid and the anchor is located where you can't see it (from the top), but it works really well.

Don't get the impression that I'm upset that the line I freed with my bro has been bolted (I'm sure other people have freed the lines also), it's an ok line, besides I'd like to see more climbers in this area having a good weekend day (although, I wish whoever installed them would have at least asked about the 2 lines they put in -- I could've helped you put another line that needs a couple of bolts. No, I won't chop them, you already f*cked up one bolt and had to redrill another, all I'd be doing is inviting more drilling on the same line. But, you should patch the chopped stud.)

I think you would need 7 draws (bring a couple more in case I'm wrong, climbed them yesterday, but I can't remember). It's hard to tell you where these 2 routes are, they are on a lower slab that is well hidden from the casual observer; if you find them, you won't be disappointed, nice and shady.

Overall, this place is just a practice area, but it's fun to get out for a day and play with your friends & little ones, very low commitment and abundance of trees all over the place for any anchor.

I would say anything from 5.2 to 5.5, with a few problems at 5.7-5.9 and one or two at 5.10 to 5.11. I think there may be a possibility of 2 @ 5.11-5.12, but have never attempted nor seen anyone else try some overhanging flarey slabby stuff.

Don't forget bouldering, shoot, just pick something, it's more crimpy friction type problems, but I bet you could find something to offend yourself.

If you meet Joe & his wife out taking pictures or having a picnic, say hey, he likes to chat with climbers. He's a big bird watcher & comes around about every weekend.

There are a few boulders about a 1/2 mile into the Maxwell Falls trail from the Lower Maxwell Falls trailhead. I did the hike for the first time yesterday. I didn't explore enough to see how extensive the bouldering options are but there are at least two rocks with a few lines that have seen some use based on the amount of chalk. Unfortunately, hiking was the priority for the day and I didn't have time to work the problems. Is anyone familiar with these boulders/problems?

Surprised there isn't anything written up about 3 Sisters. I've spent many a bouldering session there. Also there are at least three TR routes on one cliff band and I've done a moderate trad lead on the eastern edge of one of the sisters. Anybody know where to dig up some additional info?

three sisters is fun, Colorado bouldering 2 has some info, I haven't ever seen any bolts. anyone climb the boulder north of the library on the west side of the road? looks like 2 nice crack lines. I too have heard about Maxwell falls, don't know where to find beta though. My climbing partner has mentioned there are some boulders there he has wanted to look at for a while now.

Jay, not too much to offer as far as beta for Maxwell other than what I've already mentioned. It's a bunch of small problems. And also bouldering.

For just a couple of people looking to get some practice in, you may get a few problems set with an anchor and that's about it, because it takes a good deal of time to extend and equalize a TR problem with slings, webbings, and/or static lines. You may find that just bringing the crash pad is good enough for what you find and with less hassle.

Imagine the Boulderado but with about half the height for a climbing line and just a few cracks. The sickle is a good one though, short and sustained (has fixed pro for a quick anchor - a webalette works well -- if you aren't using it to walk your dog, about the only other use I've had for one).

There's a bunch of stuff at Maxwell, but the area doesn't lend itself to do much for gear & lead work (and/or aid work). It just takes multiple outings to find stuff to your liking and plan an anchor.

Honestly, I've found N Table to offer better lines & more workable leads with the short vertical basalt & fixed protection; if a climber wanted to get some practice done, N Table is really where I get something accomplished and has helped me tremendously when climbing vertical terrain like Eldo (man, that place is much different during the week than on the weekend; maybe I shoulda taken the last few years off of work, I'd probably be sick strong!)

(good friends help also, muchas gracias by the way).

ps - no 4-wheelin at Maxwell :(

yea from what I have seen at maxwell falls it's not really worth the trip for me. I would agree about N table, lots of gear routes to practice on and aid, easy ones too that I have roped soloed before. I also like look-out mountian, I went aid climbing there last winter. I have climbed there on many occasions, if your timing is good and you have the place to your self I have found you can climb variations like: right 5.8 crack, traverse left under roof to crack running through the roof, (5.9 to 5.10 finger crack route) then left to the anchors.

Hey Mark just curious, do you know of the routes in marshdale? There shut down now obviously, I went there a while ago before it was shut down. I climbed a rope stretching pitch on natural features to the top, but I also noticed quite a few bolts on the cliff and at the top.

Ps. Any one know of the routes up 103 (near evans)? as far as I know it is national forest land. routes seem stiff. Nice bolts all over, even TR anchors.

