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Splitter gear Cams

Original Post
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I'm looking for some input on Splitter cams. It kinda seems like they went out of business, but I'm not sure. I've read the limited reviews and I've come up with the following conclusions:
-Most people don't like them
-There is a large learning curve
-if you stick with the curve you probably will like them
-they aren't exactly the best-designed cams
-They do have their spot in vertical shallow crack placements.

I'd like to hear more if I could. Most reviews are 4 years old and I think most cams for sale are leftovers. Can anyone give me more ideas? And please don't fill up the thread with "Splitter gear sucks!" I'm looking for more constructive info. Thanks

SirVato SirVato · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 405

I think Trango picked up the design. I was at the Boulder Mtn Sports the other day playing with them. They seem OK. Just OK, I didn't really like the action, and it seems that they will be really easy to over-cam and get stuck. You can only close the lobes so much before they contact each other then, they won't go ANY further. The head width is actually quite a bit more narrow than all the other units, so they should do well in even-sided pin scars (is there such a thing?) I haven't actually placed one though so these are just my first impressions.

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,350

The five smallest Trango FlexCams use the Splitter 4Cam design with direct-offset cams.

I have the #2, #3, and #4 (equivalent to the green, yellow, and red Aliens). These FlexCams aren't really any narrower than the Aliens, and the direct-offset cams don't place as well in irregular cracks.

The direct-offset cams are also more prone to over-camming, since once you hit max compression, the cam lobes touch and you can't compress them any more to get them out.

I used them for several months, then went out and bought a set of hybrid Aliens. The FlexCams are now sitting in my closet.

SirVato SirVato · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 405

Hybrid Aliens make me all warm and fuzzy when I place 'em! In fact all my Aliens do!! I used the hybrids on the 1st pitch of Tagger the other day. Definitely helped take the spice out of it!!!

Brejcha · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 450

Trango bought out Splitter and made the FlexCams with the 4-cam design.

About the 2-lobe cams: I dig 'em but my partners don't. I own the 2 smallest sizes (purple and green) and the red one. The purple is roughly the same size as a blue Alien and the green a green Alien, and the red is about a .75 Camalot. I occasionally use the purple for free climbing and it's saved my ass a couple times; I use the green all the time. They will fit in SUPER shallow cracks and won't walk. They hold in places you wouldn't look at twice for a nut or a normal cam.

I really dig 'em for aiding. I've had good luck with them in pin scars and other funky placements. The red one is good for big pin scars where other cam placements would be too shallow and you'd be doing a two-lobe placement anyway, but the other two lobes would be sticking way out.

Anyway-- if you're going to be aiding, some of the smaller 2-cams are badass, but if you're free climbing I'd just get some Aliens.

As for the FlexCams, I get bad juju from them for some reason and don't like the way they "handle" or look.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Thanks!! very informative...just what I was looking for..thanks again!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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