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Potter climbs Delicate, what's your opinion?

Original Post
Doug Argyle · · Green Mountain Falls, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 576

On Sunday morning Dean Potter made what is most likely the first modern ascent of Utah's Delicate Arch. He free soloed the arch a number of times in the early hours of the day. He did use white chalk.

What is your opinion of this?

Anita Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

rape the land--under any guise. Obscene.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Is the issue that he climbed it or that he discolored it with chalk when he climbed it?

Tea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 223

Can't imagine that the NPS wouls be too thrilled about that stunt, especially breaking the only rule for climbing that they have in arches. Oh well. Any pictures? Surely it was a photographed stunt...guess we'll be seeing that in an upcoming Patagucci catalog....it should help me decide to buy some more overpriced undies.

John J. Glime · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 1,160

I hate the use of chalk, come on Dean, this is Utah not Chalkorado.

The Access Fund probably won't dig riling up the Park Service.

A Patagonia picture probably won't help anything... If he wanted to climb it, no problem. Leave no trace and then no harm no foul. The chalk and possibly publicizing the act probably won't help anyone.

Other than those two issues, I have no problem with it. He should head to Mt. Rushmore next and climb some presidents!

John J. Glime · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 1,160

Uh oh. One of my 12 year old students just randomly asked me if I saw the guy that climbed Delicate Arch without any ropes or gear. He said he saw it on Fox News and that they interviewed him.

Not good.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

So I take it the issue is that he climbed it.

John J. Glime · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 1,160

I don't have a problem that he climbed it, but I have an issue with the publicizing. If you are climbing for the publicity, you have some issues, and if you climb a state symbol for the publicity, you have some real issues. However, from what I know of Dean, this doesn't sound like him.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Sounds fair enough to me, John. I don't think we are talking about "the rape of the land" though. It's not as if he is trying to dynamite the feature to see how the arch blows apart, or strip mine the area, or dump the missing plutonium from Rocky Flats (way off topic now). Utah & chalkless - I don't know about that, maybe hammerless, he could have used colored chalk, otherwise I don't see a problem with his climbing as long as a wildlife agency hadn't considered the area a concern.

Jo Holloway · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 20

Some years ago, a photographer named Michael Fatali decided to capture the sunset-washed glow of Delicate Arch by lighting a fire underneath the feature, ostensibly to demonstrate lighting techniques to his students. This was STUPID. Not only did his stunt not even approach the glow from the setting sun, but it also resulted in oily char-marks that were partially removed by hand using dental picks. He'd already pulled this stunt at Canyonlands National Park.

photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe…

Fatali was fined, banned from both parks for two years, and had the privilege of paying for the man-hours required to restore this landform. Perhaps Mr. Potter will share this fate for his arrogant little maneuver, assuming of course that he did use white chalk.

Doug Argyle · · Green Mountain Falls, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 576

I was curious to see if anyone had issues, and if so, what those may be. I myself am not sure what to think about it.

Just stoking the fire for some good debate.

John J. Glime · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 1,160
Mark Nelson wrote:Utah & chalkless - I don't know about that
Meant as a joke, my Colorado partners dip into the chalk before every move so we have the on going joke about chalkorado. Oddly, most of my Utah partners dip into the chalk before most of their moves as well, but it is more fun to make fun of Colorado. I on the other hand am an elitest, I don't use chalk. (this is meant as a joke also, it is true I don't use chalk, but to each his own. Unless you are climbing delicate arch! ha,ha.)
Jo Holloway · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 20

I think ultimately, the issue is that public reaction to Potter repeatedly violating NPS rules for the sake of publicity is reflecting poorly on the climbing community. Not a big deal? Here is an article out of the Salt Lake Tribune.

sltrib.com/ci_3800468

It would be a drag to have Arches closed to all climbing. The irritated superintendant has authority to do that.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

You and my bro - birds of the same feather. I hate you both, I need chalk for the finger stuff.

John J. Glime · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 1,160

Potter said he took great care to leave Delicate Arch undisturbed, and he is unapologetic about undertaking the challenge.
"I am very conscientious about following nature's rules. I respected the arch to the fullest. I did no more than blow a little dust off a few handholds," Potter said. "What has our world come to if we cannot join nature by climbing one of nature's most beautiful features?"

Okay, bullsh!t Dean. I agree with the above, it sounds good. But then what's with all of the cameras, publicity, and Patagonia??? That doesn't sound like being one with the environment to me.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I'd say bring on that superintendent. Let's have him discuss the mgt policy directly attacking clean climbing.

George Bell · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 5,050

Delicate Arch should never have been climbed! Potter did not think of what his stunt could begin. For now every climber in the world is thinking of climbing Delicate Arch. One ascent likely had near zero impact on the arch, but what about 1000? Pulling a rope down from the top 1000 times might cut it in half!

It is not easy to prevent people from climbing Delicate Arch, I would not be surprised if the NPS has to close the entire area near the arch to all people!

What a disaster! I respect Potter for his climbing ability, but he really should have thought before pulling off this stunt, and publicizing it.

Anita Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

Over the course of the last 30 years or so I have made countless pilgrimages to Delicate Arch in all kinds of weather in all seasons. In December my daughter and I visited Delicate Arch after an early morning snowfall had melted away. We were the only people in the park that day. We didn't see other cars and we didn't encounter another soul on our hike up to Delicate Arch. What a special day Tori and I shared! Climbing Delicate Arch and publicizing it, in my opinion, IS raping a sacred structure. Is this a trick only tackled by a testosterone laden lad? I'm not surprised.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I guess I don't see how a climber destroys a piece of sandstone by doing what Dean accomplished (except, I think we are all agreeing as to the use of white chalk on this rock). I don't see the Arch as being sacred, it's just a formation of sandstone. The environment is going to take that arch out, then what are the complaints going to be about? The wind & rain "raped" the Arch?

I'd agree, he's directly addressing the park in a public manner; let's do it. I feel this goes to the same issue as Cave Rock & it's the same issue the City of Denver uses: attacking climbers for climbing on rock because other people see them climbing, and doing so without any justification for encroaching on a wildlife habitat of concern. Where's my portaledge? Maybe it's time for a sit in.

Anita Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

OK lets all jump on Delicate Arch and see how longs it takes to crumble.

Tea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 223

I don't think he has destroyed anything...except maybe the fragile balance between land managers (nps) and climbers right to "use" their public lands. Only time will tell what impact his ascent has made.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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