There is a top rope bolt anchor on a very short crag at Three Sisters. The crag is located near the Eggs Boulders listed in Colorado Bouldering 2. Take the Hidden Fawn Trail from the east parking lot and hike 10 to 15 minutes. When you see a "closed for revegitation" sign look to your right (east) and you will see the crag. The bolts are near a large corner. They are near the edge and down-sloping so be careful. Several TR options are available but be very wary of a pendulum fall into the corner. Better to use the large trees on the back side of the crag and long slings or a static rope.
The straight up TR to the bolts is probably 5.8-ish. Other variations (watch that pendulum!) are 5.4 to 5.6.

I also have to say that I think it is totally ludicrous that someone bolted a 25 foot crag.

It is silly they put bolts up there, and they aren't even placed well to boot. Bring some long slings or a cordelette to tie into the trees behind the bolts. You can lead a line to the left of the anchors.

Why? Well because I had my rack with me that day and I wanted to see if you can get anything in. It's not sustained enough to ever do again and might have a 5.9 move at the beginning but that's about it.

It's a shame that there aren't any larger features there. It's really nice rock in an idyllic location.

That wall has some fun bouldering problems on it.

Mark,

Regarding your comments on Aug 10:

"The other line is a good one, with nice positive slab holds, both I think are about 20-25 meters. The bolts are solid and the anchor is located where you can't see it (from the top), but it works really well."

First of all thank you for your the comments on the left route at Maxwell Falls my partner and I established those lines this spring. The fouled bolt was my fault and I do intend on fixing it. My partner was injured in a construction accident a few weeks after we bolted it and we haven't made it back. A screwdriver through the forearm can slow down your climbing career. We intentionally placed the anchors well below the lip because we saw what people had been doing to others in the area.

"1 was bolted over a line I freed with gear about 6 years ago, then freed it sans rope, while messing around with my bro & his buddies -- two to three of the bolts could have taken a cam instead"

Regarding the right of the two routes, We did not bolt the crack climb if so we did a lousy job of it. The bolts while close are to far to the right to clip from the crack. We clibmed that crack as well and had no intention of bolting it. The bolts are for climbing the right side of the face (left hand clips) well out of reach of the crack. We believe that they are well within most climbers ethical standards. I have climbed far worse in places like Clear Creek. I invite you to try the route on the right side and tell me what you think. We put it around 5.10+, you tell me. If we wanted to bolt cracks we could have gone to the slab above or 100ft to the left. We did do the crack 100ft to the left with gear and found it quite enjoyable. There we decided not to place anchors because there is a good tree there.

Let me know if you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them,
Eric

hey guys lots of great information here. I was wondering how you might feel about posting in the routes section so that it is a little bit more objective. I am new to mountain project so i dont know how that works perse. I plan on heading out there today or tomorrow.

ben

Eric, I think we are talking about your leftmost line. The right line is cool -- I need to climb it again.

It's hard to explain what I see without climbing the lines with each other; you may have a totally different line in mind. Sorry to hear about your friend, hope he recovers ok; I've seen some construction accidents that are far worse. It's never a good thing to hear about.

With respect to your left most boltline; what I would have done with it is established it as a mixed pro-line; which I think 3 of the bolts prevent a good sized runout & groundfall; but, I think there are cam placements available in lieu of other bolts. Try climbing either route by not using the first bolt & use an alien while hanging from a thumbstack/ringlock; ouch!, but it is possible -- totally committing section though, and dangerous for the ankle.

I also like another line that is a little more to the left. It ends in an open book-like feature but needs a bolt to exit the section; it would be a cool route, but I think you'd need to continue to the tree; I don't think your anchor will work for it.

Have you looked at the main overhang that is pretty much in plain view of the hiking trail? It looks doable, but in rapping it, the rock looks suspect, and might be more of a benefit from fixed pro; there's a bolt anchor on top; that I think was either for rap practice (we're not using as a CMC tool, someone else put it in) or for a line that is more climber's left and not as difficult. Then, I saw a wild overhanging flare to the right of the main overhang area; I believe two bolts would be needed to fire it, but it would be a hard problem for sure. I could go on and on, I seem to find something new every time I go there.

Jason Kaplan wrote: Hey Mark just curious, do you know of the routes in marshdale? There shut down now obviously, I went there a while ago before it was shut down. I climbed a rope stretching pitch on natural features to the top, but I also noticed quite a few bolts on the cliff and at the top.

The Ocelot has some really unique climbing -- vertical, but flarey cracks & really hard face moves.

It sounds to me like you climbed near the obvious spire on the southern-most rock. I would give the finish crack an .8, the start sections are really blocky, maybe a .6 move here & there.

There is a bolt line climbers right for about 30M -- the only thing I can say about that route: how did they come up with the positions of the bolts?? It's a hard moderate line with a really really cool undercling move, but the placement of the bolts is baffling; this used to end at some old chains, but I couldn't find them the last time I was there.

There are a few routes just under a Y shaped tree that are about 30M, these are good .9, .9, & .10b lines and also a .8 natural line -- all can be top-roped no problem (Tim Silvers got the .10b onsight a few years back, nice!).

There is a low 5th class chimney slot facing Marshdale, which offers a wild solo. Walter Huber & I freed a striking natural line that is left of the spire and just goes straight up the face -- finger tip crack to stems to face & into a chimney, about 50+M. Good onsight by Walter, I asked him what he thought about it, but he's modest; the stem section was R/X (we both thought the pro would have come right out in a fall), this was about a .8; however, the initial section was more difficult, but offered great pro; probably mid-.10 for the start; after the stem, the grade eased to .7-.6 face to chimney on good rock.

There is another crack near that goes fingers into nothing. We tried that, my bro & his buddies tried it, we thought .11, but we couldn't get it. You can go up the scramble chimney facing Marshdale and TR it with some webbing around a block.

Oh, there's also another freaky freaky mixed-pro line on a lower & smaller rock with one bolt. Cam with a double-lengthed sling, go for the bolt, hopefully you make it to the tree. I would say there is a no fall zone on this line.

The northern-most rock is the real deal. I don't know all the routes there, but looking at .11 to .12's. There are anchors, but looked mostly like flarey hard stuff with overhangs; right up the alley for the REALangry to work on. There is a modern sport route that is hidden -- got kicked out before I could work on it :(

ps - there's a guy that will pull a gun on you if you go back too far into the forest (which is actually still on public park land). Don't park @ Marshdale during the week during school hours (which no-one has). & don't climb there right now, as you noted.

Hopefully, the restrictions on our "Aesthetic" & "Noisy" & "Unsanitary" belligerence will abate, so that we can enjoy the park as well as those already playing wargames with paintball guns & bikers & picnic'ers & all those others that the surrounding homeowners approve of being in the public park, including jackasses that throw beer bottles all over the friggin area. But to look at a climber on the rock, AH! call the cops...

Many of the climbs up at Ocelot where put up by some "Garth and Wayne" types from the Denver area in the mid to late seventies. No bolts where but in, but a few pins here and there. The bolts first started going in during the mid-eighties. Some on old established routes.See Climbing magazine Feb. 1980 (I think) for details. To bad it's shut down, I have a few, granted, vague memories from climb's there. The back rock really is good climbing.

I know this is kind of off topic but I was wondering if anyone in the area wanted to climb tommorow. I am open to climbing anywhere at any time. If interested the best way to get ahold of me is via cell phone at 505-699-1326. I will also check my email earlt tommorow morning. Thanks
Kirk

Another topic relating to Evergreen:

There's a ladies climbing evening on Tuesdays @ the Buchanan Rec Ctr. Caroline (sp?) probably would like to see more participants; it's a pretty laid back group, with the men-folk welcomed as rope guns (probably could get some climbs in too).

If interested check it out:
evergreenrecreation.com/bpr…

Tuesdays 5-7pm

Probably would have to do some sort of pre-check out for belay skills. If anyone knows better about climbing here on Tues eves, please pony up the info.

Garth & Wayne types - excellent! Though I'd prefer some more Cassandra types; or better yet, Dreamwoman.

Is anyone familiar with this boulder problem at Three Sisters/ Alderfer that is releatively hidden and unknown?
It is a traverse on the north side of the northern-most Sister.
It starts on the low left side and traverses right, going slightly up. It is on really uniquely featured stone.
Benningfield's guide missed this one and I feel that it is one of the best problems in the park.

In refrence to the freaky freaky line Mark spoke about with the single bolt, make sure to use slings to eliminate the evil rope drag that can occur. I also suppose that it would help if we could even climb there... :-(

Tom Hanson wrote:Is anyone familiar with this boulder problem at Three Sisters/ Alderfer that is releatively hidden and unknown? It is a traverse on the north side of the northern-most Sister. It starts on the low left side and traverses right, going slightly up. It is on really uniquely featured stone. Benningfield's guide missed this one and I feel that it is one of the best problems in the park.

Hey Tom, talk to the boys down at Thrillseekers, as I know a few of them have been very active in developing this area for years now.